31 Fuzzy Succulent Plants that make you go “Awww!”

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Hello succulent lovers! If you’re like me, you can never have enough of these adorable plants in your home. And what’s better than a fuzzy succulent? I’m excited to share with you my top 31 favorite fuzzy succulents that will add a unique and cozy touch to your indoor garden. Whether you’re new to succulents or a seasoned collector, there’s a fuzzy plant out there for everyone. So, let’s dive in and explore these irresistible, tender succulents that will make your heart melt!

What are fuzzy succulent plants?

A fuzzy succulent is a type of plant that exhibits hairy or woolly structures on its leaves or stems, which are often used for water retention and protection from environmental stresses. This characteristic is commonly found in plants belonging to the Crassulaceae, Asteraceae, and Malvaceae families. The fuzzy texture of succulents can range from a light fuzz to dense woolly covering, and can serve as an adaptation to various ecological niches, including arid and high-altitude environments.

These specialized hairy or fuzzy leaves can range in texture from a fine down that is nearly invisible to the naked eye, to a more noticeable fuzziness. You’ll find that touching these plants is an absolute delight, and their fuzzy texture adds a unique dimension to your houseplant collection.

General Care Tips for Fuzzy Succulents

Fuzzy succulents generally require well-draining soil, bright but indirect light, and infrequent watering. They can usually tolerate some direct sunlight, but this is usually not quite as much full sun than their non-fuzzy relatives.

It’s important, though, not to overwater them as their fuzzy leaves can trap moisture among the hairs, which can lead to damage on the leaves and possible root rot. So when watering, make sure to add only a little water, or drain out any excess water from the soil through the pot’s drainage hole.

Then, as with most succulents, fertilizing should be done sparingly, if at all. And only in the summer months. Never fertilize your succulents in the winter months when the plant is not actively growing.

One of the biggest things that sets fuzzy succulent care apart from regular succulents is that fuzzy succulents tend to trap dust on their leaves.  Normally this is taken care of outdoors by the wind, but since we typically don’t have high winds indoors, your fuzzy succulents would need to be periodically wiped down with a dry, soft cloth to remove any dust and debris that has gotten stuck on their leaves.

For more succulent care tips, check out my post on Taking Care of Succulents!

*Note: This post may contain affiliate links, which if purchased, I may receive a portion of the profits. This allows me to keep providing awesome information for you!*

1. Kalanchoe tomentosa

Kalanchoe tomentosa, also known as the Panda Plant or Teddy Bear Plant, is a fuzzy succulent that is perfect for plant lovers with furry friends. Its soft, silvery leaves are covered in tiny hairs, giving it a cuddly, teddy bear-like appearance. Not only is it safe for cats, but it also adds a touch of coziness to any space. And, a native of Madagascar, this fun succulent always makes me think of not just a panda bear, but specifically of King Julian from the movie Madagascar! Haha!

Get a Panda Plant!

2. Echeveria Setosa var. Deminuta

Echeveria setosa var. deminuta is a charming succulent with small, fuzzy leaves that resemble tiny sea anemones. This unique plant is known for its rosettes of grayish-green foliage that are covered in fine hairs, adding a touch of softness to its already delicate appearance. Its diminutive size makes it perfect for small spaces or as a feature in a succulent arrangement. It will also easily reward you with a new plant stemming from the sides of each rosette!

Get an Echeveria setosa var. Deminuta!

3. Echeveria Doris Taylor

Echeveria Doris Taylor is a stunning succulent with a soft and fuzzy appearance, reminiscent of lamb’s ear. Its rosettes of thick, powdery blue-green leaves are covered in fine white hairs, giving it a cozy and velvety texture. If it is in a bright, warm climate, this slow-growing plant will bloom in late fall or early winter, producing a tall stalk of delicate peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage. 

​Get an Echeveria Doris Taylor!

4. Crassula lanuginosa var. Pachystemon ‘David’

Crassula lanuginosa var. pachystemon ‘David’ doesn’t look like your typical jade plants. Instead, its thick, almost bonsai-like trunk and densely packed leaves can cascade down the sides of its pot more like a Burro’s tail succulent. Its fuzzy, silver-green foliage forms a neat, compact rosette that contrasts beautifully with its woody stem. This slow-growing plant is perfect for bonsai enthusiasts or as a statement piece in a succulent arrangement.

Get a David Crassula!

5. Echeveria pulvinata x setosa

Echeveria pulvinata x setosa is a stunning hybrid succulent with a velvety, soft texture and a rosette shape that resembles a flower. Its leaves are covered in fine hairs that give it a fuzzy appearance, with colors ranging from blue-green to reddish-brown. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a touch of elegance to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or as a unique gift for plant enthusiasts.

Get an Echeveria pulvinata x setosa!

6. Sempervivum Ciliosum

Sempervivum Ciliosum, with the common name of the Eyelash Houseleek, is a charming succulent with a unique appearance that resembles a tiny, green rose. Its compact rosettes of fleshy, pointed leaves have tiny hairs, or “eyelashes,” that protrude from the tips, adding an extra dimension of texture and visual interest. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers in the summer, making it an excellent addition to any rock garden or succulent arrangement.

Get an Eyelash Houseleek!

7. Crested Echeveria Frosty

Crested Echeveria Frosty is a captivating succulent with a unique and beautiful appearance. Its intricately curved leaves form a rosette shape, which is further accentuated by its crested growth pattern. The frosty blue-green leaves have a powdery texture, adding to its delicate and ethereal appearance. This slow-growing plant blooms in the spring, producing tall stems of peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage, making it an ideal plant for succulent enthusiasts who appreciate rare and distinctive specimens.

Get a Crested Echeveria Frosty!

8. Aeonium Dinner Plate

Aeonium Dinner Plate is a striking succulent with a unique and eye-catching appearance. Its large, flat rosettes of glossy leaves can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, resembling a plate, hence its name. The leaves range in color from green to deep burgundy and have small hairs along the leaf edges. This slow-growing plant produces tall stems of yellow flowers in the summer, making it a perfect addition to any succulent garden or patio where its striking beauty can be admired by all.

Get an Aeonium Dinner Plate!

9. Crassula mesembryanthemoides

Crassula mesembryanthemoides is a charming succulent with a unique and fascinating appearance. Its dense clusters of gray-green, hairy leaves form a dense mat-like structure, making it an excellent ground cover plant. The leaves are triangular and pointed, with a powdery texture that gives them a frosted appearance. This slow-growing plant produces small white or pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a delicate touch to its already intriguing look. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, bringing a touch of beauty and diversity.

Get yourself a Crassula mesembryanthemhttps://www.etsy.com/listing/1430425188/crassula-mesembryanthemoides?gpla=1&gao=1&oides!

10. Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans”

Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans’ is a delightful succulent with a unique and charming appearance. Its thick, green leaves are shaped like little beans and are tightly packed together in rosettes that can grow up to 6 inches in diameter. The leaves have a fleshy texture and a glossy sheen, on their leaf surface, making them look almost plastic-like. Don’t forget to water it though! This slow-growing plant produces delicate white or pink flowers in the summer. This makes it an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, especially for those who appreciate rare and unusual specimens.

Get yourself a Green Bean Crassula!

11. Kalanchoe orgyalis

Kalanchoe orgyalis is one of my favorite succulents. It has a unique appearance with elongated, fuzzy, and copper-colored leaves that look almost like they’re made of velvet. The leaves’ edges have a smooth texture that adds to the plant’s charm. This slow-growing succulent produces clusters of delicate pink flowers that add a pop of color to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, and the fuzziness of the leaves makes it a favorite of mine to touch and admire.

Get a Kalanchoe orgyalis!

12. Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’

Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is a unique and fascinating succulent that I can’t help but love. Its round, green body is covered in tiny white spines that make it look fuzzy and almost soft to the touch. The plant’s spines make it unique and fascinating, and its slow growth rate makes it a perfect choice for indoor gardening. The plant produces large, showy pink flowers that add to its already attractive look. Whether placed on a windowsill or in a terrarium, ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection.

Get yourself a Fuzzy Navel succulent!

13. Cotyledon Tomentosa – Bear Paw

Cotyledon Tomentosa, also known as the Bear’s Paw, is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance resembling the paw of a bear. Its rounded, furry leaves are covered in tiny hairs, and the tips are adorned with sharp, claw-like protrusions. This slow-growing plant produces delicate, tubular flowers in shades of orange or yellow in the summer, adding a touch of color to its already charming appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, especially for those who love animals.

Get yourself a Bear Paw!

14. Crassula brevifolia

Crassula brevifolia is a perfect succulent for an indoor setting. Its round, fuzzy leaves grow in a rosette pattern that adds a unique and charming touch to any room. The plant’s thick leaves have a soft texture that invites you to touch them, and they’re easy to care for, making them a great choice for indoor gardening. This succulent thrives in bright, indirect sunlight and requires infrequent watering. It’s an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection, adding a touch of greenery and coziness to your living space.

Get a Crassula brevifolia!

15. Kalanchoe eriophylla

Kalanchoe eriophylla is a unique and fascinating succulent that can add a charming touch to any indoor space. Its velvety, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that invites you to touch them. The plant is easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for indoor gardening, and it produces beautiful pink showy flowers that add to its already attractive look. This succulent is perfect for adding a pop of color and texture to your indoor succulent collection while keeping your furry friends safe.

Get yourself a Kalanchoe eriophylla!

