How to Water Houseplants the RIGHT way! (+Watering Tips)

person's arms lifting a green watering can and watering a dracaena on a window ledge

Picture this: you’re standing in your living room, admiring your beloved collection of houseplants. Some are thriving, their leaves a vibrant green, while others look a bit droopy and sad. You wonder, “Am I watering them too much? Or not enough?”

As someone who’s been there, I know how frustrating it can be to watch your plants wilt despite your best efforts. But here’s the good news: with a little knowledge and some practical tips, you can become a watering pro and keep your indoor jungle looking lush and healthy.

In this article, we’ll dive deep into the world of watering houseplants. We’ll explore the factors that affect your plants’ water needs, learn how to recognize the signs of overwatering and underwatering, and discover the best techniques for giving your plants the hydration they crave.

So, here’s everything you need to know to become a watering expert!

Understanding Your Houseplants’ Water Needs

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of watering techniques, let’s take a step back and understand what factors influence your houseplants’ water requirements. After all, you wouldn’t give a cactus the same amount of water as a fern, right?

Here’s the rewritten section with more explanation for each bullet point:

Factors Affecting Water Requirements

Several key factors come into play when determining how much water your houseplants need:

  • Plant type: Different plant species have varying water needs. Succulents and cacti are adapted to arid environments, storing water in their fleshy leaves and stems, so they require less frequent watering. On the other hand, tropical plants such as ferns and calatheas originate from humid, wet regions of the world and prefer consistently moist soil to thrive.

If you want the shortcut on looking up your plants’ watering needs, I have a special deal for my readers for the Indoor Plant Guide A-Z. This is a comprehensive care guide to over 130+ popular houseplants. So you can cut the endless google searches and have everything you need to know for your houseplants all in one spot.

  • Pot size and material: The size of the pot affects how quickly the soil dries out. Smaller pots have less soil volume, causing them to dry out faster than a larger pot. Additionally, the pot material plays a role. Porous materials like terracotta allow for better air circulation and faster water evaporation, requiring more frequent watering compared to non-porous materials like plastic or glazed ceramic.
  • Root-to-soil ratio: Root-to-soil ratio, or basically the size of your pot can have an effect on your frequency of watering as well. Small plants in small pots use a typical amount of water, but large plants (with lots of roots) in small pots will dry out much faster than the average houseplant. This is why if your plant’s soil starts to dry out quickly, it is a sign that you need to repot your plant into a larger pot. (aka, increase the amount of soil, so you have a more balanced root-to-soil ratio.
  • Soil type: Well-draining potting soil is essential for most houseplants to prevent waterlogging and root rot. A good potting mix should contain ingredients like perlite, vermiculite, or bark chips to improve drainage and aeration.
  • Light and temperature: Plants in brighter, warmer environments tend to dry out faster due to increased transpiration (water loss through leaves) and evaporation from the soil surface. Those in cooler, lower-light conditions will require less frequent watering.
  • Humidity: High humidity levels in the air can slow down water evaporation from the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Conversely, low humidity environments may cause the soil to dry out more quickly.

By considering these factors, you can start to develop a better understanding of your houseplants’ unique water needs.

Signs of Underwatering and Overwatering

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to miss the mark when it comes to watering. Here are some telltale signs that your indoor plants are crying out for help:

Underwatering:

  • Drooping or wilting leaves
  • Crispy, brown leaf edges
  • Dry, hard soil that pulls away from the pot’s edges
  • Slow growth or leaf drop

Overwatering:

  • Yellow, mushy, or falling leaves
  • Moldy or smelly soil
  • Fungus gnats flying around the plant
  • Brown, soft, or rotting roots

Signs of overwatering and underwatering can sometimes look similar, but a telltale sign to look at is if the yellowing leaf is fat and mushy, like it has water inside, or if it is becoming dry and crinkly like all the water in the leaf is gone.

If you spot any of these signs, don’t panic! In most cases, adjusting your watering routine and letting the soil dry out a bit can help your plants bounce back.

