Plant Tips

How to Water Houseplants the RIGHT way! (+Watering Tips)

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man watering dracaena with watering can

Last month my mom was visiting to help me with my new little baby girl. While she was visiting, she asked me about one of her houseplants. It was a pretty interesting conversation… and I’ll admit, she’s struggled through the years as many people have with her plants dying. She wasn’t sure how to correctly water plants.

So… what was the first question that she asked me? She asked if yellow leaves were a sign of overwatering or underwatering.

My honest reply was that it can be a sign of either over-watering or under-watering.

With an exasperated sigh, she threw up her hands and said “Then how do I know if I need to water it more or if I need to stop?!”

“Well…” I replied, “is the soil wet?”

This question always seems to get people thinking. Hmm… Is the soil wet? Most people wouldn’t know. My mom didn’t remember. She said her plant had died a while back and she couldn’t remember if the soil was wet or dry…

So the moral of this story is that watering can be hard, but don’t worry, you’re not alone! Watering indoor plants can be a tricky business, and even the most experienced plant parents sometimes struggle to get it just right.

In this article, we’ll dive deep into the world of watering houseplants. We’ll explore the factors that affect your plants’ water needs, learn how to recognize the signs of overwatering and underwatering, and discover the best techniques for giving your plants the hydration they crave.

So, grab a cup of coffee (or a watering can!), and let’s get started on this journey to becoming the ultimate houseplant hydration hero!

Want to watch different watering techniques? Check out my youtube video below!

Understanding Your Houseplants’ Water Needs

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of watering techniques, let’s take a step back and understand what factors influence your houseplants’ water requirements. After all, you wouldn’t give a cactus the same amount of water as a fern, right?

Here’s the rewritten section with more explanation for each bullet point:

Factors Affecting Water Requirements

Several key factors come into play when determining how much water your houseplants need:

  • Plant type: Different plant species have varying water needs. Succulents and cacti are adapted to arid environments, storing water in their fleshy leaves and stems, so they require less frequent watering. On the other hand, tropical plants such as ferns and calatheas originate from humid, wet regions of the world and prefer consistently moist soil to thrive.
  • Pot size and material: The size of the pot affects how quickly the soil dries out. Smaller pots have less soil volume, causing them to dry out faster than a larger pot. Additionally, the pot material plays a role. Porous materials like terracotta allow for better air circulation and faster water evaporation, requiring more frequent watering compared to non-porous materials like plastic or glazed ceramic.
two snake plants in pots sitting in tupperware full of water. hand lifting one snake plant out to drain excess water.
  • Root-to-soil ratio: Root-to-soil ratio, or basically the size of your pot can have an effect on your frequency of watering as well. Small plants in small pots use a typical amount of water, but large plants (with lots of roots) in small pots will dry out much faster than the average houseplant. This is why if your plant’s soil starts to dry out quickly, it is a sign that you need to repot your plant into a larger pot. (aka, increase the amount of soil, so you have a more balanced root-to-soil ratio.
  • Soil type: Well-draining potting soil is essential for most houseplants to prevent waterlogging and root rot. A good potting mix should contain ingredients like perlite, vermiculite, or bark chips to improve drainage and aeration.
  • Light and temperature: Plants in brighter, warmer environments tend to dry out faster due to increased transpiration (water loss through leaves) and evaporation from the soil surface. Those in cooler, lower-light conditions will require less frequent watering.
  • Humidity: High humidity levels in the air can slow down water evaporation from the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Conversely, low humidity environments may cause the soil to dry out more quickly.

By considering these factors, you can start to develop a better understanding of your houseplants’ unique water needs.

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Signs of Underwatering and Overwatering

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to miss the mark when it comes to watering. Here are some telltale signs that your indoor plants are crying out for help:

Underwatering:

  • Drooping or wilting leaves
  • Crispy, brown leaf edges
  • Dry, hard soil that pulls away from the pot’s edges
  • Slow growth or leaf drop

Overwatering:

  • Yellow, mushy, or falling leaves
  • Moldy or smelly soil
  • Fungus gnats flying around the plant
  • Brown, soft, or rotting roots
hand holding dry soil above houseplant in pot to tell how to water houseplants

Signs of overwatering and underwatering can sometimes look similar, but a telltale sign to look at is if the yellowing leaf is fat and mushy, like it has water inside, or if it is becoming dry and crinkly like all the water in the leaf is gone.

If you spot any of these signs, don’t panic! In most cases, adjusting your watering routine and letting the soil dry out a bit can help your plants bounce back.

Now that you have a better grasp on the factors affecting your houseplants’ water needs and the signs of watering woes, let’s explore when and how to water your green friends for optimal health and happiness.

When to Water Your Houseplants

Picture this: it’s a sunny Saturday morning, and you’re standing in front of your beloved houseplants, watering can in hand. But wait! Before you start dousing your leafy friends, let’s talk about when to water them.

Checking Soil Moisture Levels

The most foolproof way to determine if your plants need water is to check the soil moisture levels. Here are a few methods to try:

The finger test: Stick your finger about an inch deep into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, hold off for a day or two.

placing finger into houseplant soil.

The chopstick method: Insert a wooden chopstick or skewer into the soil, then remove it. If it comes out clean and dry, your plant is thirsty. If it’s covered in damp soil, wait a bit longer.

Moisture meters: These handy tools measure soil moisture levels with a simple probe, taking the guesswork out of watering.

soil moisture meter reading "moist" in houseplant soil

The weight test: When soil is dry, it is much lighter than when it is full of a lot of heavy water. One way you can test roughly how much water is in your soil is by doing a weight test. You basically lift the pot and see how light or heavy it is. For those who only have a few plants and who can get used to the plants’ weight, this can be a simple, quick guage for how much moisture is still in your pot.

hand lifting scindapsus plant in macrame hanger

Remember, the goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Overwatering can be just as harmful as underwatering!

Establishing a Watering Schedule

Once you’ve got a handle on your plants’ moisture needs, it’s time to create a watering schedule. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

  • Water in the morning: This gives your plants plenty of time to absorb the water before the heat of the day sets in.
  • Be consistent: Try to water your plants on the same days each week, adjusting as needed based on soil moisture levels.
  • Group plants with similar needs: Place plants with comparable watering requirements together to make your watering routine more efficient.

I like to keep a simple calendar reminder on my phone to help me stay on track with my watering schedule. It’s a small step that makes a big difference in keeping my plants happy and healthy!

When to Adjust Your Watering Schedule

As the seasons change and your plants grow, their watering needs may shift. Here are a few scenarios where you might need to adjust your watering routine:

  • Seasonal changes: Plants typically require less water in the cooler months (in the fall and winter months) when they’re not actively growing. Conversely, they may need more frequent watering during the hot, bright summer months.
  • Changes in light: If you move your plants to a brighter or dimmer spot, their water needs may change accordingly.
  • Plant growth: As your plants grow larger, they’ll likely require more water to sustain their increased size.

It’s a good idea to test your plants’ moisture levels each time you water. By staying attuned to your plants’ needs and making small adjustments to your watering schedule as necessary, you’ll be able to keep your plants watered correctly.

How to Water Houseplants Properly

Alright, you’ve figured out when to water your plants, but now you might be wondering, “How do I actually do it?” Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered! Let’s explore the best ways to keep your plants perfectly hydrated.

Choosing the Right Water Source

Not all water is created equal when it comes to your houseplants. Here are some tips for selecting the best water source:

  • Rain water or filtered water: These are the ideal choices, as they’re free from harmful chemicals and minerals that can build up in the soil over time.
  • Tap water: If you must use tap water, let it sit out for 24 hours before watering to allow any chlorine to evaporate.
  • Avoid softened water: Softened water contains salt, which can harm your plants in the long run.
  • Room temperature is best: Avoid giving your indoor plants water that is too hot or too cold. Room temperature (or around there) is best.

I typically water my plants with filtered water just because with all the kids I have around the house, if I leave a jug of tap water out to evaporate, it WILL get knocked over within 24 hours! Haha! So I have my plants’ water filter under my sink, ready to go whenever it’s watering time. So make sure that you find the type of water source that works for you and your plants!

You can check out my post on 5 Signs your Plants need Filtered Water if you’re unsure.