16. Crassula mesembryanthemoides ‘Tenelli’ 

Crassula mesembryanthemoides Tenelli is an excellent choice for an indoor succulent collection. The plant’s delicate, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that adds warmth to any room. It’s easy to care for and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it a low-maintenance choice for indoor gardening. Its compact size and attractive look make it perfect for tabletops or shelves, adding a touch of greenery and elegance to your indoor space.

Get a Tenelli Crassula!

17. Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks

Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks is a delightful indoor succulent that adds texture and visual interest to any room. Its web-like fuzziness and small rosette-shaped fleshy leaves make it a unique and attractive addition to your indoor garden. This low-maintenance plant thrives in bright light and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it perfect for busy plant parents. Plus, its pet-safe nature ensures that your furry friends won’t be harmed if they decide to give it a nibble.

Get yourself a Cobweb Hens and Chicks!

18. Kalanchoe tomentosa – Variegated Bear Paw

The Variegated Bear Paw kalanchoe is a striking addition to any indoor collection. Its soft, fuzzy leaves are variegated with cream and green, creating a beautiful contrast. Unlike the original Bear Paw Succulent, this variety has more of a trailing growth habit and can be a great choice for hanging baskets. It’s safe for pets and easy to care for, making it a perfect option for any indoor plant lover.

​Grab a Variegated Bear Paw!

19. Senecio haworthii – Woolly Senecio

The Senecio haworthii, also known as the Woolly Senecio or the Woolly Rose, is a soft, fuzzy succulent that adds a playful touch to any indoor space. Unlike its famous cousin, the string of pearls, this plant has fuzzy, grey-green leaves that are irresistible to touch and pet. This makes it a great addition for anyone who loves tactile plants. Plus, this low-maintenance succulent is perfect for busy plant parents looking for a bit of greenery without the hassle!

Get yourself a Woolly senecio!

20. Cephalocereus senilis – Old Man Cactus

Old Man Cactus, with its shaggy white hairs, is a charming addition to any succulent collection. Its soft and fuzzy texture adds a cozy touch to your indoor space. This plant requires minimal care and can tolerate a variety of indoor conditions, making it an easy choice for any level of plant enthusiast. Its unique appearance is sure to bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

Get an Old Man Cactus!

21. Cyanotis somaliensis – Kitten Ears

Kitten Ears, or Cyanotis somaliensis, is a delightful succulent species that boasts a soft and fuzzy texture reminiscent of a soft, furry kitten’s ears. The plant’s delicate green leaves are adorned with tiny white hairs that give it a cozy and inviting appearance. It’s a perfect addition to any indoor garden or plant collection, adding a touch of charm and playfulness.

Get yourself some Kitten Ears!

22. Kalanchoe tomentosa ‘Chocolate soldier’

This succulent is a Chocolate Soldier, a type of Kalanchoe tomentosa. Its fuzzy, chocolate-brown leaves give it a unique appearance that I can’t resist touching. The main difference between the regular panda plant and the Chocolate Soldier plants is the color of the hairs on the leaves. While the original has green and white fuzzy succulent leaves, the Chocolate Soldier leaves have a more distinct brown hair color, which makes the leaves look more like chocolate… yummm!

Get a Chocolate Soldier!

23. Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida – White Chenille Plant

Oh, the White Chenille Plant, also known as Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida, is one of my favorite indoor succulents. The fuzzy leaves are irresistible to touch and the plant’s rosette shape is just adorable. Plus, its fuzzy leaves resemble white hairs, and the rosettes form small clumps that make it look like a cute little snowball. This plant thrives in bright light and is easy to care for, making it perfect for succulent beginners.

Get yourself a White Chenille Plant!

24. Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’

Kalanchoe beharensis, also known as the Felt Bush or Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe, is a unique and fuzzy succulent that is perfect for any indoor plant collection. The leaves are covered in soft, felt-like hairs that make them a pleasure to touch. The silver-green leaves have a scalloped edge and are held on tall, upright stems. Then, with the right care, you could possibly see stalks of delicate pink or white flowers blooming from the head of the plant. This makes it a beautiful addition to any succulent collection!

Get a Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe!

25. Echeveria setosa – Mexican Firecracker

Looking for a striking, low-maintenance succulent to add to your indoor collection? Look no further than Echeveria setosa, also known as the Mexican Firecracker. This beautiful plant boasts a unique fuzzy texture and bright red-orange tips, adding a pop of color to any space.

Grab yourself a Mexican Firecracker!

26. Tradescantia sillamontana

If you’re looking for a succulent with a unique texture, you should check out the Tradescantia sillamontana, also known as Cobweb Spiderwort. This plant’s fuzzy, silver leaves give it an almost velvety appearance. It’s definitely a conversation starter, and I love the way it adds a touch of softness to any indoor succulent garden. Just be aware, this can be a picky succulent to grow indoors as it loves lots of humidity!

Grab yourself a tradescantia sillamontana!

27. Adromischus cristatus – Key Lime Pie Plant

The Adromischus cristatus, also known as the Crinkle leaf plant or Key Lime Pie plant, has a unique crinkly texture to its leaves that almost looks like it’s been scrunched up like paper. The fuzziness of the leaves makes it all the more interesting to touch and care for. Its vibrant green color and wavy shape give it a playful, fun appearance that’s sure to brighten up any room. 

Buy yourself a Key Lime Pie plant!

28. Aeonium smithii

Aeonium smithii, or the Black Rose, is a beautiful succulent with dark, glossy leaves that almost look black. It’s a bit fuzzy to the touch and adds a nice rosette form to your indoor garden. With proper care, this plant can grow tall and produce stunning rosettes of flowers at the top of the stem. It can be grown indoors as well as outdoors in warmer climates, and is a low maintenance plant that will thrive in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. When exposed to more sun, the red pigmentation in its leaves becomes more vibrant, making it a stunning addition to any succulent collection.

Get yourself a Black Rose Aeonium!

29. Echeveria setosa var. Ciliata

Echeveria setosa var. ciliata is a fuzzy, succulent plant with a unique appearance. Its leaves have hair-like growths that give it a distinct texture, and its pale green color adds to its overall beauty. I love the way it looks in a decorative pot or mixed with other succulents in an arrangement!

Get yourself an Echeveria setosa var. ciliata!

30. Crassula barbata

Crassula barbata, also known as the Bearded-leaved Crassula, is a unique succulent with plump, triangular leaves that are a pale green color. The leaves have a slightly fuzzy texture, which makes this plant all the more charming. This Crassula is a native of South Africa, and as such is a slow grower. But it’s definitely worth the wait for its beautiful rose shape and unique texture.

Get a Bearded-leaved Crassula!

31. Echeveria harmsii

Echeveria harmsii is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance. Its leaves are a dusty blue-green color with a soft velvety texture that is so satisfying to touch. The fuzzy leaves have a striking white outline, and the rosette shape makes it perfect for display in a pot or hanging basket.

Get yourself an Echeveria harmsii!

I hope this list of 31 fuzzy succulents for indoors has inspired you to add some texture and variety to your indoor plant collection. Remember to always research the specific care requirements for each plant and provide them with the appropriate environment to thrive. With a little bit of love and attention, these fuzzy succulents can brighten up your home and bring you joy and fuzzy feelings for years to come! 

Happy Digging!

25 Best Low Light Indoor Succulents for Busy Plant Parents

Are you a plant parent with a busy schedule? Do you want to add some greenery to your low light space but don’t have the time to dedicate to high maintenance plants? Look no further. In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the 25 best low light succulents that are perfect for busy people like you. These succulent plants are not only easy to care for, but they also share a lot of the same benefits of other tropical houseplants, such as improving air quality and reducing stress levels. From snake plants to haworthias, this list is compiled to not only bring you some great options to choose from, but to also show you some unique varieties that will make your space stand out! So sit back, relax, and discover which low light succulent is perfect for your space and your lifestyle!

1. Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)

One of the most popular low light succulents for busy plant parents is the snake plant (aka the mother-in-law’s tongue). This high level of popularity is mainly due to the fact that this plant is incredibly resilient and adaptable, making it perfect for those who tend to forget to water. Its long, upright leaves come in a variety of shades and patterns, from dark green to variegated yellow and green, adding a touch of sophistication to any space. Most people use this plant as a type of living sculpture within their spaces due to its tall, vertical shape as well as because it can tolerate very low light levels (just be sure to add lots of well-draining soil and let it dry out a bit in between watering!)

Aside from its attractive appearance, the snake plant is also known for its air-purifying capabilities. It can remove toxins such as benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene from the air, making it a great addition to any home or office. Snake plant is also one of our unique indoor plants due to its ability to release oxygen at night, making it ideal for the bedroom. It has been shown to improve sleep quality and reduce stress levels, making it a perfect companion for busy, overworked individuals, or anyone else looking to de-stress their lives!

If you’re looking for a low maintenance, yet visually stunning plant, look no further than the snake plant. Its durability, air-purifying properties, and therapeutic benefits make it a top choice for any plant parent. Then, for care information about this plant, check out my post on Snake Plant Care!

Get one here!

2. Baby Jade

Another great succulent option for busy plant parents is the Baby Jade. This small succulent, also known as the Crassula ovata ‘Baby Jade’, is easy to care for and can thrive in low light conditions. It is characterized by its small, round leaves that resemble the original jade plant. The main difference is the size of the plant. Like the Jade plant, the Baby Jade can be shaped into a bonsai tree, but its overall size will be much more compact and smaller than the regular Jade. This can be perfect if you’re working with small spaces, or you need something for your office.