Now that you have a better grasp on the factors affecting your houseplants’ water needs and the signs of watering woes, let’s explore when and how to water your green friends for optimal health and happiness.

When to Water Your Houseplants

Picture this: it’s a sunny Saturday morning, and you’re standing in front of your beloved houseplants, watering can in hand. But wait! Before you start dousing your leafy friends, let’s talk about when to water them.

Checking Soil Moisture Levels

The most foolproof way to determine if your plants need water is to check the soil moisture levels. Sometimes you can tell by simply looking at the top of the soil, but more often than not, the top of the soil is going to be deceiving. This is because with gravity, water will naturally sink to the bottom of your pot. So, instead of just looking at the soil, here are a few methods you can use to determine if your soil is wet or dry:

The Finger Test

Stick your finger into the soil. Now, I don’t mean just feel the top of the soil. I mean stick your finger as deep as you can down into the soil. This will allow you to usually feel a few inches down into the soil (depending on the size of your pot), and you should be able to feel if there is still moisture. Then you will be able to tell if your plant’s soil is dry all the way through, or if there is still moisture down below the surface of the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, hold off for a day or two. This method works great for any medium or small plant you have, but it isn’t as effective when you are trying to guage the moisture level in large pots.

placing finger into houseplant soil.

The Weight Test

The weight test: The second way to tell how moist or dry your plant’s soil has become is to pick up your plant and weigh it in your hands. After lifting your plant a few times, you will begin to be able to feel if your plant is heavier than usual, or if it is lighter than usual. A light pot means that your soil is dry. A heavy pot, on the other hand, means that there is still some water in your soil that is weighing it down. This method also works best for medium to small pots, but it can be difficult to constantly be lifting one of your larger houseplants.

hand lifting scindapsus plant in macrame hanger

The Chopstick Method

Insert a wooden chopstick or skewer into the soil, then remove it. If it comes out clean and dry, your plant is thirsty. If it’s covered in damp soil, wait a bit longer.

Moisture Meters

These handy tools measure soil moisture levels with a simple probe, taking the guesswork out of watering. Soil moisture meters are pretty cheap and can be purchased at any major garden center, or here’s my personal favorite soil moisture meter!

To use a soil moisture meter, you simply place the probe into the soil (making sure that you push it down enough that it gets an accurate reading of the bottom of the pot), wait a few minutes for it to take an accurate reading,then, just like magic, it will tell you how dry, moist, or wet your soil is! That’s all there is to it!

soil moisture meter reading "moist" in houseplant soil

And now, to state this once again as the ULTIMATE GAME-CHANGER for all plant parents…

This moisture meter is the #1 tool that I recommend to all plant parents. Why? Because it works! (And I also love that it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to purchase, either!)

Remember, the goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Overwatering can be just as harmful as underwatering!

Establishing a Watering Schedule

Once you’ve got a handle on your plants’ moisture needs, it’s time to create a watering schedule. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

  • Water in the morning: This gives your plants plenty of time to absorb the water before the heat of the day sets in.
  • Be consistent: Try to water your plants on the same days each week, adjusting as needed based on soil moisture levels.
  • Group plants with similar needs: Place plants with comparable watering requirements together to make your watering routine more efficient.

I like to keep a simple calendar reminder on my phone to help me stay on track with my watering schedule. It’s a small step that makes a big difference in keeping my plants happy and healthy!

When to Adjust Your Watering Schedule

As the seasons change and your plants grow, their watering needs may shift. Here are a few scenarios where you might need to adjust your watering routine:

  • Seasonal changes: Plants typically require less water in the cooler months (in the fall and winter months) when they’re not actively growing. Conversely, they may need more frequent watering during the hot, bright summer months.
  • Changes in light: If you move your plants to a brighter or dimmer spot, their water needs may change accordingly.
  • Plant growth: As your plants grow larger, they’ll likely require more water to sustain their increased size.

It’s a good idea to test your plants’ moisture levels each time you water. By staying attuned to your plants’ needs and making small adjustments to your watering schedule as necessary, you’ll be able to keep your plants watered correctly.