You can also check out my video where I tested my own water filter to see if it really removed the chemicals or not…

But now it’s time for knowing exactly HOW to water. Here are the two best methods of watering:

  1. The Soak and Drain Method (also known as Bottom-Watering): Place your plant’s pot on a tray or basin and slowly pour water into the tray, allowing the soil to absorb the water from the bottom up. Stop adding water once the soil surface is moist. Let the plant sit and soak for twenty minutes to a few hours, depending on the size of the pot, then discard any remaining water in the tray.
  2. The Top Watering Method: Use a watering can with a narrow spout to slowly pour water over the top of the soil, starting around the edge of the pot and working your way inward. Keep watering until you see water beginning to drain from the bottom of the pot.

Whichever method you choose, be sure to water slowly and evenly, giving the soil time to absorb the moisture. And don’t forget to empty any excess water from the saucer or tray to prevent root rot!

Want more information on which watering method you should choose? Check out my video below!

Avoiding Common Watering Mistakes

Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make mistakes when watering your houseplants. Here are a few common pitfalls to avoid:

  • Overwatering: As tempting as it may be to give your plants a little extra love, resist the urge to water too frequently. Stick to your watering schedule and always check the soil moisture levels before watering.
  • Underwatering: On the flip side, don’t let your plants go too long without water (Or avoid only giving them little water sips at a time). If you notice drooping leaves or dry soil, it’s time to give them a good drink.
  • Watering at night: Avoid watering your plants in the evening, as the cooler temperatures and lack of evaporation can lead to fungal growth and root rot.

By choosing the right water source, avoiding improper watering techniques, and steering clear of common mistakes, you’ll be well on your way to becoming an indoor plant expert!

Caring for Houseplants After Watering

Congratulations, you’ve successfully watered your houseplants! But wait, there’s more! Proper post-watering care is just as crucial as the watering itself. Let’s dive into how to keep your plants thriving after they’ve had a good drink.

Allowing Proper Drainage

Picture this: you’ve just given your beloved fiddle leaf fig a thorough watering, but you notice water pooling in the saucer beneath the pot. What do you do?

The answer is simple: remove the extra water. Allowing your plants to sit in standing water can lead to a host of problems, including root rot and fungal growth. Here’s what you can do:

  • Use pots with drainage holes to allow excess water to escape.
  • Empty saucers or trays beneath your pots after watering.
  • If your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, use a moisture meter to avoid overwatering, or consider repotting your plant into a container with proper drainage.

I once had a beautiful dracaena that I didn’t notice the water pooling between the nursery pot (with drainage holes) and the designer pot (with no drainage holes). By the time I noticed, the roots had started to rot, and I had to perform some serious plant surgery to save it. Learn from my mistake and always prioritize proper drainage!

watering can spout adding water to ivy plant sitting in sink

Monitoring for Pests and Diseases

While proper watering is essential for healthy houseplants, it can also create an ideal environment for pests and diseases to thrive (especially if you tend to keep your plants on the moist side). So after watering, take a moment to inspect your plants for any signs of trouble:

  • Fungus gnats: These tiny flying insects love damp soil. If you notice them buzzing around your plants, let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings and consider only bottom-watering your plants for a time. This is the best method to keeping your plants clear of this annoying pest.
  • Mildew or mold: White, powdery spots on leaves or fuzzy growth on the soil surface can indicate a fungal problem. Ensure proper air circulation around your plants and avoid getting water on the leaves when watering.
  • Yellowing or wilting leaves: While these can be signs of overwatering, they can also indicate pest infestations or nutrient deficiencies. Inspect your plants closely and consider treating with a natural insecticide or fertilizer as needed.

By keeping a watchful eye on your plants after watering, you can catch any potential issues early and take action to keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.

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Well, there you have it, folks! You’re now equipped with the knowledge and skills to become a true houseplant watering pro. From understanding your plants’ unique needs to mastering the art of the perfect pour, you’ve got this!

Remember, the key to success is to pay attention to your plants. They’ll tell you when they’re thirsty, and they’ll show you when they’re thriving. Trust your instincts, and don’t be afraid to make adjustments as needed.

Watering your houseplants may seem like a simple task, but it’s one of the most important aspects of plant care. By taking the time to understand your plants’ needs and develop a consistent watering routine, you’ll be rewarded with a lush, vibrant indoor jungle that brings you joy and tranquility.

So go forth, my fellow plant parents, and embrace the wonderful world of houseplant watering! With a little love, patience, and a trusty watering can, you’ll be well on your way to creating a green oasis in your home.

Don’t get discouraged if you encounter challenges along the way. Every misstep is an opportunity to learn and grow as a plant parent.

Happy watering, and may your houseplants always be green, gorgeous, and thriving!

How to Water Air Plants the RIGHT way!

How Often should I water my Succulents?

FAQs

Alright, you’ve made it through the article, and you’re feeling pretty confident about your houseplant watering skills. But wait, what’s that? You still have a few lingering questions? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered! Let’s dive into some of the most common queries about watering houseplants.

How often should I water my houseplants?

As a general rule of thumb, most houseplants prefer to be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. This can range from once a week to once every few weeks, depending on the plant and the conditions in your home.
The best way to determine when to water is to check the soil moisture levels regularly and get to know your specific plants’ individual needs to know if you’re giving them enough water. With time and practice, you’ll develop a sixth sense for when your leafy friends are ready for a drink!

Is tap water safe for watering houseplants?

In most cases, tap water is perfectly fine for watering your houseplants. However, there are a few things to keep in mind:

– If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit out for 24 hours before watering to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
– If you have a water softener, the added salts can build up in the soil over time and harm your plants. Consider using rainwater or filtered water instead.
– Some plants, like carnivorous plants and certain orchids, are more sensitive to the minerals in tap water. For these picky plants, it’s best to use distilled or rainwater.

If you’re unsure about the quality of your tap water, you can always have it tested or opt for a safer alternative like filtered or rainwater.

What are the signs of overwatering and underwatering?

Overwatering and underwatering are the two most common culprits behind houseplant woes. Here’s how to spot the signs:

Overwatering:
Yellow, mushy, or falling leaves
Moldy or smelly soil
Fungus gnats flying around the plant
Brown, soft, or rotting roots

Underwatering:
Drooping or wilting leaves
Crispy, brown leaf edges
Dry, hard soil that pulls away from the pot’s edges
Slow growth or leaf drop

If you notice any of these signs, don’t panic! Adjust your watering routine accordingly and give your plant some time to recover. With a little TLC, most houseplants are remarkably resilient and can bounce back from the brink of disaster.

The Complete Proven Guide to Grow a Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree

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The fiddle leaf fig plant, with its large, glossy leaves and striking appearance, has emerged as a beloved choice for indoor plant enthusiasts. Its elegant presence adds a touch of tropical beauty to any space whether you’re going for a minimalist, modern, or even a bohemian design scheme. This makes it a popular choice for interior decoration. However, as captivating as these plants are, the next question becomes, how do I take care of this plant? Believe me, I’ve seen my share of dying fiddle leaf fig trees. So here are my tips on fiddle leaf fig plant care to help your plant continue to look sleek instead of turning sad…

Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Care: Light Requirements - East-facing windows are the absolute BEST for this plant!

Brief Overview of the Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant

Originally native to the rainforests of West Africa, the fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) belongs to the ficus genus and is renowned for its broad, violin-shaped leaves that lend it its name. While it can grow into a majestic tree in its natural habitat, when cultivated indoors, it adapts to a more manageable size, making it suitable for various living spaces.

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Despite many people labelling these tropical plants as beginner-friendly, I’ve found that successfully nurturing a fiddle leaf fig indoors requires more than just watering it occasionally. Adequate attention to factors such as lighting, watering, fertilizing, and pest control is crucial for ensuring the plant’s well-being and long life. Next up I’ll delve into the essential aspects of fiddle leaf fig care indoors, providing practical tips and guidelines to help you grow your own gorgeous ficus tree.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Care: Light Requirements

Fiddle leaf figs, or ficus lyrata, need plenty of bright light. However, direct, hot sunlight will easily burn the leaves. So how do we find the perfect balance? The absolute best location is to place your fig tree in a location where it will get direct morning light, but where it will be shaded during the afternoon hours. Two great options are placed in an east-facing window, or put it to the west of a south-facing window (where the morning light will be slanted for a direct hit, but by the afternoon, it will get nice, indirect light). Once you’ve placed it in the optimal light conditions, make sure to rotate the pot every couple of weeks to keep the new growth from leaning towards the light. This is vital if you want a well-rounded, large tree that is not leaning!