Similar to the snake plant, Baby Jade also has air-purifying properties that can promote a healthier environment, as well as doesn’t need a lot of water. This makes it a perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the benefits of having a plant in their space, without having to worry about keeping to a demanding watering schedule.

Get one here!

3. Haworthia cooperi var. Obtusa

If you’re interested in adding more variety to your succulent collection, the Haworthia Windows ‘Obtusa’ is another great option to consider. This unique succulent has translucent window-like areas on its leaves that allow sunlight to enter and reach its inner cells. It is different from other haworthia windows varieties as the leaf tips are more rounded and less angular. Then, when purposefully stressed (with too much light, or low water), then the leaves will turn a beautiful reddish color.

The Haworthia cooperi can also do well in a low light setting becuase its translucent window-like areas on its leaves allow sunlight to enter and reach its inner cells, making it more efficient at capturing light waves. This feature makes it a great option for those who don’t have a lot of natural light in their homes.

So, if you’re looking to add more variety to your succulent collection, Haworthia Windows var. Obtusa is definitely worth considering!

Get one here!

4. Panda Plant Kalanchoe

Another succulent to consider for a low-light house plant is the Panda Plant Kalanchoe, which has thick and fuzzy leaves that is said to resemble the coat of a panda. This Panda Plant, also known as Kalanchoe tomentosa, is native to Madagascar and is perfect for busy plant parents who want to add a touch of whimsy to their collection without high maintenance needs. 

Similar to other succulents, the Panda Plant Kalanchoe does not require a lot of watering, and it thrives in either in bright, indirect light or low light environments. The panda plant can actually get leaf burn if it is in too much hot, direct sunlight. So if you’re looking to add some soft texture to your space, the Panda Plant is definitely worth considering.

Get one here!

5. Purple Heart Tradescantia

Next, let’s take a look at another low light succulent, the Purple Heart Tradescantia.

Purple Heart Tradescantia is a low light succulent that many plant parents adore. Its stunning purple leaves add a pop of color to any indoor space and in time, its long, trailing vines will create an eye-catching effect, especially when planted with other vertical, green plants such as snake plants. This succulent also prefers to be left alone and it can do well in low to bright light conditions.

Just make sure that you do leave it alone. I’ve found that my tradescantia don’t like to be touched (or played with by my cat!) and being handled too much can cause the leaves to turn brown. So if you’re wanting these gorgeous purple leaves, make sure to give it a well-draining soil and pot, let it dry between watering, and then try not to touch it!

This plant also does extremely well with a grow light. So if you have no-light locations, you can have your tradescantia with a little grow light (like this one!) and it will be perfectly happy for you!

Get one here!

6. Ogre Ears aka Gollum Crassula

Moving on to another low light succulent, let’s take a look at Ogre Ears. This unique succulent has thick, fleshy leaves that are shaped like, as you can probably guess from its common name… ogre ears! Its scientific name is Crassula ovata ‘Gollum Jade’, and it doesn’t dissapoint!

Like many succulents, Ogre Ears is low maintenance and prefers well-draining soil and infrequent watering. This plant can thrive in a variety of light conditions, from bright, indirect light down to low light conditions. Ogre Ears is an excellent choice for those looking to add some quirky character to their succulent garden. Its interesting shape and texture make it a standout among other succulents. Plus, it’s a great conversation starter with guests! Oh, and my kids just absolutely love them too! There’s just something about Ogre Ears that always makes me smile 🙂

Get one here!

7. Ponytail Palm

Next up, the Ponytail Palm, (another one of our indoor succulents for low light) is a visually stunning indoor plant that looks fabulous as a specimen plant. The Beaucarnea recurvata, or Ponytail Palm, has leaves that grow in a long, curly pattern that resembles a ponytail, hence the name. The leaves are thick and leathery, which helps the plant retain moisture in dry conditions that have low humidity. The trunk of the Ponytail Palm is also quite unique, with a bulbous base that can store water to help the plant survive periods of drought. This also helps it to require very little attention as it thrives with thorough, infrequent watering.

The only thing that I can add about this beautiful, fun plant, is that you should not get a ponytail palm if you have cats in your home. In my experience, cats LOVE to chew on this plant. This transforms it from a gorgeous curly head of leaves to a rather unsightly firecracker top. I actually had to re-home mine because of my cats (after several failed attempts at cat deterrents). But don’t worry, my aunt is loving her new ponytail palm tree, and she’s gotten it looking gorgeous again! Haha!

Get one here!

8. Window Haworthia

Like the Ponytail Palm, the Window Haworthia is a beautiful succulent that is also a relatively low maintenance plant. It can survive in a variety of soil conditions and requires infrequent watering. The Windows Haworthia species is also a type of haworthia that has translucent leaves. These “windows” on the leaves can capture more light than their solid-leaf haworthia siblings. This makes it the perfect choice for a location that has less light, and it can sometimes even  prefer a bit of shade over a sunny spot. For more care information, check out my post, Haworthia plant care!

Get one here!

9. ZZ Plant

The ZZ plant is a versatile succulent that is perfect for busy plant parents. Not only can it tolerate low light conditions, but it’s also drought-tolerant and can go weeks without being watered, trust me. I seriously neglect mine. (Sorry little ZeeZee!) However, this just proves that it is a great choice for those who may forget to water their plants regularly, or those who have a busy schedule.

The reason the ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, can do so well with little water is because of its root system that contains little bulbs that store water. So they can do well with thorough watering to replenish the bulbs’ water, then periods of drought.

This, plus the fact that ZZ plants are notoriously easy to propagate from leaf and stem cuttings, and you definitely have a winner on your hands!

Get one here!

10. Burro’s Tail

The Burro’s Tail succulent, also called a donkey’s tail, is a unique and beautiful plant that is perfect for busy plant parents. With its cascading stems that can grow up to three feet long, the Burro’s Tail is a favorite among succulent enthusiasts. This hardy little plant is incredibly low maintenance, requiring only occasional watering and minimal attention.

One thing to keep in mind with the Burro’s Tail is that it prefers bright indirect light to keep the short, stubby leaves. While it can handle some low light conditions, it won’t thrive in complete darkness and in a lower light level, it will tend to have some stretching between the leaf joints.

Another thing to note is that the leaves are delicate and can easily fall off if the plant is bumped or moved too much. This means that it needs to go in a place that has little traffic where it could be bumped or brushed.

So, even though this indoor succulent can be a bit of a diva, it’s definitely a succulent that looks incredible when it gets what it wants… (Is anyone else thinking of the song Prima Donna here?! :D)

Get one here!

11. Zebra Plant

The Zebra Plant, also known as Haworthia fasciata, is a charming succulent that is easy to care for and its striped leaves are absolutely stunning! Native to South Africa, the Zebra Plant prefers bright, indirect light but can also tolerate low light conditions. The only comment I can make here is that when given bright light, such as in a south-facing window, it will stay short and compact and will require more watering. But in low-light environments, slow down on the water, and also expect stretching. The leaves will start getting taller with fewer stripes, but even with the stretching, your zebra cactus will still look great.

For more information on how to care for this plant, check out my post on Zebra Plant Care.

Get one here!

12. Jade Plant

The Jade Plant, also known as the Crassula Ovata, is a popular choice among succulent enthusiasts. With its small, shiny, round leaves, it adds a touch of elegance to any space. But what makes it truly remarkable is its resilience.

Like most other succulents, the Jade plant can do well with infrequent watering since it stores water in both its stem and leaves. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so it’s essential to let the soil dry out completely between watering sessions, especially when it is in lower light conditions. But with proper care, the Jade Plant can grow up to six feet tall and live for decades. This makes it one of the best succulents to bring home!

Get one here!

13. Christmas Cactus & Thanksgiving Cactus

Speaking of hardy succulents, the Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are must-haves for any busy plant parent. These flowering plants are perfect for those who want to add some color to their low-light space. While both plants belong to the same genus, they differ in their blooming season. The Christmas Cactus blooms in December, while the Thanksgiving Cactus blooms in November, although forced blooming can cause your cactus to have flowers at any time of the year. This is why some people simply refer to both of these species as holiday cacti.

These cacti do like a bit more moisture than other succulents, since they are originally from tropical regions that have a lot of humidity. This moisture is especially vital during blooming time, since the blooms can drop if the plant gets too dry. The best method here is to water them thoroughly and let the soil drain before putting them back in their saucer. For more information on caring for your cactus, check out my post on Christmas Cactus Plant Care, or if you’re having issues with your holiday cactus, check out my post on troubleshooting problems with Christmas Cactus.

Get one here!

14. String of Pearls

The String of Pearls succulent is a unique and eye-catching plant that is perfect for those who love to add a touch of whimsy to their indoor garden. This low-light succulent is known for its slender, trailing stems that are adorned with small, round leaves that resemble pearls. This makes it perfect for hanging planters, with trailing stems that can grow up to three feet long.

Like many succulents, String of Pearls is relatively low-maintenance and prefers indirect light and well-draining soil. However, it does require a little more attention when it comes to watering. These cacti like to be kept moist, but not too wet. Be sure to water them thoroughly and let the soil drain before putting them back in their saucer. If you are worried about keeping the moisture consistent, then I would recommend buying a soil moisture meter. This will fix ALL of your watering issues!

Get one here!

15. Raven ZZ Plant

Raven ZZ Plant is an exceptional choice if you are looking for a houseplant that will thrive in low light conditions. Its dark purple-green leaves with waxy texture and smooth surface make it an intriguing addition to any corner of your home. This succulent is a natural air purifier, removing toxins from the air and creating a healthier environment. 