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How to Water Houseplants Properly

Alright, you’ve figured out when to water your plants, but now you might be wondering, “How do I actually do it?” Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered! Let’s explore the best ways to keep your plants perfectly hydrated.

Are you a visual learner? Want to watch different watering techniques? Check out my youtube video below!

Choosing the Right Water Source

Not all water is created equal when it comes to your houseplants. Here are some tips for selecting the best water source:

  • Rain water or filtered water: These are the ideal choices, as they’re free from harmful chemicals and minerals that can build up in the soil over time.
  • Tap water: If you must use tap water, let it sit out for 24 hours before watering to allow any chlorine to evaporate.
  • Avoid softened water: Softened water contains salt, which can harm your plants in the long run.
  • Room temperature is best: Avoid giving your indoor plants water that is too hot or too cold. Room temperature (or around there) is best.

I typically water my plants with filtered water just because with all the kids I have around the house, if I leave a jug of tap water out to evaporate, it WILL get knocked over within 24 hours! Haha! So I have my plants’ water filter under my sink, ready to go whenever it’s watering time. So make sure that you find the type of water source that works for you and your plants!

You can check out my post on 5 Signs your Plants need Filtered Water if you’re unsure if you need to upgrade your tap water.

You can also check out my video where I tested my own water filter to see if it really removed the chemicals or not…

What is the Best Method to Water Houseplants?

But now it’s time for knowing exactly HOW to water. Here are the two best methods of watering:

  1. The Soak and Drain Method (also known as Bottom-Watering): Place your plant’s pot on a tray or basin and slowly pour water into the tray, allowing the soil to absorb the water from the bottom up. Stop adding water once the soil surface is moist. Let the plant sit and soak for twenty minutes to a few hours, depending on the size of the pot, then discard any remaining water in the tray.
  2. The Top Watering Method: Use a watering can with a narrow spout to slowly pour water over the top of the soil, starting around the edge of the pot and working your way inward. Keep watering until you see water beginning to drain from the bottom of the pot.

A lot of plant parents ask if they should be top watering or bottom watering their plants. And I know that bottom watering does have its benefits, but top watering is also very convenient. And top watering is how we water all of our outdoor plants, right?! So let me just say, the best way to water your houseplants is to simply make sure that you water your plant evenly, you add enough water to thoroughly soak the root ball, and you drain off any excess water (so you don’t have root rot issues!). As long as you follow these general rules, than either top or bottom watering can work for you. If you are still unsure, though, check out my video on Should you Top or Bottom Water your Plants?

two snake plants in pots sitting in tupperware full of water. hand lifting one snake plant out to drain excess water.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to water slowly and evenly, giving the soil time to absorb the moisture. And don’t forget to empty any excess water from the saucer or tray to prevent root rot!

Avoiding Common Watering Mistakes

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make mistakes when watering your houseplants. Here are a few common pitfalls to avoid:

  • Overwatering: As tempting as it may be to give your plants a little extra love, resist the urge to water too frequently. Stick to your watering schedule and always check the soil moisture levels before watering.
  • Underwatering: On the flip side, don’t let your plants go too long without water (Or avoid only giving them little water sips at a time). If you notice drooping leaves or dry soil, it’s time to give them a good drink.
  • Watering at night: Avoid watering your plants in the evening, as the cooler temperatures and lack of evaporation can lead to fungal growth and root rot.

By choosing the right water source, avoiding improper watering techniques, and steering clear of common mistakes, you’ll be well on your way to becoming an indoor plant expert!

Caring for Houseplants After Watering

Congratulations, you’ve successfully watered your houseplants! But wait, there’s more! Proper post-watering care is just as crucial as the watering itself. Let’s dive into how to keep your plants thriving after they’ve had a good drink.

Allowing Proper Drainage

Picture this: you’ve just given your beloved fiddle leaf fig a thorough watering, but you notice water pooling in the saucer beneath the pot. What do you do?