Potting and Soil

Now that we’ve found the ideal spot for your fiddle-leaf fig tree, it’s time to talk pots and soil. Let me share some tips based on my own trials and errors in potting and soil selection.

Selecting the Right Pot Size

When it comes to pots, size matters! You’ll want to choose a pot that provides ample room for your fiddle leaf fig’s roots to spread out comfortably. Opt for a pot that’s about 2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot your plant is in. This will give the roots room to grow without being overwhelmed by too much space. Plus, a slightly larger pot helps prevent your fiddle leaf fig from becoming root-bound, which can stunt its growth. Trust me, I’ve learned the hard way that cramped roots lead to unhappy plants!

On the flip side, though, you don’t want a pot that is too large for your fiddle. If you go more than 2″ larger in diameter, then you can risk having too much soil that holds on to too much moisture. This can lead to root rot. It’s a good idea to err on the side of keeping your pot a little bit more snug than to overpot your indoor plants.

Choosing Well-Draining Soil

Fiddle leaf figs are not fans of soggy feet, so it’s crucial to use well-draining soil that allows excess water to escape freely. Look for a high-quality potting mix specifically formulated for tropical plants or make your own by combining equal parts peat moss, perlite, and pine bark (also called orchid bark). 

Avoid heavy soils that retain moisture for too long, as they can lead to root rot and other problems. But also remember, the lighter your soil, the more frequently you will need to water, but the harder it is to overwater! (So if you have issues with over-watering your plants, try adding more perlite to your soil mixes! hint, hint!)

Repotting Guidelines

As your fiddle leaf fig grows, it will eventually outgrow its pot and need to be repotted. Keep an eye out for signs such as roots poking out of the drainage holes or pushing against the sides of the pot. 

Also, if you are having to water your fiddle leaf fig more often than usual, it could also be a sign that it is time to repot.

Spring is the best time to repot your fiddle leaf fig, as it’s entering its active growing season, but if you need to, then you can repot it during any season. When repotting, gently loosen the roots and untangle any circling roots. Place the plant in its new pot, adding fresh soil around the roots. Then, don’t forget to give your fiddle leaf fig a good drink after repotting to help it settle into its new home.

By following these potting and soil tips, you’ll provide your fiddle leaf fig with all the space it needs to succeed indoors.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Care: Water Requirements

This plant loves water… when it’s dry! The best way to water your fig tree is to wait until the soil is dry (feeling the top 1 inch of the soil to be sure), then water it thoroughly. In this case, “thoroughly” means to water it until there is water coming out the drainage holes. Let it sit for a few minutes, then empty any excess water. If you don’t have a pot with drainage holes, I would suggest that you add only enough water that it will dry out every 3 days or so (a bit longer in the winter, but dries out faster in the summer). This is your sweet spot. Just remember to water it less in the winter, and more in the summer.

One trick with the fiddle leaf figs that I’ve heard is that if your plant is getting too dry, its newest leaves will turn brown and die. On the other hand, if the plant is getting too much water, its older leaves will shrivel up and die. Just a good thing to use to troubleshoot any watering problems…

Brown spots on your plant? Find out what is causing it with this in-depth picture guide of fiddle-leaf fig brown spots!

And another bonus tip, since I’m apparently full of them today, is that if your fiddle’s large leaves are drooping, it could be a sign of your plant needing water. But if the leaves are yellowing and falling off, it could be a sign of too much water. Just be sure to feel the soil. Stick your finger down a few inches of soil and feel if it is wet or dry. If it is wet, then don’t water it. If it is dry, then your fiddle leaf fig would love some more water!

Fertilizing

Now that we’ve covered watering, let’s talk about feeding your fiddle leaf fig the nutrients it needs to thrive. Here are some fertilizing tips based on my own experiences in keeping my plant happy and healthy.

Importance of Balanced Fertilization

Just like humans need a balanced diet to stay healthy, fiddle leaf figs require regular feeding to support their growth and development. Look for a well-balanced liquid fertilizer specifically formulated for houseplants. If you have a garden fertilizer, I’ve found that a good rule of thumb is to dilute it to half strength to avoid overfeeding. Or just buy a houseplant fertilizer. There are plenty of them on the market. This is the houseplant fertilizer that I personally use and love!

Types of Fertilizers Suitable for Fiddle Leaf Figs

When it comes to choosing a fertilizer, there are plenty of options out there. I prefer to use a fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) to promote overall plant health. You can also opt for a fertilizer specially designed for foliage plants, (Or a blend that is high in Nitrogen) which will provide the specific nutrients your fiddle leaf fig needs to thrive.

Fertilizing Schedule

First off, I would always follow the instructions on the back of your label for frequency of use. Some fertilizers are stronger than others, and some are slow-release (meaning they fertilize your plant over the course of several weeks). I also know that the Miracle Gro version of indoor plant food is actually a REALLY low dosage (something like 1-1-1), so it can be added every single time that you water your plants (because you aren’t adding that much each time. 

That being said, it is best to fertilize your fiddle leaf fig during the growing season (spring and summer). During the dormant season (fall and winter), you can cut back to fertilizing at half the frequency, or skip it altogether if your plant isn’t actively growing. Remember, less is more when it comes to fertilizing – it’s better to under-fertilize than overdo it and risk burning your plant’s roots.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree: Additional Care Tips

Avoiding Drafty Areas

While fiddle leaf figs enjoy a breath of fresh air, they’re not fans of drafty spots. Drafts can stress out these sensitive plants and lead to leaf drop or other issues. So, when choosing a location, steer clear of drafty areas near doors, windows, or air vents. Instead, opt for a cozy corner where your fiddle leaf fig can bask in the warmth without any chilly interruptions.

Don’t Move Locations

My second additional tip is to make sure that once you position your plant to its perfect location, that you do not move it! All indoor fig trees don’t do well with change. If you need to move it, expect there to be a few weeks of leaf drop, followed be another few weeks of recovery time. This is just what fig trees do when they are moved locations…

How to Make your FLF Bushy

The last tip I have for you is in getting your fiddle-leaf fig plant to look bushy. A lot of times people buy a single stalk that looks great, until it gets tall and thin. What you want to do, though, is to hold out until it grows to within a few feet of the height you want it to stay at. Then, cut off the top 1-2 feet of the plant. (Make sure there are still at least half a dozen leaves on your remaining tree!) When the top is cut, the plant will stop putting its energy into vertical growth, and will instead start growing out its lateral branches. This will give you that tall, bushy structure that you’ve been wanting without it branching all the way up the entire trunk. This process will take a while, but believe me… it will be well worth it!

Cleaning the Leaves

Over time, dust can accumulate on your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves, which can interfere with its ability to photosynthesize and thrive. Give your plant a spa day every now and then by gently wiping down its leaves with a damp cloth or sponge. Not only will this remove any dust or grime, but it’ll also leave your fiddle leaf fig looking fresh and rejuvenated. It can also help to wipe away any insects that might be trying to establish a home in your plant. So overall, cleaning the leaves is a win-win situation!

Common Pests Affecting Fiddle Leaf Figs Indoors

Fiddle leaf figs can fall victim to a variety of pests, including mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects. Keep an eye out for signs such as sticky residue, tiny webs, or yellowing leaves (with no change in location or watering), which may indicate the presence of pests. Early detection is key to preventing a full-blown infestation, so be sure to inspect your plant regularly!

But if you do get an infestation, you do have a few options at your disposal. For minor infestations, try spraying your fiddle leaf fig with a mixture of water and mild dish soap to suffocate the pests. You can also wipe down the leaves with rubbing alcohol to remove any stubborn critters. For more severe infestations, though, you may need to resort to chemical pesticides, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully and avoid overdoing it.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even the most well-cared-for fiddle leaf figs can run into trouble from time to time, but don’t panic! With a little know-how and some quick thinking, you can overcome common issues and keep your plant thriving. Here are some troubleshooting tips based on my own experiences with these guys…

Leaf Droopiness or Browning

If your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves are drooping or turning brown, it could be a sign of underwatering, overwatering, or exposure to drafts. Check the soil moisture levels and adjust your watering routine as needed, and make sure your plant is situated in a draft-free location with stable temperatures.

Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing leaves can indicate a variety of issues, including nutrient deficiencies, overwatering, or pests. However, nine times out of ten the issue is overwatering. Take a close look at your plant and assess its watering, fertilizing, and pest control routines to identify the underlying cause. Also be sure to place your finger in the soil to see if it is moist. Or consider buying a soil moisture meter that you can use to see if the soil is moist further down in the pot. Then adjust as necessary to restore your fiddle leaf fig to health.

Leaf Loss

It’s normal for fiddle leaf figs to shed a few leaves now and then, especially as they acclimate to their environment or undergo changes in care. However, excessive leaf loss can be a cause for concern. Especially if you haven’t moved your plant recently. The biggest cause of leaf loss that I have found has been due to drafts or insects (usually spider mites). If you are seeing excessive leaf loss, then check one of these problems.

Addressing Root Rot

Root rot is a common issue in fiddle leaf figs caused by overwatering or poor drainage. If you suspect root rot, carefully remove your plant from its pot and inspect the roots. Trim away any mushy or discolored roots, repot your plant in fresh, well-draining soil, and adjust your watering routine to prevent future problems.

I’ve also heard that by adding hydrogen peroxide to your roots, that it can kill some of the bacteria that is causing the root rot. I haven’t personally done a bacterial swab on my plant roots pre- and post- hydrogen peroxide, but it does seem to help when I use it on a plant that is starting to have root rot in its root ball. 

How to Propagate Fiddle Leaf Figs

Propagation Through Stem Cuttings

One of the easiest ways to propagate a fiddle leaf fig is through stem cuttings. Simply snip off a healthy, leafy stem from your plant, making sure it’s at least 6 inches long and has a few nodes (where leaves are attached). Remove any leaves from the lower portion of the cutting, (to expose a few nodes), then place it in a glass of water or potting mix to encourage root growth.

Rooting in Water or Soil

You can root your fiddle leaf fig cuttings in either water or soil, depending on your preference. If using water, change the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent rot. If rooting directly in soil, make a small hole in the soil with a pencil or chopstick, then gently dip the cutting in rooting hormone (shaking off the excess powder), then insert the cutting and firm the soil around it. Keep the soil evenly moist and provide bright, indirect light to encourage root development.

Providing the BEST Conditions for Successful Propagation

Successful propagation depends on providing the right conditions for root growth. Keep your cuttings in a warm, environment with plenty of indirect light, and be patient – it can take several weeks for roots to form. Another tip you can use is if you live in an area with low relative humidity, you could place an old bottle or container over the cutting. This will raise the humidity levels surrounding your cutting and can cause it to root faster. Once your cuttings have established roots, you can transplant them into their own pots and watch them grow into full-fledged fiddle leaf figs.

So there you have it! That’s how to care for your fiddle leaf fig plant! If you liked this article, please share it using the social tabs! And be sure to watch the videos above. For as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words… then I’m not sure how many words a video is worth?! But anyways, enjoy your beautiful fiddle leaf fig and have a fabulous day!

Happy Digging!

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FAQ’s:

How do you care for a fiddle leaf fig plant indoors?

To care for fiddle leaf fig plants indoors, make sure that it gets enough light, meaning that it gets bright, indirect light throughout the day. Then water it thoroughly once the top inch of soil has dried. And finally, find a place in your home where your FLF is happy, then don’t move it!

Why are fiddle leaf figs so hard to care for?

Fiddle leaf figs can be hard to care for if a person is not giving their plant enough sunlight, is giving it too much sunlight, or is constantly moving their plant from location to location. If these things are corrected, then fiddle leaf figs can be simple to care for. One only need to understand the core concepts of light, water, and soil that are covered in my course, Indoor Plants Accelerated!

How do you keep a fiddle leaf fig happy?

To keep a fiddle leaf fig happy, you must place it in a location where it gets bright, indirect light for most of the day. One of the best places I’ve found has been in an east-facing window where it can receive some direct sun in the morning, then be shaded in the afternoon. If you get the lighting right, then only water once the top inch of the soil is dry. And finally, make sure that you don’t move your FLF. Once it is in a location that it likes, it does not do well when it is moved!

Do fiddle leaf figs need direct sunlight?

No. Fiddle leaf figs can grow just fine in indirect sunlight only. Hot, direct sunlight can actually burn the green leaves of the FLF. But if it receives more light (like morning direct sunlight), then it should grow faster and larger for you!

How to Grow Mimosa pudica Indoors | Sensitive Plant Care

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Have you ever heard of a plant that moves when you tickle it? Sounds like something out of a whimsical fairy tale, right? Well, it’s not a product of fantasy but a fascinating reality called the sensitive plant. With the scientific name of Mimosa pudica, this popular houseplant has captured the hearts of plant enthusiasts and skeptics alike. Why? Because it brings the magic of nature right into your living room. Imagine having a friend over, and as you gently touch the fern-like leaves of your sensitive plant, they immediately fold up, eliciting gasps of surprise and delight. It’s like having your very own botanical showpiece!

Growing a sensitive plant indoors isn’t just about the awe-inspiring reactions it has to physical touch. It’s a journey filled with learning, patience, and, let’s be honest, a bit of trial and error. But don’t let that daunt you! With a dollop of dedication and the right care tips up your sleeve, you can foster a thriving sensitive plant that might just become the talking point of your home. From the perfect soils to the nitty-gritty of watering schedules, this guide will walk you through the essentials of bringing your sensitive plant from seed to spectacular.

So, grab your gardening gloves, and let’s dig into the delightful world of growing sensitive plants indoors. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or a budding plant parent, there’s something incredibly rewarding about nurturing these responsive creatures.

Key Features of the Sensitive Plant

I wanted to start off with a few facts about the sensitive plant, also called the touch-me-not plant, shame plant, or humble plant. Because when we understand where our plants come from, we can then understand how to nurture them in our homes. 

Why is it Called a Sensitive Plant?

The sensitive plant, or Mimosa pudica, earns its common names from the remarkable way it responds to touch. When you brush your fingers against its leaves, they fold inward and droop down, almost as if they’re shy or attempting to defend themselves from potential harm. This isn’t just a party trick; it’s an evolutionary adaptation that protects the plant from predators in the wild. But don’t worry, the leaves of the mimosa pudica bounce back in no time, ready for the next gentle touch or gust of wind. It’s this dynamic interaction that makes it a favorite among garden enthusiasts!

Natural Habitat of the Sensitive Plant

The sensitive plant is in fact a tropical plant that is native to the tropical regions of Central America and South America, where it thrives in warm, humid environments such as tropical rainforests. To help it flourish indoors, replicating these tropical climates is crucial. Mimosa pudica requires sunlight and humidity to thrive, even in city settings. Understanding its natural habitat can assist in providing the necessary care for this plant in your indoor environments.

By acknowledging the plant’s origins and its unique sensitivity to touch, you can effectively care for a sensitive plant.

Step-by-Step Guide: Starting Sensitive Plants from Seed

Growing a sensitive plant from seed is a fascinating journey. Here’s the straightforward process to turn seeds into touch-responsive plants:

Germinating Sensitive Plant Seeds

First things first, let’s get those seeds ready to sprout. Sensitive plant seeds have a bit of a reputation for being, well, sensitive. Here’s a tried-and-true method to wake them up:

  • Soak the seeds: Start by soaking the seeds in warm water for 24 hours. This softens the hard outer shell and tells them it’s time to get growing.
  • Prepare your soil: While they’re soaking, get a small pot filled with a mix of potting soil and sand. Make sure it’s well-draining because soggy conditions are a no-go.
  • Sow the seeds: After their spa day, place the seeds on the soil surface and cover them lightly with more soil. They’re shy and don’t like to be buried too deep.
  • Moisture and warmth: Sensitive plant seeds germinate best in warm conditions. Keep the soil moist (not soaking) and in a warm spot but out of direct sunlight. You can also cover the pot with clear plastic such as an old bottle or plastic wrap to help boost the humidity while the seed is just starting out.

Keep an eye out, because in about 1-2 weeks, you should see the first signs of life as tiny green shoots break through the soil. It’s a moment of pure gardening bliss, trust me.

Transplanting Seedlings Into Pots

Once your seedlings have a few true leaves, it’s time for their next big move. Transplanting might sound daunting, but it’s just about giving your plant babies a new home with a little more room to grow.

  • Choose the right pot: A small pot with good drainage holes is key. Remember, sensitive plants don’t like wet feet.
  • Be gentle: Handle the tiny seedlings with care, especially their delicate roots. Use a spoon or a small stick to ease them out of their nursery soil.
  • The transplanting dance: Make a small hole in the soil of their new pot, settle your seedling in, and gently firm the soil around them. Water them lightly to help them settle in and place them in enough sunlight to have them grow, without burning their leaves.