Like the original green ZZ plant, the Raven ZZ Plant is also easy to care for and can survive with minimal watering. In low light it can grow pretty slowly, making it very low-maintenance. But when there is new growth, it comes as a beautiful bright green that contrasts starkly against the dark green mature leaves.

If you are a busy plant parent who struggles to find time for plant care, Raven ZZ Plant is the perfect choice for you. Its resilience and low maintenance needs make it a hassle-free addition to your indoor plant collection. 

Get one here!

16. Moonshine Snake Plant

Next on our list is the Moonshine Snake Plant, a perfect choice for busy plant parents due to its resilience and unique features. This low-light succulent has striking silver-green leaves that have a silvery stripe down the center. The plant’s thin, upright leaves are slightly stiff, making it almost impossible to damage or break them. A Moonshine snake plant can grow up to three feet tall, and it doesn’t require much watering, making it perfect for people who are always on the go.

Apart from being easy to take care of, Moonshine snake plants also provide several benefits. They are known for their ability to purify the air, removing toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene, and xylene. Its air-purifying qualities make it an ideal choice for bedrooms and offices.

Get one here!

17. Hoya spp.

Hoya, also known as the wax plant, is a popular choice among plant parents because of its unique foliage and minimal care requirements. Its waxy leaves come in a variety of colors and shapes, from heart-shaped to circular, and can add visual interest to any room. 

With enough light, Hoya can produce small, fragrant flowers that bloom intermittently throughout the year. Its flowers are star-shaped and come in shades of pink, white, and yellow. 

Get one here!

18. Pincushion Cactus

Pincushion Cactus, also known as Mammillaria, is a cactus that is perfect for busy plant parents. It requires minimal care and adds an unusual element to any collection. Pincushion Cactus prefers soil that drains well and should only be watered occasionally. Its unique appearance is due to the small white or yellow flowers that bloom from its spiky stems. 

This small cactus also does well in low-light conditions but it won’t flower as often unless given more light. This doesn’t stop it though from being a cute little cactus to put on your shelf!

Get one here!

19. Haworthia ‘White Ghost’

Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ is a strikingly beautiful low-light succulent that is known for its ghostly appearance. This unique plant has fleshy, translucent leaves with white markings, making it look almost ethereal. It can be grown both indoors or outdoors, but it prefers bright indirect sunlight or low- to medium-light conditions. Like most succulents, Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ does not require frequent watering, and it needs well-draining soil, especially when it is in low light. 

If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, visually stunning addition to your plant collection, Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ is definitely worth considering.

Get one here!

20. Kalanchoe spp.

Kalanchoe is a beautiful and versatile low-light succulent that comes in a variety of colors and shapes. This plant produces clusters of small, vibrant flowers that add a pop of color to any indoor or outdoor space. These flowers can range from whites to yellows, pinks, and even orange. It prefers bright, indirect light but can tolerate lower light conditions as well.

One of the great things about Kalanchoe is how easy it is to care for. It only needs to be watered once a week, and its soil should be well-draining to prevent overwatering. This succulent does well in a range of temperatures and can even thrive in drought-like conditions.

If you’re looking for a low-light succulent with colorful blooms and minimal maintenance, Kalanchoe is a great choice.

Get one here!

21. Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a popular succulent known for its medicinal properties. It’s easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for busy plant parents. Most people believe that aloe vera needs a lot of bright, full sun, but it actually does better in partial shade. If given too much light (especially when it is in a pot and doesn’t have the cooling effect of being planted in the ground), the leaves can turn a blue-ish color. When this happens, you know that your plant is stressed and it is best if you move it into a lower-light spot before the leaf tips turn brown. Don’t confuse this with a dark green color, though, which is a sign of overwatering!

In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the aloe vera plant has been used for centuries for its healing properties. The gel inside its leaves can be applied topically to soothe burns, reduce inflammation, and promote healing. It’s also known to purify the air of harmful pollutants, making it a great addition to any indoor space.

If you’re looking for a low-light succulent that’s not only beautiful but also has proven health benefits, Aloe Vera is an excellent choice.

Get one here!

22. String of Hearts

Another stunning low-light succulent option is the String of Hearts. This type of Hoya is a delicate and beautiful plant that features cascading vines of small heart-shaped leaves, creating a charming and whimsical look. It’s a great choice for hanging baskets or trailing over bookshelves or windowsills.

But the String of Hearts isn’t just pretty to look at – it also has air-purifying properties that make it a healthy addition to any space. Plus, it’s a low-maintenance plant that’s easy to care for, making it perfect for busy plant parents.

If you’re a fan of unique and eye-catching succulents, the String of Hearts is definitely worth considering. Just make sure that when you purchase a String of Hearts, you don’t start with a single heart leaf, since the plant needs a section of the stem in order to propagate and grow further. So make sure you get more than just a single leaf!

Get one here!

23. Crown of Thorns

The Crown of Thorns succulent is a unique and beautiful addition to any collection. With its thick stem and small green leaves, this plant is a showstopper. But what sets it apart from others is its small, bright flowers that bloom in clusters. 

Be aware, though that this plant does have sharp thorns so it could be dangerous being placed in high-traffic areas or around small children. However, this plant could be good if you have pets that generally mess with your plants, since they will leave this tough little guy alone.

Get one here!

24. Baby Toes Fenestraria

The Baby Toes Fenestraria is a perfect choice for those who want a unique and fascinating plant that can thrive in low light conditions. Its plump and window-like leaves create a striking visual appeal that will capture anyone’s attention. To me, it reminds me of a mix between the windows haworthia and the ogre ears!

So if you’re looking for something that is extremely unique, then get yourself a Baby Toes!

Get one here!

25. Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’

If you’re already a fan of succulents and are looking for a low light option, the Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ is an excellent choice to consider. This unique plant boasts a rosette of plump green leaves that have transparent tips, providing an eye-catching and mesmerizing appearance. 

The Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ is easy to care for, making it an excellent option for busy plant parents who still want to add some personality to their living space. This succulent actually prefers medium to low light conditions, making it an ideal choice for those who don’t have access to bright, direct sunlight.

Adding the Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ to your plant collection allows you to enjoy the unique beauty of this plant and adds diversity to your space. Its distinct aesthetic adds an element of fascination that will surely capture the attention of anyone who enters your home.

Get one here!

In short, low-light succulents are the perfect addition to any busy plant parent’s home. With a variety of options, from the snake plant, to the aloe plant, to the haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’, there is a plant for every taste and style. Not only do these plants add a touch of green to your space, but they also have numerous benefits for your health and well-being. So why not add some low light succulents to your home and enjoy the benefits for years to come?!

If you need any care information, check out my post on Succulent Care!

How to Choose the Best Pots for Succulents (+5 Faves)

Have you been eyeing a new succulent lately? Or maybe you have a growing collection and just need a new pot? Whether you’re a beginner or a succulent expert, we all need to have one thing right in our succulent care. And that is… we need to choose the right pot!

So what are the best pots for succulents? Today I’m going to tell you exactly what works and what doesn’t work for succulent pots, as well as give you some recommendations of my personal faves. Then if you still have questions, check out my “Frequently Asked Questions” section at the bottom of the page. Or just scroll down to see my top 5 best succulent pots!


Let’s dig in!

**Note: This post may contains affiliate links, which helps support this website, at no extra cost to you!**

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What Makes the Best Pots?

There are three keys that you need to look for in the right container. The perfect succulent pot would consider:

  • Drainage
  • Material
  • Size

Let’s address these things one at a time.

#1: Proper Drainage

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but let me stress this fact… succulent pots NEED drainage holes!!!!

Technically, you CAN keep succulents alive in pots without drainage holes by simply adding only small amounts of water at a time. I know, because I’ve done this. But speaking from experience, these succulents never thrive like the succulents that I have in my pots with good drainage. This is because when your pots have proper drainage, you can water your plant as much as you want at each watering and the excess water will simply drain out.

But with pots that have no drainage holes (such as the pretty glass containers they show on Pinterest), these pots will leave you to always be fighting your moisture levels, since one little extra watering could potentially kill your whole plant. Personally, I tend to under-water these succulents to avoid accidentally giving them too much water. But as a result, my succulent plants are never as healthy.

So long story short… get a pot with drainage holes! Just do it!

#2: Pot Material

I would argue that pot material is the least important thing out of the three keys for choosing the best pot for succulents. This is because pot material alone will not kill your succulents.

Terra Cotta/Ceramic Pots

Terracotta pots, or ceramic pots, are definitely the best choice for succulent pots. This is due to the fact that the clay can actually soak up some of the excess moisture, giving your plant a little extra buffer between wet and dry phases. Be careful in the winter, though, as wet ceramic pots (in cold temperatures) can take longer to dry out. This could potentially cause overwatering problems for people who tend to water too much in the winter.

So the best pot material for succulents is terra cotta pots, unless you tend to overwater your plants during the winter. 

Plastic Pots

Plastic pots and plastic containers are also a fine choice for succulents as long as they have sufficient drainage, are heavy enough to not tip over, and are not left outdoors.

Some succulents grow more vertically and can become top heavy. Plastic pots are usually lighter and easily fall over in these situations. To fix this, use sand instead of perlite in your succulent soil mix. This will help to weigh down any tipsy pots!

Next, if you are keeping your succulent outdoors, I do not recommend using plastic pots. This is first because of their higher chances of falling over due to their low weight. Second, plastic pots have a tendency to heat up and dry out faster when exposed to high temperature than clay pots or concrete pots. And third, plastic pots can freeze and deteriorate quickly in very cold climates. This is why I only recommend plastic pots for indoor use.