The answer is simple: remove the extra water. Allowing your plants to sit in standing water can lead to a host of problems, including root rot and fungal growth. Here’s what you can do:

  • Use pots with drainage holes to allow excess water to escape.
  • Empty saucers or trays beneath your pots after watering.
  • If your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, use a moisture meter to avoid overwatering, or consider repotting your plant into a container with proper drainage.

I once had a beautiful dracaena that I didn’t notice the water pooling between the nursery pot (with drainage holes) and the designer pot (with no drainage holes). By the time I noticed, the roots had started to rot, and I had to perform some serious plant surgery to save it. Learn from my mistake and always prioritize proper drainage!

Monitoring for Pests and Diseases

While proper watering is essential for healthy houseplants, it can also create an ideal environment for pests and diseases to thrive (especially if you tend to keep your plants on the moist side). So after watering, take a moment to inspect your plants for any signs of trouble:

  • Fungus gnats: These tiny flying insects love damp soil. If you notice them buzzing around your plants, let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings and consider only bottom-watering your plants for a time. This is the best method to keeping your plants clear of this annoying pest.
  • Mildew or mold: White, powdery spots on leaves or fuzzy growth on the soil surface can indicate a fungal problem. Ensure proper air circulation around your plants and avoid getting water on the leaves when watering.
  • Yellowing or wilting leaves: While these can be signs of overwatering, they can also indicate pest infestations or nutrient deficiencies. Inspect your plants closely and consider treating with a natural insecticide or fertilizer as needed.

By keeping a watchful eye on your plants after watering, you can catch any potential issues early and take action to keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.

Well, there you have it, folks! You’re now equipped with the knowledge and skills to become a true houseplant watering pro. From understanding your plants’ unique needs to mastering the art of the perfect pour, you’ve got this!

Remember, the key to success is to pay attention to your plants. They’ll tell you when they’re thirsty, and they’ll show you when they’re thriving. Trust your instincts, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments as needed.

hand holding dry soil above houseplant in pot

Watering your houseplants may seem like a simple task, but it’s one of the most important aspects of plant care. By taking the time to understand your plants’ needs and develop a consistent watering routine, you’ll be rewarded with a lush, vibrant indoor jungle that brings you joy and tranquility.

Conclusion

So to wrap everything up… if you know what type of plant you own and you know what kind of watering it likes, and then you follow these general guidelines to water the correct way, and if your plant is still dying… Well then you at least know that it isn’t because of water. Try something else. And check out my post on 10 quick tips to keep your indoor plants alive! Or join the Facebook group, Houseplants for Plant Killers and let me know what’s going on! I absolutely love helping people with their plant questions!

Happy digging!

P.S. – For more watering specifics, check out my posts below!

How to Water Air Plants the RIGHT way!

How Often should I water my Succulents?

FAQs

Alright, you’ve made it through the article, and you’re feeling pretty confident about your houseplant watering skills. But wait, what’s that? You still have a few lingering questions? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered! Let’s dive into some of the most common queries about watering houseplants.

How often should I water my houseplants?

As a general rule of thumb, most houseplants prefer to be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. This can range from once a week to once every few weeks, depending on the plant and the conditions in your home.

The best way to determine when to water is to check the soil moisture levels regularly and get to know your specific plants’ individual needs to know if you’re giving them enough water. With time and practice, you’ll develop a sixth sense for when your leafy friends are ready for a drink!

Is tap water safe for watering houseplants?

In most cases, tap water is perfectly fine for watering your houseplants. However, there are a few things to keep in mind:

  • If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit out for 24 hours before watering to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
  • If you have a water softener, the added salts can build up in the soil over time and harm your plants. Consider using rainwater or filtered water instead.
  • Some plants, like carnivorous plants and certain orchids, are more sensitive to the minerals in tap water. For these picky plants, it’s best to use distilled or rainwater.

And I wanted to point out last that if you’re unsure about the quality of your tap water, you can always have it tested or opt for a safer alternative like filtered or rainwater.