Congratulations! You’ve just completed the nursery phase of the sensitive plant’s life. As they grow, these little troopers will need your care and attention, but seeing them respond to your touch for the first time is nothing short of magical. Ready for the next steps in the journey? Let’s keep the momentum going!

Sensitive Plants in Pots – Getting the Soil Right

Proper soil mix is key for your sensitive plant’s success. Learn how to create the ideal potting environment to keep your plant thriving and responsive. Follow these steps to ensure your sensitive plant is healthy and active.

Choosing the Right Soil Mix

Imagine wearing a tight, uncomfortable pair of shoes all day. Not fun, right? Well, the wrong soil mix can feel just as constricting to your sensitive plant. Here’s how to get it right:

  • Airy and light: Aim for a loamy soil mix that’s well-aerated and lightweight. This ensures the roots can breathe and grow without getting waterlogged.
  • Drainage is key: Add materials like perlite, coarse sand, or even a handful of small pebbles to promote better drainage within the pot.
  • Don’t forget nutrients: While drainage is important, so is feeding your plant. A mix that includes compost or worm castings will give your sensitive plant the boost it needs.

Getting the right blend might take a little experimentation, but when you see your sensitive plant thriving, you’ll know you’ve nailed it.

Selecting the Perfect Pot

Now, let’s talk pots. The right pot not only complements your home decor but also supports the health of your plant:

  • Size matters: Start with a pot that’s not too large. A pot that’s too spacious can lead to overwatering issues, as the soil stays damp for too long.
  • Material counts: Terra cotta or other breathable materials are fantastic for sensitive plants. They allow air and moisture to move through more freely than plastic pots.
  • Drainage holes are a must: This cannot be stressed enough. Ensure your pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent water from pooling at the bottom.

Choosing a pot is like picking a home for your plant; it needs to be just right for growth and health.

The Importance of Proper Drainage

Why all this fuss about drainage, you ask? Well, too much water is the arch-nemesis of this shy plant. It can lead to root rot, a villainous condition that spells doom for our green friends. Proper drainage ensures that water flows through the soil, moistening it just enough without waterlogging. It’s all about creating a comfortable, cozy environment for those roots to spread out and soak up the good stuff. Remember, happy roots equal a happy plant.

By focusing on the right soil mix, selecting the ideal pot, and ensuring proper drainage, you’re setting the stage for your sensitive plant to put on its best performance. Now, who’s ready to be the director of their very own leafy show?

Optimal Growing Conditions for Sensitive Plants Indoors

Growing a healthy sensitive plant indoors is all about meeting its specific needs. By understanding what it requires and providing the right environment, you can ensure your plant flourishes and stays happy. Let’s discover the ideal conditions that will help your sensitive plant thrive.

Lighting Requirements

Light is absolutely essential to your plant, especially indoors. Your sensitive plant desires bright, indirect light to flourish. Think of a spot near a window that’s draped with a sheer curtain, allowing soft sunlight to filter through. An ideal location would be an east-facing window where it could get a few hours of sun in the morning, but be shaded from the hot, afternoon light. This mimics the dappled sunlight of its natural habitat beneath taller trees and shrubs. Direct, harsh sunlight can be overwhelming, leading to leaf burn, while not enough light might stunt its growth and reduce responsiveness. Finding bright light that isn’t burning your plant is tricky, but when you get it right, your plant will thank you!

Watering: How Much and How Often

Watering is a bit of an art form. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, not drenched. Overwatering is a common misstep that can lead to root rot, while under-watering can stress the plant, causing it to shut down and stop performing its characteristic movements. A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. And always ensure that excess water can drain freely to avoid soggy conditions. You want moist soil for several days, then you want it to dry out a bit before watering.

Temperature and Humidity Needs

Remember, the sensitive plant is a tropical soul at heart. It thrives in warm temperatures and high humidity. Aim to keep your indoor garden oasis between 60-75°F (15-24°C). If your home feels dry, especially during the winter months, a humidifier can work wonders, or you might place the pot atop a tray filled with water and pebbles to increase humidity levels naturally. Just be sure the pot isn’t sitting directly in water.

Fertilizing Your Sensitive Plant

Feeding your plant is like providing a buffet of nutrients. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer applied every 4-6 weeks during the growing season will do the trick. However, moderation is key. Think of fertilizing as providing a well-rounded diet – too much can lead to nutrient burn, whereas too little might starve your plant. Finding that nutritional balance will encourage lush growth and ensure your plant remains lively and interactive. I’ve found that sensitive plants enjoy a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to give them a fast burst of new growth, especially in the spring, or late summer before they go dormant.

Common Challenges in Growing Sensitive Plants

Let’s face it, growing a sensitive plant can sometimes feel like you’re navigating through a jungle of challenges. But don’t let that deter you! Most obstacles are just stepping stones on the path to becoming a seasoned plant parent. Here’s how to tackle two of the most common hiccups you might encounter in growing your sensitive plant.

Dealing with Pests and Diseases

No garden is an island,even indoors, and sometimes unwanted guests show up to the party. Spider mites, aphids, and fungal infections can crash your sensitive plant’s vibe, leading to droopy leaves and a lackluster appearance. But fear not, for there are weapons in your arsenal:

  • Stay vigilant: Regular check-ups are key. Catching pests early can prevent an infestation.
  • Neem oil is a good idea: A natural insecticide, neem oil can ward off pests without harming your plant.
  • Aeration is crucial: Ensure your plant has good airflow to prevent fungal diseases. A cramped and humid environment is a breeding ground for trouble.
  • Dry leaves: After watering, make sure the leaves aren’t left wet, as this can attract fungi. If possible, water the soil directly to avoid getting the leaves wet.

Remember, the key is prevention. A healthy plant is less likely to succumb to pests and diseases.

Overcoming Low Germination Rates

Starting your sensitive plant from seed can sometimes feel like a gamble. But don’t fret if your first attempt doesn’t result in a greenhouse. Here’s how to up your odds:

  • Quality seeds: Make sure your seeds are fresh and sourced from a reputable vendor. Old or improperly stored seeds have lower germination rates.
  • Pre-soak: Soaking seeds before planting encourages them to wake up and get growing.
  • Consistent temperatures: Sensitive plant seeds like it warm. Consider using a heat mat to maintain a cozy germination environment.
  • Patience is key: Sometimes, seeds take their sweet time. Don’t give up too quickly; wait a few weeks before calling it quits.

Low germination rates can be discouraging, but they’re also an opportunity to learn and refine your approach. With each attempt, you’ll get closer to sprouting your very own sensitive plant.

Whether you’re battling pests or coaxing seeds to sprout, remember that challenges in gardening are par for the course. They offer chances to grow—not just for your plants, but for you as a caregiver and enthusiast. Armed with knowledge and a bit of persistence, you’ll find that these common hurdles only add to the rewarding experience of growing a sensitive plant.

Propagating Sensitive Plants

Ever wish you could clone your favorite sensitive plant? Good news—you can! Propagation is the plant parent’s version of a magic trick, turning one plant into two (or more)! Whether you’re a propagation pro or trying it for the first time, let’s dive into the two main methods of multiplying your sensitive plant family.

Using Seeds for Propagation

Starting from seeds is a journey of patience and excitement. It’s like hitting the plant jackpot when those tiny seedlings finally peek through the soil. Here’s how to ensure your seed propagation is a success:

For growing sensitive plants from seeds, refer to the previous tips mentioned for general seed propagation success.

Remember, while seed propagation is super rewarding, it takes time. Be patient, and you’ll see your efforts bloom before your eyes.

Cutting Propagation Methods

The best way to propagate your sensitive plant is through taking stem cuttings. Plus, it’s a bit like ensuring your new plants have the same awesome personality as the parent. Here’s your cutting propagation cheat sheet:

  • Choose healthy stems: Look for vibrant, healthy stems that are free from pests or damage.
  • Make the cut: Using sharp, clean scissors, cut just below a leaf node (that’s where the leaf joins the stem). Your cutting should be around 4-6 inches long.
  • Rooting hormone: Dip the cut end into rooting hormone. This isn’t a must, but it can help speed up the rooting process.
  • Plant your cutting: Stick the cutting into a moist potting mix. Keep it warm and moist, and in a few weeks, you should see new growth.