Metal Pots

Metal pots and metal containers usually have the same heat issue as plastic pots. For this reason, you should keep a metal pot indoors only. If you want to move your succulents outdoors, then a good choice would be a terracotta or concrete pot.

Concrete Pots

Concrete pots are similar to clay pots in that they are both a breathable material. Concrete pots are particularly good in outdoor spaces where they will be durable and protective to your succulents. Just be sure to keep in mind that real concrete pots can be extremely heavy. This is good for areas that are prone to high winds (especially if you live within hurricane areas), since your concrete planters will be sure to protect your plants when the weather gets tough!

#3: Size of Pot

Pot size is, in my opinion, the MOST OVERLOOKED problem of succulent killers. Because if your pot is too big, your succulent will die!!! 

This is more of a water problem than a size problem. If you have a large pot, then you will have lots of soil that will be wet. This soil will have water where the small plant roots can’t reach. This extra, unreachable water will cause too much moisture to sit for too long and will lead to root rot.

Even with proper drainage, you need to make sure that the walls of your pot are only an inch or two bigger than your succulents’ current pot (on all sides). This is why a lot of succulent planters tend to be shallow pots that can fit a few succulents together in an arrangement, but that are still shallow enough that the small roots can still reach the bottom of the pot.

Potting Multiple Succulents Together

If you want to pot multiple succulents together in a succulent arrangement or succulent planter, then your best bet is to buy a large, shallow container. Then, make sure that it is stuffed full of succulents! This will help it have enough roots everywhere so you won’t have those pockets of soil that the roots can’t reach…

Pot Recommendations:

  • All-Around Favorite: D’vine Dev Terracotta Pots
  • Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value!): Brajtt Plant Pots
  • Best for a Group of Succulents: Kimisty 10 Inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl
  • Best for Hanging Succulents: Mkono 8 inch Ceramic Hanging Planter
  • Best for Large Succulents: Aveyas 6/8/10 inch Ceramic Planter Pot

#1: All-Around Favorite – Terracotta Pots by D’vine Dev

These pots are fantastic because they are not only terracotta pots, but they also have drainage holes, the perfect-fit saucer, a drainage net (to keep the soil from coming out), and a “scratch pad” to put under your pot. This ensures that your pot has great drainage, but also that it keeps your surfaces dry and scratch-free! 

These guys have really thought of everything that an indoor succulent grower needs out of a pot. And that’s why it’s my all-around favorite set of succulent pots!

#2: Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value) – Brajtt Succulent Pots

These white, modern pots are perfect for your shorter succulents that don’t have deep root systems. I love that each pot has a small drainage hole, and they come with a functional, stylish bamboo tray to catch any excess water before it stains your window ledge.

And to get 8 pots for only $14.99 (at the time of writing this post)… that’s an AMAZING deal!!!

#3: Best for a Group of Succulents – Kimisty 10 inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl

This planter dish is perfect for succulent arrangements or succulent gardens! It is a glazed ceramic pot with a drainage hole and a plug (to keep your surfaces clean!). It also has a gorgeous, airy stand and white decorative rocks to make your succulent garden go from amateur to professional!

I especially love the size of this planter dish, since most are only about 6” long. With this dish coming in at a solid 10” diameter, (choose the “large” size), it fits a lot of succulents!

#4: Best for Hanging Succulents – Mkono 8 Inch Ceramic Hanging Planter

I searched far and wide for the perfect hanging succulent planters, and this is the one that I finally discovered!

It is a sturdy glazed ceramic pot that comes with a removable drainage plug for excess water. It also comes with a rope and pre-drilled holes, so all you need now is a strong hook! This hanging pot is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

#5: Best For Large Succulents – Aveyas 6/8/10 Inch Ceramic Planter Pot

This sleek, modern pot is perfect for larger succulents! It comes with both a drainage plug and a saucer so you can really control the pot’s drain holes and protect your furniture. This pot also comes with a matching pot stand, a drainage net, and planter filler to add even more drainage to the bottom of your pot!

Your large succulents are definitely going to enjoy being in one of these!

Those are my best pots for succulents! If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions below, or join my plant community on Facebook, Houseplants for Plant Killers!

Then if you’re looking for your next step in your succulent journey, download my free resource, the Succulent Care Guide!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do succulents need deep pots?

Larger succulents need deep pots, but small succulents would die in deep pots. The trick is to plant your succulent in a pot that is only an inch or two deeper than its current pot. This way, the root system will be able to reach the water all the way at the bottom of your pot.

Do succulents grow better in pots?

Most plants grow better when planted in the ground. However, if your environment isn’t hot and dry, then your succulents would actually prefer to be in a pot, where they will have better drainage and can be brought indoors when it gets cold or damp.

Can succulents stay in small pots?

Some small succulent varieties will stay perfectly happy in their small pots. However, some larger succulents will grow to where they don’t have enough room and will eventually need to be repotted into larger pots. This all depends on your type of succulent and its mature size and growth habit.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Yes. If your succulents are in a wide pot, they do better if they are crowded. This lessens the possibility of your pot having drainage issues. It also makes the most beautiful succulent arrangements. So feel free to pack them in!

Do you put succulents in plastic pots?

Yes, you can. Just make sure that your pot still has good drainage. Don’t use plastic pots for outdoor succulents, though, as these tend to heat up, dry out, and fall over more than ceramic pots. For indoor use, however, plastic pots will be just fine.

What is the easiest succulent to grow?

There are a number of succulents that are easier to grow than others. These include haworthias, echeverias, and sedums. For a complete list, check out my post 12 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors.

How often should you water a succulent?

Generally, you should water your succulents once the soil has become dry, but before it begins to pull away from the sides of your pot. This is usually between every five to seven days, depending on the amount of sunlight, temperature, and season. Check out my post “How Often Should I Water my Succulent” for more details.

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3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

Please leave any additional comments or questions below and sign up for my email list to receive even more tips and tricks to help keep your houseplants alive!

Happy Digging!

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How to Stop Over Watering your Succulents

I get it. You buy a succulent, you lovingly water it, and then three days later it has died… What went wrong?! Then you discover the ugly truth. You’ve been over watering your succulents! Don’t worry. We’ve all been there. But how exactly do you stop? And how do you keep your little guys alive?! Keep reading, cause I’ll show you exactly how to stop over watering your succulents!

There are a couple of different reasons why your succulent is being over watered. First, it could be because you are simply adding too much water to its pot.

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Reason #1: Using Too Much Water

To fix this, only add small amounts of water each time you are watering.

Sounds simple, right?!

Well, it can actually be super difficult if you’re using a regular watering can to water those tiny little pots.

This is why it’s BEST to water your succulents with one of these!

These succulent watering bottles are designed to give you the ultimate control over how much your succulent is watered. It also has a small nozzle, which positions the water stream to exactly where you want it! No more wet succulent leaves, and no more wet plant shelves!

Reason #2: Not Enough Drainage

The next thing to consider with over watering succulents is how fast your water is draining out of its pot.

In a succulent’s native habitat, water will move quickly into, then out of a plant’s reach. This is done either through the water quickly sinking down through the sandy or rocky soil, or water will escape through evaporation due to the sun’s heat. Either way, the soil does not stay wet for long.

Which means… succulents are not accustomed to having their roots constantly wet. In fact, they’re used to having moderately dry roots.

Because of this, we need to allow the water in our own pots to move down and out of the soil.

To do this, we will need:

  1. Soil that drains well
  2. Pots that drain well

Well-Draining Soil

For well-draining soil, either amend regular soil with sand and perlite (at a rate of 1/3 soil, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 perlite), or consider purchasing a pre-mixed soil, such as this cactus and succulent soil!

Well-Draining Pots

To have well-draining pots, first make sure that your pot’s soil-to-root ratio is correct. (A.k.a., don’t use a large pot for a small succulent). This is extremely important!!!

If your succulent is small, use a small pot.

Also, look for shallow pots. Don’t purchase anything too deep.

Then, make sure that your pots have drainage holes!!!

I can’t stress this enough! Succulents NEED pots with drainage holes!

If you want to group your succulents together, get a pot that is specifically made for grouping succulents. These will be shallow, wide, and have drainage holes. Check out these pots for succulent groupings.

And for pot ideas, check out my post on Indoor Plant Pots. Just make sure you pick out pots that are proportionate to the size of your succulents!!!

So remember, add less water, and improve drainage of your soil and your pots! If you do all of these above steps, you will never over water your succulents again! Let me know if you have any more succulent-related questions in the comments below! And for more succulent tips, check out my post on Succulent Care, or my post, How Often should I Water my Succulent?!

Happy Digging!

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Common Problems with Christmas Cactus and How to Fix Them

Isn’t it frustrating when your plant (that looked so great at the store!) comes home and slowly starts looking like it’s about to die?! If this is the story of you and your Christmas cactus, just know that it’s okay.

You are not the only person who has a hard time keeping this tropical cactus alive…

And today, I’m going to show you the five most common problems people run into with their Christmas cactus. Knowing these problems and implementing their solutions will turn your dying Christmas cactus back into its glorious cactus self again soon!

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Problem #1: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Limp & Droopy

Cause #1: There are two different reasons why your Christmas cactus’ leaves are limp and droopy. The first reason is if it is currently flowering. Producing flowers takes a lot of energy away from the plant and many people have said that their plants become droopy during and just after flowering.

Care: If this is you, then simply wait until your plant has finished flowering, then make sure to let it rest for a few weeks with no fertilizer and only little water. Only water it when the soil is dry to the touch. After these few weeks, you can then resume your care as normal.