What are the signs of overwatering and underwatering?

Overwatering and underwatering are the two most common culprits behind houseplant woes. Here’s how to spot the signs:

Overwatering:

  • Yellow, mushy, or falling leaves
  • Moldy or smelly soil
  • Fungus gnats flying around the plant
  • Brown, soft, or rotting roots

Underwatering:

  • Drooping or wilting leaves
  • Crispy, brown leaf edges
  • Dry, hard soil that pulls away from the pot’s edges
  • Slow growth or leaf drop

What does it mean to water thoroughly?

This is a phrase that plant people LOVE to throw around and it can make beginner plant parents confused… What does it mean to water a plant thoroughly?! But all we are saying is to water around all sides of the pot, with a large enough amount of water to soak into the entire rootball (from top to bottom). Then as long as you have good drainage, your house plants should drain off any extra water and you will be left with the perfectly watered plant!

watering can spout adding water to ivy plant sitting in sink

If you notice any of these signs, don’t panic! Adjust your watering routine accordingly and give your plant some time to recover. With a little TLC, most houseplants are remarkably resilient and can bounce back from the brink of disaster.

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The 5 Signs your Plants Need Filtered Water

Do you REALLY need filtered water for your plants? I know there is a huge controversy about benefits vs costs, but after doing some research (… a LOT of research…), I’ve found that yes, effects can be small. But small things add up. 

A favorite podcaster of mine always stresses this when he points out that if you had a penny that doubled every day for only 30 days, by the end of the month you would have over 5 MILLION dollars! Just from a single penny! (Rob Dial, The Mindset Mentor)

So when I think about watering my plants, I think about how many drops I am giving them every day, every week, every year. It really adds up! And that’s why I use filtered water.

But the decision is ultimately up to you. I’m just here to point out the 5 signs that your plants might need filtered water. 

*Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me keep providing this information to all of you. But, I only promote products that I have personally tried and love!*

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Sign #1 – Brown leaf tips, or brown, dying spots

Brown leaf tips and brown, dying (necrotic) spots can be caused by a few different factors, but they have both been linked to problems with water contamination. Now, this isn’t saying that your tap water is dangerous to drink… instead, it’s just dangerous to some of your more sensitive plants.

These two contaminants are chlorine, a chemical used to kill harmful bacteria in water, and flouride, a chemical that is actually added to water as it helps people have healthier teeth.

An excess of chlorine is what contributes to brown leaf tips in sensitive plants. These plants include: palms, spider plants, dracaena, azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc.

An excess of fluoride, however, causes necrotic spots along leaf edges. These fluoride-sensitive plants include those listed above as well as ti plants, prayer plants, and calatheas.

So if your plants are showing either of these symptoms, then it’s a sign you need filtered water.

Browning leaf tips and dying necrotic spots on plant leaves

Sign #2 – It’s hot outside

You might not know this, but the concentration of chemicals in your drinking water will actually change with the weather. This is because most water treatment plants are outdoors, and the variation in temperatures can cause different levels of bacterial and microbial growth.

It has been seen that as it gets hotter, water treatment plants need to use more chlorine than usual to kill these microbes. So if it’s getting hot outside, then not only will your plants need more water, but they will also have a higher chance of absorbing too much chlorine.

https://medium.com/@HomeWaterPros/chlorine-levels-in-drinking-water-reach-their-peak-during-the-end-of-summer-77e4f8b72358

a picture of a chart containing the cvolatile contaminants found in tap water

Sign #3 – Your Soil is Turning White

A common question that a lot of people ask me is… “What is that white stuff on my soil? And how do I get rid of it?” The short answer is, this is a mineral build-up, and you need to leach it from the soil.

The problem with this short answer, though, is that this mineral build-up is most commonly caused by sodium carbonate… a chemical used to “soften” water (which usually makes it taste better when we drink it). 

These salts, while they might not be too harmful to us, can eventually lead to some major problems for our plants, especially if the soil is never replaced or leached. (After all, there’s a reason why the Salt Flats don’t have a lot of vegetation y’all!)