Whether you choose seeds or cuttings, propagating your sensitive plant offers a delightful peek into the circle of plant life. Each method has its charms and challenges, but the end result—a new plant to love and care for—makes the journey worthwhile. So why not give it a go? Your indoor jungle (and maybe a friend or two) will thank you for it.

How to Grow Sensitive Plants Outdoors

Taking your sensitive plant outdoors can feel a bit like sending your kid off to camp for the first time. Exciting, but slightly nerve-wracking. However, with the right conditions and a little prep, your sensitive plant can thrive and become one with nature. Let’s explore how to transition your indoor buddy to the great outdoors.

Outdoor Climate Requirements

The sensitive plant is tropical at heart, which means it has a preference for warm, humid climates. If you’re living in a region with mild winters, you might be able to grow your sensitive plant outdoors year-round. And for more technical terms, sensitive plant can survive between usda hardiness zones 9 to 11. Here’s the scoop on how to keep one alive outdoors:

  • Temperature: Keep in mind that Mimosa pudica doesn’t do well in temperatures below 60°F (15°C). If your area drops cooler than this, consider growing it as an annual or bringing it indoors when the temperature falls.
  • Sunlight: Choose a spot that gets filtered sunlight. Direct, full sun can be too much for the sensitive plant, leading to burnt leaves. Think ‘sun hat’ rather than ‘sunbathing’.
  • Soil: Just like indoors, your sensitive plant will love well-draining soil. If your garden soil is heavy, consider amending it with sand or growing your plant in a raised bed or well-draining pot.

Your outdoor space can be the perfect summer holiday spot for your sensitive plant, provided the conditions are just right.

Transitioning Indoor Plants Outdoors

Moving our indoor houseplants plant from the cozy indoors to the variable outdoors is a bit like acclimatizing to a new culture—it takes time and gentle exposure. Here’s how to make the transition smooth:

  • Start slow: Begin by placing your plant outside for a few hours each day in the shade or a partial shade area. Gradually increase the time it spends outdoors over the course of a week or two.
  • Avoid sunburn: Just like humans can get sunburned, plants can too. Ensure the first few outdoor excursions are in indirect sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
  • Monitor closely: Keep an eye on how your plant reacts to the outdoor environment. If you notice any signs of distress, such as wilting or browning leaves, adjust its location or bring it back inside sooner.

Transitioning your sensitive plant outdoors is a chance for it to enjoy the natural elements, from the caress of a summer breeze to the joy of unfiltered daylight. With a bit of care and attention, your plant will not only survive outdoors but truly flourish.

Growing a sensitive plant outdoors is an adventure, peppered with both challenges and rewards. It’s a testament to the resilience and adaptability of both the plant and the gardener. So, why not take the leap and give your sensitive plant a taste of the great outdoors? The fresh air, natural light, and expanded growing space might just bring out the best in your leafy friend.

Conclusion: Keeping Your Sensitive Plant Thriving

Master the art of nurturing your mimosa pudica plants for lifelong companionship. Here are the key essentials:

  • Perfect the soil and potting mix that allows for plenty of drainage.
  • Provide bright, indirect sunlight and a warm, humid setting.
  • Water wisely to keep the soil lightly moist.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases proactively.
  • Propagate for extra plant happiness.
  • Above all, enjoy growing one of these beautiful moving houseplants!.

Here’s to many rewarding years ahead!

FAQs

How Often Should I Water My Sensitive Plant?

For your sensitive plant, use the “touch test”. Stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle; if it’s dry, it’s time to water. This may be around once a week but varies based on plant size, pot, indoor climate, and season. Keep the soil evenly moist for your sensitive plant’s preference for consistency, akin to the perfect cup of tea balance. Yellow leaves could be a sign you are over-watering your sensitive plant.

Can Sensitive Plants Bloom Indoors?

Yes, they can! Under the right conditions, sensitive plants will bless you with pink, fluffy flowers that look like tiny pom-poms cheering you on. To increase your chances of seeing these blooms, ensure your plant gets plenty of indirect light, warmth, and humidity. And remember, patience is key. Just like waiting for your favorite series to drop a new season, anticipation is part of the fun!

Why Are My Sensitive Plant’s Leaves Not Closing?

If your plant is giving you the silent treatment and not closing its leaves, it might be feeling a bit under the weather. Common culprits include overwatering, underwatering, lack of light, or even just the need for some time to adjust to a new environment. Review your care routine and adjust as needed. Sometimes, all it takes is a bit of detective work to get back on speaking terms. And don’t worry, sensitive plants are forgiving. With a bit of TLC, those leaves will be moving again in no time.

Remember, growing a sensitive plant is a journey filled with learning, experimenting, and enjoying the small victories along the way. Whether you’re troubleshooting, watering, or eagerly awaiting blooms, every moment is a step towards becoming a more attentive and responsive plant parent. Happy gardening!

31 Fuzzy Succulent Plants that make you go “Awww!”

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Post Title "31 Fuzzy Succulents that make you go Aww..." with image of panda plant on white background.

Hello succulent lovers! If you’re like me, you can never have enough of these adorable plants in your home. And what’s better than a fuzzy succulent? I’m excited to share with you my top 31 favorite fuzzy succulents that will add a unique and cozy touch to your indoor garden. Whether you’re new to succulents or a seasoned collector, there’s a fuzzy plant out there for everyone. So, let’s dive in and explore these irresistible, tender succulents that will make your heart melt!

What are fuzzy succulent plants?

A fuzzy succulent is a type of plant that exhibits hairy or woolly structures on its leaves or stems, which are often used for water retention and protection from environmental stresses. This characteristic is commonly found in plants belonging to the Crassulaceae, Asteraceae, and Malvaceae families. The fuzzy texture of succulents can range from a light fuzz to dense woolly covering, and can serve as an adaptation to various ecological niches, including arid and high-altitude environments.

These specialized hairy or fuzzy leaves can range in texture from a fine down that is nearly invisible to the naked eye, to a more noticeable fuzziness. You’ll find that touching these plants is an absolute delight, and their fuzzy texture adds a unique dimension to your houseplant collection.

General Care Tips for Fuzzy Succulents

Fuzzy succulents generally require well-draining soil, bright but indirect light, and infrequent watering. They can usually tolerate some direct sunlight, but this is usually not quite as much full sun than their non-fuzzy relatives.

It’s important, though, not to overwater them as their fuzzy leaves can trap moisture among the hairs, which can lead to damage on the leaves and possible root rot. So when watering, make sure to add only a little water, or drain out any excess water from the soil through the pot’s drainage hole.

Then, as with most succulents, fertilizing should be done sparingly, if at all. And only in the summer months. Never fertilize your succulents in the winter months when the plant is not actively growing.

One of the biggest things that sets fuzzy succulent care apart from regular succulents is that fuzzy succulents tend to trap dust on their leaves.  Normally this is taken care of outdoors by the wind, but since we typically don’t have high winds indoors, your fuzzy succulents would need to be periodically wiped down with a dry, soft cloth to remove any dust and debris that has gotten stuck on their leaves.

For more succulent care tips, check out my post on Taking Care of Succulents!

*Note: This post may contain affiliate links, which if purchased, I may receive a portion of the profits. This allows me to keep providing awesome information for you!*

1. Kalanchoe tomentosa

Kalanchoe tomentosa, also known as the Panda Plant or Teddy Bear Plant, is a fuzzy succulent that is perfect for plant lovers with furry friends. Its soft, silvery leaves are covered in tiny hairs, giving it a cuddly, teddy bear-like appearance. Not only is it safe for cats, but it also adds a touch of coziness to any space. And, a native of Madagascar, this fun succulent always makes me think of not just a panda bear, but specifically of King Julian from the movie Madagascar! Haha!

Get a Panda Plant!

2. Echeveria Setosa var. Deminuta

Echeveria setosa var. deminuta is a charming succulent with small, fuzzy leaves that resemble tiny sea anemones. This unique plant is known for its rosettes of grayish-green foliage that are covered in fine hairs, adding a touch of softness to its already delicate appearance. Its diminutive size makes it perfect for small spaces or as a feature in a succulent arrangement. It will also easily reward you with a new plant stemming from the sides of each rosette!

Get an Echeveria setosa var. Deminuta!