Cause #2: The second reason for limp or droopy leaves is because of improper watering. This is also a cause for wilted or shriveled leaves. So if your plant’s leaves are limp and droopy, and it isn’t currently flowering, then improper watering is the cause.

Care: Refer to the next section for shriveled or wilted leaf care.

Christmas Cactus Limp Leaves
Image courtesy of Garden.org

Problem #2: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Shriveled or Wilted

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves will wilt and shrivel up when the leaves aren’t getting enough water due to improper watering. This can be from either over-watering or under-watering. Feel the soil several inches below the soil surface, or use a soil moisture meter to determine if your soil has been kept too wet or too dry.

Care #1: If your soil is too wet, then you will most likely have damaged roots. You should immediately re-pot your Christmas cactus into fresh soil that is only lightly moist. While re-potting, trim off any black or mushy roots and pour hydrogen peroxide over the root system. This will kill any remaining bacteria before you place it into fresh soil. Also, take stem cuttings at this time to propagate, following the directions in Christmas Cactus Propagation. This will ensure that even if your plants’ roots die, you will still have cuttings to re-grow your Christmas cactus.

Care #2: On the flip side, if your plant is too dry, then you will need to slowly increase the moisture levels over a few days. Slowly bring it from bone dry back to lightly moist. You will know you’ve been successful when your plant’s leaves perk back up! Just be sure that you don’t end up over-watering your plant at this time. Remember, let it barely dry out before you water it again.

Also note that if your plant’s soil is hard and difficult to press your fingers into, then you will need to re-pot your plant into fresh, well-draining soil, such as a cactus and succulent soil or a regular soil mixed with additional sand or perlite.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #3: Your Plant’s Leaves are Pale or Red

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves begin to turn pale and then get a slight red tint if they are getting too much direct sunlight. The red tint can be pretty (and harmless in the right settings), but make sure that it isn’t getting burnt. Remember, these plants are tropical cacti, not desert cacti. So they are used to a very moist heat, not a dry heat like what you find in a home window. So if your leaves are turning a pale greenish-yellow color, or are excessively red, then it’s too much hot, direct sunlight.

Care: Move your Christmas cactus out of any direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight will be fine, but try to avoid any direct sunlight for at least a little while.

These plants can eventually become accustomed to higher light levels, but this would take a lot of acclimatizing. Instead, I would suggest you take the easier route and simply move it away from the hot sunlight.

Image courtesy of houzz.com

Problem #4: You Christmas Cactus’ Stems are Falling Off

Cause: The reason why your plant’s stems are falling off is because of root- or stem rot at the base of the plant. This always happens as a result of over-watering.

Care: Follow the care instructions for over-watering under the “Wilted or Shriveled Leaves” section (Problem #2, Care #1). This will tell you exactly how to care for a plant that has been over-watered.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #5: Flower Buds Fall off Before they Fully Bloom

Cause: Christmas cactus flower are notorious for being overly-sensitive. The reasons why your buds fell off could be because of your plant getting too dry, staying too wet, or because it recently moved locations.

Care: When your plant is in bud, make sure to keep your watering schedule consistent. But, if something comes up (or you’ve just recently brought your plant home) and all of its buds fall off, sit tight.

Let it rest for a few weeks, keeping it a bit more dry than usual, and give it a chance to set new buds. Sometimes if it is healthy enough, a Christmas cactus is able to produce a second set of blooms. So don’t get frustrated! Your little plant might just need a bit more time!

Image courtesy of gardeningknowhow.com

Those are the 5 most common Christmas cactus problems and how to fix them! Please let me know below if you have any questions or additional comments, and join my email list to get not only a special welcome gift, but to also receive all the latest tips and how-to’s straight to your inbox. Then, for more info on how to take care of your plant, check out my post, Christmas Cactus Plant Care!

Happy Digging!

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3 Easy Ways to Propagate Christmas Cactus

Hey everyone! Welcome back to The Girl with a Shovel! Today I wanted to tell you all about Christmas Cactus propagation: when and how to successfully propagate your Christmas cactus!

Note: This post is written for Christmas cactus, however, everything discussed can also be used for a Thanksgiving cactus as well. Propagation methods are the same for both.

The springtime is usually the best time to propagate your Christmas cactus! You want to make sure that it is several weeks after the bloom time and at least a month before the fall dormancy period (this is when you should be giving it light treatment to stimulate Christmas blooms).

There are 3 different ways to propagate a Christmas cactus. These are: upright in soil, flat in soil, and in water. But first I wanted to cover how to get a healthy cutting, and then we will get into these three different rooting methods.

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Getting a Healthy Cutting

Each Christmas cactus branch is made up of several sections (or pads) linked together. At the very bottom of the pad (where it connects to another pad) is where you can get roots to grow. But the tricky part is that you need to separate the pads without tearing the bottom of the pad. If the bottom of the pad is damaged in any way, then the cutting will most likely fail.

If you’ve ever propagated succulent leaves, then you’ll notice the process of pulling off the leaves is very similar to pulling off the cactus pads. For a visual of good versus bad leaf cuttings, refer to my post Propagating Succulents.

The easiest way to ensure you get the complete, undamaged cactus pad is to gently twist it away from the bottom pad. By gently twisting the top pad, your cactus pads should easily come apart – no tearing involved. Got it?! Now let’s work on planting your cutting…

How to take a successful cutting for Christmas Cactus propagation.

Method #1: Propagating Upright in Soil

This method is the best if you’ve got some large cuttings (around 4 pads each) and if you have good, whole ends on your cutting (aka you took good cuttings without tearing the bottom of the pad).

Take your cutting and lay it in dry location for 1-2 days. Be sure to keep them out of direct sunlight as well. This resting period is important as it helps the plant transition from growing shoots to thinking about growing roots.

After 1-2 days, place your cutting into fresh potting soil (cactus & succulent soil mix is best), and place the end far enough down that the soil covers the bottom pad. Then water it lightly, letting it just barely dry in between watering. Give it 2-3 weeks for roots to form.

Low on cactus and succulent soil? Here’s how to mix your own! DIY SUCCULENT SOIL RECIPE!

Method #1 Summary

  • Used for large cuttings (4 pads each)
  • Dry for 1-2 days
  • NO direct sunlight
  • Use light, well-draining soil
  • Keep LIGHTLY moist
Christmas Cactus Propagation Method #!: Upright in Soil

Method #2: Propagating Flat (On Top of Soil)

This method is best for you if you want to do soil propagation, but you have smaller cuttings (2-3 pads), or if your cutting’s bottom pad has been damaged in any way. I personally used this method for a section of 2 pads that were cut off my parent plant and was missing the bottom section of the lower pad. (I wasn’t the one who took the cutting, I swear! Haha!)

Simply dry out the cutting for 1-2 days (again avoiding direct sunlight). Then, instead of planting in the soil, you will place the cutting horizontally on top of the soil. This also needs a light soil, such as a cactus & succulent soil mix. Make sure that there is good contact between the soil and the point where the 2 cactus pads meet. This is where the new roots are going to come from. Then keep it lightly moist and your cutting should root within 2-3 weeks.

A special precaution for this type of rooting… because the cactus pads are laid horizontally against the soil, it increases the chances that your cactus pad gets too wet and begins to rot. To avoid this, try to only get the soil wet when you water your succulent. Try to keep the actual cutting dry. If you find this difficult, then I would suggest you use one of the other two propagation methods.

Method #2 Summary

  • Use with shorter cuttings (2-3 pads)
  • Let dry for 1-2 days
  • NO direct sunlight
  • Lay horizontally on top of the soil
  • Use light, well-draining soil
  • Keep LIGHTLY moist
  • Get soil wet, but keep cutting relatively dry

Method #3: Christmas Cactus Propagation in Water

Christmas cactus propagation in water has been proven to be the fastest way to propagate cuttings. Watching the video below, you’ll see how Christmas cactus cuttings in water grow roots weeks before the Christmas cactus in soil. However, when you root your cuttings in water, you will still have the extra step of transferring your cuttings to soil, which can be a delicate process. So be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each method and choose your propagation method accordingly.

The key to having success with water propagation is to have a good callus. To do this, first, get a good cutting by following the instructions above. Then, make sure that you leave it out to dry. Keep it out of direct sunlight and let it dry to the point that the leaf gets thinner, but put it in water before it gets any wrinkles. If it starts to get wrinkle lines, then you’ve left your cutting out a bit too long.

Once your cutting has dried enough (but not too much!), it will have formed a good enough callus that you can put it in water without the risk of it rotting. If your cutting does rot, then this is a sign that it didn’t form a good enough callus and it should be left out to dry longer next time.

Leave your cutting in water for several weeks, or until it has roots that are about an inch or two in length. While your cutting is in water, make sure that you change out its water every few days. This keeps the water fresh and cuts down on the chances that you will have problems with bacterial rot on your cuttings or on your roots.

Once your cuttings are ready to pot, use a well-draining soil (such as cactus & succulent soil mix, or regular soil mixed with perlite), as well as a well-draining pot. This will be extremely important in successfully transitioning your plant from water to soil.

Transitioning from Water to Soil

As you transition your cuttings, plant them in soil just like you would with any other cutting, then water it thoroughly. Keep it in a warm location with a fair amount of indirect light. At this point it can also withstand some direct morning or evening sunlight as long as temperatures don’t get too hot.