So, I recommend that people leach out their pots… (running a bunch of water through the soil to flush out any harmful chemicals or built-up minerals). This will be harder for those of you with garden plants, but even with indoor plants, it can take a lot of time and a warm location where the soil can dry.

The one problem, though, is how useful is leaching if you’re using the same water that contains the same amounts of sodium as before? So you see how it really is a short-term solution that doesn’t change the root of the problem.

An overhead shot of a plant with soil that is starting to turn white

Sign #4 – Your Plant isn’t Growing as Big

This sign is mainly for outdoor and garden plants, but it can also apply to indoor plants.

To dive into the “why” of this sign, we need to remember that water treatment plants have the goal to kill microbes that are living in our water. In fact, it is the water treatment plants that help keep us safe from cholera, E. coli, and Giardia. So they add chlorine, trihalomethanes (TTHM), and haloacetic acids (HAA5) to our water to kill any living microbes.

The problem with this, though, is that it kills beneficial microbes as well.

These beneficial microbes (like mycorrhizae) help break down nutrients in the soil so they can be absorbed by the plant roots. This is one reason why most quality fertilizers contain beneficial microbes.

So if your plants aren’t growing as fast, it could be because the chemicals in your water are killing these beneficial microbes, leaving your plants on their own.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/chlorine-toxicity

a Picture of someone holding a plant in a woven pot

Sign #5 – You’re Not on Well Water

Well water can actually be better for plants than city water because it usually has fewer disinfecting chemicals, less or no fluoride, and higher mineral (a.k.a. nutrient) concentrations. But if you’re on “city” water, then you might like it more, but your plants will get the short end of the stick!

A picture of water coming out of a tree

Those are the 5 signs that your plants need filtered water.

And if you’re now thinking you need a filter, I personally use and love this water filter system from GrowMax Water. I chose this one because I can use it for my indoor plants all winter (when it’s cold outside!), and then I can bring it outdoors in the summer to use for my garden!

It’s super light and connects to both under my sink, and onto my spigot! I just love this little guy!

filter option if your plants need filtered water

If you have any more plant-related questions, feel free to comment below or shoot me an email. You can also join my Facebook group, “Houseplants for Plant Killers” to receive personalized help and plant tips whenever you need!

Happy Digging!

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3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Repotted succulent

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

Please leave any additional comments or questions below and sign up for my email list to receive even more tips and tricks to help keep your houseplants alive!

Happy Digging!

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A picture ofa succulent and the title how to save succulents that have been overwatered

How to Stop Over Watering your Succulents

I get it. You buy a succulent, you lovingly water it, and then three days later it has died… What went wrong?! Then you discover the ugly truth. You’ve been over watering your succulents! Don’t worry. We’ve all been there. But how exactly do you stop? And how do you keep your little guys alive?! Keep reading, cause I’ll show you exactly how to stop over watering your succulents!

There are a couple of different reasons why your succulent is being over watered. First, it could be because you are simply adding too much water to its pot.

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Reason #1: Using Too Much Water

To fix this, only add small amounts of water each time you are watering.

Sounds simple, right?!

Well, it can actually be super difficult if you’re using a regular watering can to water those tiny little pots.

This is why it’s BEST to water your succulents with one of these!

Someone watering various plants

These succulent watering bottles are designed to give you the ultimate control over how much your succulent is watered. It also has a small nozzle, which positions the water stream to exactly where you want it! No more wet succulent leaves, and no more wet plant shelves!

Reason #2: Not Enough Drainage

The next thing to consider with over watering succulents is how fast your water is draining out of its pot.

In a succulent’s native habitat, water will move quickly into, then out of a plant’s reach. This is done either through the water quickly sinking down through the sandy or rocky soil, or water will escape through evaporation due to the sun’s heat. Either way, the soil does not stay wet for long.

Which means… succulents are not accustomed to having their roots constantly wet. In fact, they’re used to having moderately dry roots.