3. Echeveria Doris Taylor

Echeveria Doris Taylor is a stunning succulent with a soft and fuzzy appearance, reminiscent of lamb’s ear. Its rosettes of thick, powdery blue-green leaves are covered in fine white hairs, giving it a cozy and velvety texture. If it is in a bright, warm climate, this slow-growing plant will bloom in late fall or early winter, producing a tall stalk of delicate peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage. 

​Get an Echeveria Doris Taylor!

4. Crassula lanuginosa var. Pachystemon ‘David’

Crassula lanuginosa var. pachystemon ‘David’ doesn’t look like your typical jade plants. Instead, its thick, almost bonsai-like trunk and densely packed leaves can cascade down the sides of its pot more like a Burro’s tail succulent. Its fuzzy, silver-green foliage forms a neat, compact rosette that contrasts beautifully with its woody stem. This slow-growing plant is perfect for bonsai enthusiasts or as a statement piece in a succulent arrangement.

Get a David Crassula!

Photo by The Succulent Garden

5. Echeveria pulvinata x setosa

Echeveria pulvinata x setosa is a stunning hybrid succulent with a velvety, soft texture and a rosette shape that resembles a flower. Its leaves are covered in fine hairs that give it a fuzzy appearance, with colors ranging from blue-green to reddish-brown. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a touch of elegance to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or as a unique gift for plant enthusiasts.

Get an Echeveria pulvinata x setosa!

6. Sempervivum Ciliosum

Sempervivum Ciliosum, with the common name of the Eyelash Houseleek, is a charming succulent with a unique appearance that resembles a tiny, green rose. Its compact rosettes of fleshy, pointed leaves have tiny hairs, or “eyelashes,” that protrude from the tips, adding an extra dimension of texture and visual interest. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers in the summer, making it an excellent addition to any rock garden or succulent arrangement.

Get an Eyelash Houseleek!

7. Crested Echeveria Frosty

Crested Echeveria Frosty is a captivating succulent with a unique and beautiful appearance. Its intricately curved leaves form a rosette shape, which is further accentuated by its crested growth pattern. The frosty blue-green leaves have a powdery texture, adding to its delicate and ethereal appearance. This slow-growing plant blooms in the spring, producing tall stems of peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage, making it an ideal plant for succulent enthusiasts who appreciate rare and distinctive specimens.

Get a Crested Echeveria Frosty!

Photo by Mountain Crest Gardens

8. Aeonium Dinner Plate

Aeonium Dinner Plate is a striking succulent with a unique and eye-catching appearance. Its large, flat rosettes of glossy leaves can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, resembling a plate, hence its name. The leaves range in color from green to deep burgundy and have small hairs along the leaf edges. This slow-growing plant produces tall stems of yellow flowers in the summer, making it a perfect addition to any succulent garden or patio where its striking beauty can be admired by all.

Get an Aeonium Dinner Plate!

9. Crassula mesembryanthemoides

Crassula mesembryanthemoides is a charming succulent with a unique and fascinating appearance. Its dense clusters of gray-green, hairy leaves form a dense mat-like structure, making it an excellent ground cover plant. The leaves are triangular and pointed, with a powdery texture that gives them a frosted appearance. This slow-growing plant produces small white or pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a delicate touch to its already intriguing look. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, bringing a touch of beauty and diversity.

Get yourself a Crassula mesembryanthemhttps://www.etsy.com/listing/1430425188/crassula-mesembryanthemoides?gpla=1&gao=1&oides!

10. Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans”

Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans’ is a delightful succulent with a unique and charming appearance. Its thick, green leaves are shaped like little beans and are tightly packed together in rosettes that can grow up to 6 inches in diameter. The leaves have a fleshy texture and a glossy sheen, on their leaf surface, making them look almost plastic-like. Don’t forget to water it though! This slow-growing plant produces delicate white or pink flowers in the summer. This makes it an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, especially for those who appreciate rare and unusual specimens.

Get yourself a Green Bean Crassula!

11. Kalanchoe orgyalis

Kalanchoe orgyalis is one of my favorite succulents. It has a unique appearance with elongated, fuzzy, and copper-colored leaves that look almost like they’re made of velvet. The leaves’ edges have a smooth texture that adds to the plant’s charm. This slow-growing succulent produces clusters of delicate pink flowers that add a pop of color to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, and the fuzziness of the leaves makes it a favorite of mine to touch and admire.

Get a Kalanchoe orgyalis!

Photo by Succulents Depot

12. Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’

Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is a unique and fascinating succulent that I can’t help but love. Its round, green body is covered in tiny white spines that make it look fuzzy and almost soft to the touch. The plant’s spines make it unique and fascinating, and its slow growth rate makes it a perfect choice for indoor gardening. The plant produces large, showy pink flowers that add to its already attractive look. Whether placed on a windowsill or in a terrarium, ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection.

Get yourself a Fuzzy Navel succulent!

13. Cotyledon Tomentosa – Bear Paw

Cotyledon Tomentosa, also known as the Bear’s Paw, is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance resembling the paw of a bear. Its rounded, furry leaves are covered in tiny hairs, and the tips are adorned with sharp, claw-like protrusions. This slow-growing plant produces delicate, tubular flowers in shades of orange or yellow in the summer, adding a touch of color to its already charming appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, especially for those who love animals.

Get yourself a Bear Paw!

14. Crassula brevifolia

Crassula brevifolia is a perfect succulent for an indoor setting. Its round, fuzzy leaves grow in a rosette pattern that adds a unique and charming touch to any room. The plant’s thick leaves have a soft texture that invites you to touch them, and they’re easy to care for, making them a great choice for indoor gardening. This succulent thrives in bright, indirect sunlight and requires infrequent watering. It’s an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection, adding a touch of greenery and coziness to your living space.

Get a Crassula brevifolia!

15. Kalanchoe eriophylla

Kalanchoe eriophylla is a unique and fascinating succulent that can add a charming touch to any indoor space. Its velvety, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that invites you to touch them. The plant is easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for indoor gardening, and it produces beautiful pink showy flowers that add to its already attractive look. This succulent is perfect for adding a pop of color and texture to your indoor succulent collection while keeping your furry friends safe.

Get yourself a Kalanchoe eriophylla!

Photo by Mountain Crest Gardens

16. Crassula mesembryanthemoides ‘Tenelli’ 

Crassula mesembryanthemoides Tenelli is an excellent choice for an indoor succulent collection. The plant’s delicate, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that adds warmth to any room. It’s easy to care for and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it a low-maintenance choice for indoor gardening. Its compact size and attractive look make it perfect for tabletops or shelves, adding a touch of greenery and elegance to your indoor space.

Get a Tenelli Crassula!

17. Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks

Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks is a delightful indoor succulent that adds texture and visual interest to any room. Its web-like fuzziness and small rosette-shaped fleshy leaves make it a unique and attractive addition to your indoor garden. This low-maintenance plant thrives in bright light and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it perfect for busy plant parents. Plus, its pet-safe nature ensures that your furry friends won’t be harmed if they decide to give it a nibble.

Get yourself a Cobweb Hens and Chicks!

18. Kalanchoe tomentosa – Variegated Bear Paw

The Variegated Bear Paw kalanchoe is a striking addition to any indoor collection. Its soft, fuzzy leaves are variegated with cream and green, creating a beautiful contrast. Unlike the original Bear Paw Succulent, this variety has more of a trailing growth habit and can be a great choice for hanging baskets. It’s safe for pets and easy to care for, making it a perfect option for any indoor plant lover.

​Grab a Variegated Bear Paw!

19. Senecio haworthii – Woolly Senecio

The Senecio haworthii, also known as the Woolly Senecio or the Woolly Rose, is a soft, fuzzy succulent that adds a playful touch to any indoor space. Unlike its famous cousin, the string of pearls, this plant has fuzzy, grey-green leaves that are irresistible to touch and pet. This makes it a great addition for anyone who loves tactile plants. Plus, this low-maintenance succulent is perfect for busy plant parents looking for a bit of greenery without the hassle!

Get yourself a Woolly senecio!

20. Cephalocereus senilis – Old Man Cactus

Old Man Cactus, with its shaggy white hairs, is a charming addition to any succulent collection. Its soft and fuzzy texture adds a cozy touch to your indoor space. This plant requires minimal care and can tolerate a variety of indoor conditions, making it an easy choice for any level of plant enthusiast. Its unique appearance is sure to bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

Get an Old Man Cactus!