Let your plant’s soil only get slightly dry before watering it again. This means that you will be watering these cuttings a lot more than your regular Christmas cactus. Slowly decrease your watering until your plant can withstand the soil becoming almost dry between watering. This transition should be over the course of a few months and will slowly transition your plant from being in water to being in soil.

Method#3 Summary

  • Let cuttings form a callous
  • Switch out water frequently
  • Use well-draining soil
  • Keep moist when potted in soil
  • Slowly transition from water to soil

So that’s how to have successful Christmas cactus propagation! Remember to choose the method that is best for your situation. And let me know how it goes! Leave any additional questions or comments below. And feel free to join my email list for more awesome tips on how to keep your plants alive and healthy!

Happy Digging!

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33 Stunning Succulents that are Safe for Cats

Succulents Safe for Cats Cover Image

Cats and houseplants. I get it. Your furry, feline friends are always exploring, touching, sniffing, and sometimes even taste-testing your houseplants. You can’t get them to stop, so instead you want to make sure that whatever plant you bring into your home won’t hurt them. This can sometimes make cat-owners hesitant to purchase houseplants. But today I’m going to show you 33 succulents that you can safely keep, as they are non-toxic to cats! So enjoy the peace-of-mind that comes with knowing your succulent collection can grow while your precious furry friend remains safe!

*Note: I have researched these plants to the best of my ability and have found them to be safe for cats. However, I hold no liability for any incorrect information or any harm or damages caused to yourself, your pets, or your property because of this information. For further details about plant toxicity levels and what to do if your pet ingests any of these plants, please visit aspca.org or call their help number at 1-(888)-426-4435*

*Each of these plants contain an affiliate link to purchase these products at succulentsbox.com. Unfortunately, succulentsbox.com does not ship outside of the continental USA. Any readers who live outside of the continental USA will have to find a local source to purchase these succulents. I am sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.*

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#1: Crinoline Ruffles Echeveria

This beautiful Echeveria has ruffled leaves with light pink edges surrounding a blue-green center. Crinoline Ruffles is for anyone looking for something unique to add to their collection!

Purchase Crinoline Ruffles Echeveria

#2: Cymbiformis var. obtusa Haworthia

Transparent tips??? Stunning! This Haworthia variety has thick, dense leaves that open up to transparent tips. These leaves can be somewhat soft, so make sure it is protected from tipping over.

Purchase Cymbiformis var. obtusa Haworthia

#3: Red Lion Sempervivum

This deep red Sempervivum will definitely add some color to your succulent collection! The red leaves can also have green tints on the leaf edges depending on the plant and the amount of sunlight.

Purchase Red Lion Sempervivum

#4: Ghost Echeveria

The Echeveria lilacina (Ghost) has striking silver leaves that stand out when placed near other green succulents. This loose rosette also does not produce offsets very quickly, making it very happy in the same pot for a while.

Purchase Ghost Echeveria

#5: Topsy Turvy Echeveria

This large succulent has a very unique shape. Silver-green leaves twist into the center of the rosette, leaving this topsy-turvy succulent highly sought after.

Purchase Topsy Turvy Echeveria

#6: Afterglow Echeveria

Afterglow is another large Echeveria variety. It is characterized by its pink and purple leaves that form a loose, free-style rosette.

Purchase Afterglow Echeveria

#7: Living Stones Lithops

Known as “Living Stones”, Lithops are one of the coolest, trending succulents of the decade! As they grow, they produce a large flower in the middle of their two leaves, then they go dormant for several months, sometimes completely receding back into the soil. If you want an ultra low-maintenance succulent, then this is right for you!

Purchase Living Stones Lithops

#8: Venosa Haworthia

This triangular succulent is sure to make a statement with its green, webbed leaves. It is also a fast producer of offsets, giving you plenty of little plants to either add to your collection or to gift to a friend.

Purchase Venosa Haworthia

#9: Cubic Frost Echeveria

Cubic Frost is a soft pink succulent with wedge-shaped leaves. It also grows relatively fast for a succulent, making it perfect for the impatient gardener!

Purchase Cubic Frost Echeveria

#10: Black Knight Echeveria

The ‘Black Knight’ Echeveria isn’t your typical soft pastel succulent. Instead, dark green centers fade to black edges! The more sun this plant gets, the darker its leaves… so plan accordingly!

Purchase Black Knight Echeveria

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#11: Mardi Gras Aeonium

This colorful succulent shows the best of nature’s paint brush! Yellow and green stripes give way to purple tips on these stunning succulents.

Purchase Mardi Gras Aeonium

#12: Suncup Variegata Aeonium

Each Suncup is a unique blend of green variegation on a yellow rosette. It is one of the smaller Aeoniums, but it does readily produce offsets to make up for its smaller size.

Purchase Suncup Variegata Aeonium

#13: Elegans Echeveria (Mexican snowball)

The ‘Mexican Snowball’ Echeveria has a dense, thick covering of blue-tinted leaves. These dense leaves remind us all why these succulents are called rosettes!

Purchase Elegans Echeveria

#14: Crested Frosty Echeveria

This unusual succulent is covered in soft white fur, which makes it a huge favorite! However, it’s name is deceiving as this Crested Frosty actually does not do well in the cold.

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#15: Cobweb Sempervivum

It’s no wonder this variety is known as the ‘Cobweb’ Sempervivum. The white threads would be worrisome on any other plant!

Purchase Cobweb Sempervivum

#16: Calcareum Sempervivum

The Calcareum features dense leaves, all tipped with a deep red. This warns people of its somewhat sharp tips, though it’s still a lot safer than your cacti!

Purchase Calcarium Sempervivum

#17: Holiday Cactus Schlumbergera

Speaking of cacti, this tropical cactus should be treated more like an orchid than a cactus. Long, scale-like stems bear large, bright flowers when given a strict lighting regiment during the fall.

Purchase Holiday Cactus Schlumbergera

#18: Mahogany Sempervivum

A more open version of the ‘Calcarium’, the ‘Mahogany’ also has red-tipped leaves. But the more sun this plant receives, the darker the leaves will become!

Purchase Mahogany Sempervivum

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#19: Violet Queen Echeveria

The Violet Queen has long, blue-green leaves that take on a pastel pink color on the edges when it gets cold. It also produces offsets rapidly, so be prepared to have several of these cuties!

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#20: Black Rose Zwartkopf Aeonium

‘Black Rose’ is one of the most popular Aeonium varieties. And it’s no wonder! The deep black leaves with the green center is so stunning it makes everyone want to start up a succulent collection!

Purchase Black Rose Zwartkopf Aeonium

#21: Kiwi Aeonium

The Kiwi is one of my personal favorites! Its leaves range from green to yellow to white depending on the amount of sunlight. And to top it off, the edges stay perfectly lined in an almost fruity shade of red!

Purchase Kiwi Aeonium

#22: Subsessilis Echeveria

For a softer shade of pink, get yourself a Subsessilis! The light pink tips paired with the blue-green color of its leaves makes it a dreamy pallet of soft pastels.

Purchase Subsessilis Echeveria

#23: Dinner Plate Aeonium

This succulent is named ‘Dinner Plate’ because of its large, flat shape that can get up to 2 feet in diameter! However, under good care it doesn’t stay flat and instead forms smooth, rounded hills of green.

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#24: Lily Pad Aeonium

When people think of succulents, they usually picture something like the Lily Pad. Thick, fleshy green leaves form a picture-perfect rosette every time!

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#25: Doris Taylor Echeveria

This furry succulent is the perfect companion to your own furry feline friend! The hard part will be keeping your hands off this little guy!

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#26: Perle von Numberg Echeveria

Perle von Numberg is one of the most widely sold succulents. It’s easy to find this beautiful, pink Echeveria, so pick one up today, or feel free to have it shipped straight to your door!

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#27: Painted Nodulosa Echeveria

The Painted Nodulosa is truly a masterpiece of dark green and wine red. And it’s beauty is only improved by the fact that it is one of our succulents that are safe for your cat! Just be aware that this plant tends to grow upwards instead of having a spreading habit.

Purchase Painted Nodulosa Echeveria

#28: Zebra Plant Haworthia

Zebra plants are easily identified for their white spines that travel up each individual leaf. As they continue to grow upward, they will also produce lots of new offsets at their base. This is why Haworthias are perfect for people wanting to fill their house with succulents!

Purchase Zebra Plant Haworthia

#29: Window Haworthia

The ‘Window’ Haworthia is a succulent that uses its transparent leaves as a window! This allows light to penetrate deeper into its leaves. This zero-waste succulent shows how something can be efficient and stunning at the same time.

Purchase Window Haworthia

#30: Blue Rosette Echeveria Minima

This succulent is one of the small varieties of Echeveria. However, this doesn’t stop it from producing lots of offsets. This succulent fills its pot with little blue rosettes in no time!

Purchase Blue Rosette Echeveria Minima

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#31: Chroma Echeveria

Each and every ‘Chroma’ Echeveria is slightly different! Leaf colors can be green, brown, purple, red, or even pink. This little succulent is definitely one-of-a-kind!

Purchase Chroma Echeveria

#32: Donkey’s Tail Sedum

This Sedum is widely known and loved! Very few people know that it’s actually one of our succulents that are safe for your cats! As if we need any more reasons to buy this beautiful trailing succulent!

Purchase Donkey’s Tail Sedum

#33: Raindrops Echeveria

Raindrops is truly unique with its large ‘raindrops’ that grow on the tips of its leaves! This blue-green succulent can also get pink tips when given lots of sunlight!

Purchase Raindrops Echeveria

That’s it for my list of 33 stunning succulents that are safe for cats! Enjoy your succulents, while knowing that your curious cats are safe! And check out this list of Houseplants that are Safe for Pets for even more ideas!