Because of this, we need to allow the water in our own pots to move down and out of the soil.

To do this, we will need:

  1. Soil that drains well
  2. Pots that drain well

Well-Draining Soil

For well-draining soil, either amend regular soil with sand and perlite (at a rate of 1/3 soil, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 perlite), or consider purchasing a pre-mixed soil, such as this cactus and succulent soil!

Picture of Perfect Plants Succulent soil

Well-Draining Pots

To have well-draining pots, first make sure that your pot’s soil-to-root ratio is correct. (A.k.a., don’t use a large pot for a small succulent). This is extremely important!!!

If your succulent is small, use a small pot.

Also, look for shallow pots. Don’t purchase anything too deep.

Then, make sure that your pots have drainage holes!!!

I can’t stress this enough! Succulents NEED pots with drainage holes!

If you want to group your succulents together, get a pot that is specifically made for grouping succulents. These will be shallow, wide, and have drainage holes. Check out these pots for succulent groupings.

A picture of DeeCoo Succulent Pots

And for pot ideas, check out my post on Indoor Plant Pots. Just make sure you pick out pots that are proportionate to the size of your succulents!!!

So remember, add less water, and improve drainage of your soil and your pots! If you do all of these above steps, you will never over water your succulents again! Let me know if you have any more succulent-related questions in the comments below! And for more succulent tips, check out my post on Succulent Care, or my post, How Often should I Water my Succulent?!

Happy Digging!

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How to Water your Air Plants the RIGHT Way!

How to water air plants cover

Hey everyone! I know that we all LOVE air plants, but how the heck do you water something without any roots or any soil?!?! Well today I’m going to tell you exactly how to water your air plants so they stay happy and thriving!

Now there are two different methods. First is if your air plant is mounted/hot glued/fixed in any way to it’s stand. The second method (which is the preferred method) is for if your air plant is separate and can be removed from its mount, or if the mount is waterproof. So keep reading and use whichever method applies to you! But first, before you learn HOW to water your air plants, you need to make sure you’re using the correct TYPE of water…

If you want overall care tips for your air plant, check out my post here on air plant care!

Want to boost your air plant collection?! You can get some awesome air plants here!

**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with such awesome information!**

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What Kind of Water to Use for Air Plants

Unlike most other houseplants, air plants DON’T like distilled water! If it’s a choice between distilled or tap water, go with tap water every time! The main harm with tap water is its chlorine. But for this, you can simply leave your water out for about 30 minutes to allow the chlorine to dissipate. This should be your easiest choice of water.

To go to the next level with your watering, choose a natural source, such as rain water, pond water, or lake water. While the rain water is what your plant is used to in its natural habitat, spring water, pond water, or lake water can also be extremely good for your air plants because it is usually rich in nutrients. Another alternative to these is if you have an aquarium. Aquarium water can also be highly beneficial to air plants as your air plant can get added nutrients from this water as well.

The only recommendation that I have, however, is if you use one of these water sources that already contains nutrients, then hold off on the fertilizer. If you use both, then it could potentially be too much for your little guy!

Now… on to the exact methods!

How to Water Air Plants Method 1: Fixed to a Mount

If your air plant is fixed to a mount or a stand, then the best way to water your plant will be through misting. This can be tricky though as most people who mist their air plants end up with rotted, dead plants. (Trust me! I know from personal experience!!!)

To correctly mist your air plant, the important thing is to think of it more like a shower than a misting. Spray it with a spray bottle or a misting bottle until the leaves are dripping with water. (I would recommend placing it in a sink or on a towel while you do this).

The next two tips are vital to avoid rotting your plant! These two tips are: turn your plant upside down, and give it good air circulation.

After you mist your plant you should place it upside down for 10-15 minutes to allow any excess water drain out of the plant. This is vital! Air plants aren’t like bromeliads that can keep water cupped in their leaves. If you do this to your air plant, it will most likely die on you. Instead, give it a good shake and place it in a position where all of the excess water can drain out.