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below. Then to get even more awesome tips, join my email list! Every new subscriber gets a free welcome gift!

Then, if you want some more help with your succulents, here’s my post that explains the secret to succulent watering! Here is the answer to How Often Should You Water Succulents?

Happy Digging!

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How to Care for Christmas Cactus


A Christmas cactus can be a beautiful and fun houseplant to own! Not only does it add a bit of warmth to the holidays, but if given good treatment, it can bloom every Christmas for up to 30 years! Now that’s one long life for a plant! But to keep our Christmas cactus alive and well for all those years, we need to know how to properly care for our Christmas cactus! So here’s what you need to know…

Don’t have a Christmas cactus yet? You can get one here!

**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits. This helps me to keep providing awesome information to all of you!**

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Care for Christmas Cactus: Light Requirements

For proper care, we first need to realize that this cactus, a Schlumbergera species, is not like or normal cacti originating from central America to the western United States. Nope… this cactus actually originates from a coastal climate in Brazil. So that being said, it isn’t used to those long hours of hot, direct sunlight. Instead, place it in an east- or west- facing window so that it gets direct sunlight in the mornings or evenings, but it stays protected from any hot, afternoon sunlight.

Here's what you need to know to care for christmas cactus... light requirements...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Water Requirements

Being a coastal cactus, this plant needs some interesting watering techniques. First, only water your Christmas cactus when the soil feels dry to the touch (about 2 inches or 5 cm down from the surface). Too much water, and your cactus will start turning yellow and the leaves will get fast and mushy. If this happens, it’s best to take some cuttings from the healthy part of your plant to propagate in case your entire plant dies from being over-watered. Here are the 3 methods you can use for Christmas Cactus Propagation. So basically let’s avoid this by only watering once the soil feels dry to the touch!

The next tip I have for you is to give your plant higher humidity levels, especially during the time when it had buds on it. If your plant doesn’t get enough humidity, or it is getting either too little water or too much water, it will drop all of its buds. So once your plant’s buds form, lightly mist it every day.

Water requirements for Christmas cactus care...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Additional Tips

As well as misting, once your plant’s buds form, you will also want to be giving it a high-phosphorous plant food once every two weeks. This will help it to stay healthy while it is at it’s most vulnerable. Next, to help with correct watering, it is VITAL that you keep it in a light, well-draining soil, such as in a cactus and succulent potting soil.

Also, as your plant blooms, remove any dead or wilting flowers. This helps it to produce even more flowers as it senses that it’s seeds didn’t fully ripen. It also keeps your Christmas cactus looking fresh and healthy! Then, once your plant has finished blooming, re-pot it into fresh soil, keeping the pot small enough to have the roots just a little cramped. Then just let it sit and enjoy it’s morning or evening sun until the following September when you’ll want to prompt it to start blooming once again!

Here are the additional tips for care for Christmas cactus...

That’s how to care for your Christmas cactus! And once again, for information on how to propagate your plant, check out my post, 3 Easy Ways to Propagate Christmas Cactus! If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends! Simply click on your favorite social button and it will let you share this post, no copying and pasting required! I hope you all have a wonderful holiday season and I hope your Christmas cactus stays beautiful all year round!

Happy Digging!

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How to Water your Air Plants the RIGHT Way!

Hey everyone! I know that we all LOVE air plants, but how the heck do you water something without any roots or any soil?!?! Well today I’m going to tell you exactly how to water your air plants so they stay happy and thriving!

Now there are two different methods. First is if your air plant is mounted/hot glued/fixed in any way to it’s stand. The second method (which is the preferred method) is for if your air plant is separate and can be removed from its mount, or if the mount is waterproof. So keep reading and use whichever method applies to you! But first, before you learn HOW to water your air plants, you need to make sure you’re using the correct TYPE of water…

If you want overall care tips for your air plant, check out my post here on air plant care!

Want to boost your air plant collection?! You can get some awesome air plants here!

**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with such awesome information!**

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What Kind of Water to Use for Air Plants

Unlike most other houseplants, air plants DON’T like distilled water! If it’s a choice between distilled or tap water, go with tap water every time! The main harm with tap water is its chlorine. But for this, you can simply leave your water out for about 30 minutes to allow the chlorine to dissipate. This should be your easiest choice of water.

To go to the next level with your watering, choose a natural source, such as rain water, pond water, or lake water. While the rain water is what your plant is used to in its natural habitat, spring water, pond water, or lake water can also be extremely good for your air plants because it is usually rich in nutrients. Another alternative to these is if you have an aquarium. Aquarium water can also be highly beneficial to air plants as your air plant can get added nutrients from this water as well.

The only recommendation that I have, however, is if you use one of these water sources that already contains nutrients, then hold off on the fertilizer. If you use both, then it could potentially be too much for your little guy!

Now… on to the exact methods!

How to Water Air Plants Method 1: Fixed to a Mount

If your air plant is fixed to a mount or a stand, then the best way to water your plant will be through misting. This can be tricky though as most people who mist their air plants end up with rotted, dead plants. (Trust me! I know from personal experience!!!)

To correctly mist your air plant, the important thing is to think of it more like a shower than a misting. Spray it with a spray bottle or a misting bottle until the leaves are dripping with water. (I would recommend placing it in a sink or on a towel while you do this).

The next two tips are vital to avoid rotting your plant! These two tips are: turn your plant upside down, and give it good air circulation.

After you mist your plant you should place it upside down for 10-15 minutes to allow any excess water drain out of the plant. This is vital! Air plants aren’t like bromeliads that can keep water cupped in their leaves. If you do this to your air plant, it will most likely die on you. Instead, give it a good shake and place it in a position where all of the excess water can drain out.

This was my first big lesson with air plants. My first tillandsia was glued into a hanging glass globe. Little did I know that while I was spraying it down, all of the excess water was collecting in the bottom of those glued-in rocks, which was cradling the very center of my air plant… And let’s just say, it didn’t appreciate the long-term bath! So please remember to drain any excess water off of your air plant!!!

Next, make sure that your plant has good air circulation while it is drying. Normal indoor air circulation is fine, but if your plants are in glass terrariums, or in some of those glass globes (like my first air plant), then you’ll need to help it out a bit with a light fan. This will help to avoid any rotting from excess moisture.

Once it has finished soaking up all of the water and has completely dried, then you will be good to go! Simply follow this spray, shake, and circulate a couple times each week dependent on the temperature and the amount of indirect sunlight. Then watch your beautiful plant thrive!

How to Water Air Plants Method 2: Removable Air Plant

The soaking method, or the water bath method, is the preferred method of watering and I recommend purchasing your air plants separately from their container for this reason. It will be a lot easier for you and your plant in the long run. However, note that the xeric air plants, (most air plants with fuzzy leaves, such as the tillandsia tectorum, or the tillandsia xerographica) don’t like as much water and will do best with the misting method mentioned above.

So what you do for this situation is… once every 7-10 days, fill up a large bowl (or your sink or tub depending on how many air plants you own) with lukewarm water and place your air plants inside. Leave them to soak for several hours. Your goal here is to give your plants a good soak. Let them absorb as much water as they possibly can. I’ve heard of some people leaving their air plants to soak for up to twelve hours!

After they are done soaking, then you NEED to place them upside down on a towel or dish cloth to drain. Let them drain for about 4 hours, or until they are completely dry. If you live in a humid climate, you can also speed up the drying process by placing a fan nearby to increase air circulation.

After the plant is completely dry, then it is ready to place back on its stand and wait anther 7-10 days to water it again. If the tips begin to turn brown, lightly mist your plant a few times during the week, or increase your watering frequency.

How Often Do I Water my Air Plant?

To know how often to water your air plant, you will need to consider several different factors. First, it will help if you know the genus tillandsia that you have. This will help you know if it comes from a humid environment, like south america, or if it comes from a more arid climate, like found in central america. Then, factoring in how much indirect light it is receiving, you can start off with an estimate of whether it would like more frequent or less frequent waterings. A good rule of thumb is to give your air plant small amounts of water. Then, if the tips of the leaves begin to brown, you will know to slightly increase your watering.

I hope this helps! Let’s keep our air plants happy and well-watered (but not rotting!!!) And if you have any questions or comments, feel free to join the Facebook group, Houseplants for Plant Killers or follow me on Youtube! I love hearing from you!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

How Often do Air Plants Need to be Watered?

The frequency of water will change with both the time of year, the indoor humidity levels, and how much light your plant is getting. As a general rule of thumb, however, you should expect to give your air plant a good soak every 7 to 10 days.

Can you Soak Air Plants in Tap Water?

Yes. You can use tap water to soak your air plants. The best practice, though is to fill your bucket of water, then leave it out for at least 15-30 minutes to let the chlorine evaporate out. This will be much healthier for your plant without you sacrificing too much of your time.

Do Air Plants Need Sun?

Yes. They need sunlight. But not all tillandsia species do well with DIRECT sunlight. Instead, they do much better with lots of indirect, bright light. In general, if your plant has a lighter, pale color, then it will do better with more sun. If your plant is more vibrant in color, then it will most likely be fine in lower light or fluorescent light conditions.

How do you Water an Air Plant without Soaking It?

To water an air plant without soaking it, you can use the spray/misting method mentioned above. This will require more frequent watering, but is necessary for plants that are secured to a non-waterproof base. If the spraying is still getting too much water on the plant stand, however, it would be better off to gently remove the air plant and soak once per week as recommended.

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