How to Water Air Plants Method 1: Fixed to a Mount

This was my first big lesson with air plants. My first tillandsia was glued into a hanging glass globe. Little did I know that while I was spraying it down, all of the excess water was collecting in the bottom of those glued-in rocks, which was cradling the very center of my air plant… And let’s just say, it didn’t appreciate the long-term bath! So please remember to drain any excess water off of your air plant!!!

Next, make sure that your plant has good air circulation while it is drying. Normal indoor air circulation is fine, but if your plants are in glass terrariums, or in some of those glass globes (like my first air plant), then you’ll need to help it out a bit with a light fan. This will help to avoid any rotting from excess moisture.

Once it has finished soaking up all of the water and has completely dried, then you will be good to go! Simply follow this spray, shake, and circulate a couple times each week dependent on the temperature and the amount of indirect sunlight. Then watch your beautiful plant thrive!

How to Water Air Plants Method 2: Removable Air Plant

The soaking method, or the water bath method, is the preferred method of watering and I recommend purchasing your air plants separately from their container for this reason. It will be a lot easier for you and your plant in the long run. However, note that the xeric air plants, (most air plants with fuzzy leaves, such as the tillandsia tectorum, or the tillandsia xerographica) don’t like as much water and will do best with the misting method mentioned above.

How to Water Air Plants Method 2: Removable Air Plant

So what you do for this situation is… once every 7-10 days, fill up a large bowl (or your sink or tub depending on how many air plants you own) with lukewarm water and place your air plants inside. Leave them to soak for several hours. Your goal here is to give your plants a good soak. Let them absorb as much water as they possibly can. I’ve heard of some people leaving their air plants to soak for up to twelve hours!

After they are done soaking, then you NEED to place them upside down on a towel or dish cloth to drain. Let them drain for about 4 hours, or until they are completely dry. If you live in a humid climate, you can also speed up the drying process by placing a fan nearby to increase air circulation.

After the plant is completely dry, then it is ready to place back on its stand and wait anther 7-10 days to water it again. If the tips begin to turn brown, lightly mist your plant a few times during the week, or increase your watering frequency.

How Often Do I Water my Air Plant?

To know how often to water your air plant, you will need to consider several different factors. First, it will help if you know the genus tillandsia that you have. This will help you know if it comes from a humid environment, like south america, or if it comes from a more arid climate, like found in central america. Then, factoring in how much indirect light it is receiving, you can start off with an estimate of whether it would like more frequent or less frequent waterings. A good rule of thumb is to give your air plant small amounts of water. Then, if the tips of the leaves begin to brown, you will know to slightly increase your watering.

I hope this helps! Let’s keep our air plants happy and well-watered (but not rotting!!!) And if you have any questions or comments, feel free to join the Facebook group, Houseplants for Plant Killers or follow me on Youtube! I love hearing from you!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

How Often do Air Plants Need to be Watered?

The frequency of water will change with both the time of year, the indoor humidity levels, and how much light your plant is getting. As a general rule of thumb, however, you should expect to give your air plant a good soak every 7 to 10 days.

Can you Soak Air Plants in Tap Water?

Yes. You can use tap water to soak your air plants. The best practice, though is to fill your bucket of water, then leave it out for at least 15-30 minutes to let the chlorine evaporate out. This will be much healthier for your plant without you sacrificing too much of your time.

Do Air Plants Need Sun?

Yes. They need sunlight. But not all tillandsia species do well with DIRECT sunlight. Instead, they do much better with lots of indirect, bright light. In general, if your plant has a lighter, pale color, then it will do better with more sun. If your plant is more vibrant in color, then it will most likely be fine in lower light or fluorescent light conditions.

How do you Water an Air Plant without Soaking It?

To water an air plant without soaking it, you can use the spray/misting method mentioned above. This will require more frequent watering, but is necessary for plants that are secured to a non-waterproof base. If the spraying is still getting too much water on the plant stand, however, it would be better off to gently remove the air plant and soak once per week as recommended.

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