21. Cyanotis somaliensis – Kitten Ears

Kitten Ears, or Cyanotis somaliensis, is a delightful succulent species that boasts a soft and fuzzy texture reminiscent of a soft, furry kitten’s ears. The plant’s delicate green leaves are adorned with tiny white hairs that give it a cozy and inviting appearance. It’s a perfect addition to any indoor garden or plant collection, adding a touch of charm and playfulness.

Get yourself some Kitten Ears!

Photo by Mountain Crest Gardens

22. Kalanchoe tomentosa ‘Chocolate soldier’

This succulent is a Chocolate Soldier, a type of Kalanchoe tomentosa. Its fuzzy, chocolate-brown leaves give it a unique appearance that I can’t resist touching. The main difference between the regular panda plant and the Chocolate Soldier plants is the color of the hairs on the leaves. While the original has green and white fuzzy succulent leaves, the Chocolate Soldier leaves have a more distinct brown hair color, which makes the leaves look more like chocolate… yummm!

Get a Chocolate Soldier!

23. Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida – White Chenille Plant

Oh, the White Chenille Plant, also known as Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida, is one of my favorite indoor succulents. The fuzzy leaves are irresistible to touch and the plant’s rosette shape is just adorable. Plus, its fuzzy leaves resemble white hairs, and the rosettes form small clumps that make it look like a cute little snowball. This plant thrives in bright light and is easy to care for, making it perfect for succulent beginners.

Get yourself a White Chenille Plant!

Photo by Mountain Crest Gardens

24. Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’

Kalanchoe beharensis, also known as the Felt Bush or Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe, is a unique and fuzzy succulent that is perfect for any indoor plant collection. The leaves are covered in soft, felt-like hairs that make them a pleasure to touch. The silver-green leaves have a scalloped edge and are held on tall, upright stems. Then, with the right care, you could possibly see stalks of delicate pink or white flowers blooming from the head of the plant. This makes it a beautiful addition to any succulent collection!

Get a Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe!

Photo by Mountain Crest Gardens

25. Echeveria setosa – Mexican Firecracker

Looking for a striking, low-maintenance succulent to add to your indoor collection? Look no further than Echeveria setosa, also known as the Mexican Firecracker. This beautiful plant boasts a unique fuzzy texture and bright red-orange tips, adding a pop of color to any space.

Grab yourself a Mexican Firecracker!

26. Tradescantia sillamontana

If you’re looking for a succulent with a unique texture, you should check out the Tradescantia sillamontana, also known as Cobweb Spiderwort. This plant’s fuzzy, silver leaves give it an almost velvety appearance. It’s definitely a conversation starter, and I love the way it adds a touch of softness to any indoor succulent garden. Just be aware, this can be a picky succulent to grow indoors as it loves lots of humidity!

Grab yourself a tradescantia sillamontana!

Photo by Succulents Depot

27. Adromischus cristatus – Key Lime Pie Plant

The Adromischus cristatus, also known as the Crinkle leaf plant or Key Lime Pie plant, has a unique crinkly texture to its leaves that almost looks like it’s been scrunched up like paper. The fuzziness of the leaves makes it all the more interesting to touch and care for. Its vibrant green color and wavy shape give it a playful, fun appearance that’s sure to brighten up any room. 

Buy yourself a Key Lime Pie plant!

28. Aeonium smithii

Aeonium smithii, or the Black Rose, is a beautiful succulent with dark, glossy leaves that almost look black. It’s a bit fuzzy to the touch and adds a nice rosette form to your indoor garden. With proper care, this plant can grow tall and produce stunning rosettes of flowers at the top of the stem. It can be grown indoors as well as outdoors in warmer climates, and is a low maintenance plant that will thrive in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. When exposed to more sun, the red pigmentation in its leaves becomes more vibrant, making it a stunning addition to any succulent collection.

Get yourself a Black Rose Aeonium!

29. Echeveria setosa var. Ciliata

Echeveria setosa var. ciliata is a fuzzy, succulent plant with a unique appearance. Its leaves have hair-like growths that give it a distinct texture, and its pale green color adds to its overall beauty. I love the way it looks in a decorative pot or mixed with other succulents in an arrangement!

Get yourself an Echeveria setosa var. ciliata!

30. Crassula barbata

Crassula barbata, also known as the Bearded-leaved Crassula, is a unique succulent with plump, triangular leaves that are a pale green color. The leaves have a slightly fuzzy texture, which makes this plant all the more charming. This Crassula is a native of South Africa, and as such is a slow grower. But it’s definitely worth the wait for its beautiful rose shape and unique texture.

Get a Bearded-leaved Crassula!

Photo by Succulents Depot

31. Echeveria harmsii

Echeveria harmsii is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance. Its leaves are a dusty blue-green color with a soft velvety texture that is so satisfying to touch. The fuzzy leaves have a striking white outline, and the rosette shape makes it perfect for display in a pot or hanging basket.

Get yourself an Echeveria harmsii!

I hope this list of 31 fuzzy succulents for indoors has inspired you to add some texture and variety to your indoor plant collection. Remember to always research the specific care requirements for each plant and provide them with the appropriate environment to thrive. With a little bit of love and attention, these fuzzy succulents can brighten up your home and bring you joy and fuzzy feelings for years to come! 

Happy Digging!

How to Choose the Best Pots for Succulents (+5 Faves)

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Have you been eyeing a new succulent lately? Or maybe you have a growing collection and just need a new pot? Whether you’re a beginner or a succulent expert, we all need to have one thing right in our succulent care. And that is… we need to choose the right pot!

So what are the best pots for succulents? Today I’m going to tell you exactly what works and what doesn’t work for succulent pots, as well as give you some recommendations of my personal faves. Then if you still have questions, check out my “Frequently Asked Questions” section at the bottom of the page. Or just scroll down to see my top 5 best succulent pots!

Ready?! 

Let’s dig in!

**Note: This post may contains affiliate links, which helps support this website, at no extra cost to you!**

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What Makes the Best Pots?

There are three keys that you need to look for in the right container. The perfect succulent pot would consider:

  • Drainage
  • Material
  • Size

Let’s address these things one at a time.

#1: Proper Drainage

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but let me stress this fact… succulent pots NEED drainage holes!!!!

Technically, you CAN keep succulents alive in pots without drainage holes by simply adding only small amounts of water at a time. I know, because I’ve done this. But speaking from experience, these succulents never thrive like the succulents that I have in my pots with good drainage. This is because when your pots have proper drainage, you can water your plant as much as you want at each watering and the excess water will simply drain out.

But with pots that have no drainage holes (such as the pretty glass containers they show on Pinterest), these pots will leave you to always be fighting your moisture levels, since one little extra watering could potentially kill your whole plant. Personally, I tend to under-water these succulents to avoid accidentally giving them too much water. But as a result, my succulent plants are never as healthy.

So long story short… get a pot with drainage holes! Just do it!

#2: Pot Material

I would argue that pot material is the least important thing out of the three keys for choosing the best pot for succulents. This is because pot material alone will not kill your succulents.

Terra Cotta/Ceramic Pots

Terracotta pots, or ceramic pots, are definitely the best choice for succulent pots. This is due to the fact that the clay can actually soak up some of the excess moisture, giving your plant a little extra buffer between wet and dry phases. Be careful in the winter, though, as wet ceramic pots (in cold temperatures) can take longer to dry out. This could potentially cause overwatering problems for people who tend to water too much in the winter.

So the best pot material for succulents is terra cotta pots, unless you tend to overwater your plants during the winter. 

Plastic Pots

Plastic pots and plastic containers are also a fine choice for succulents as long as they have sufficient drainage, are heavy enough to not tip over, and are not left outdoors.

Some succulents grow more vertically and can become top heavy. Plastic pots are usually lighter and easily fall over in these situations. To fix this, use sand instead of perlite in your succulent soil mix. This will help to weigh down any tipsy pots!

Next, if you are keeping your succulent outdoors, I do not recommend using plastic pots. This is first because of their higher chances of falling over due to their low weight. Second, plastic pots have a tendency to heat up and dry out faster when exposed to high temperature than clay pots or concrete pots. And third, plastic pots can freeze and deteriorate quickly in very cold climates. This is why I only recommend plastic pots for indoor use.

Metal Pots

Metal pots and metal containers usually have the same heat issue as plastic pots. For this reason, you should keep a metal pot indoors only. If you want to move your succulents outdoors, then a good choice would be a terracotta or concrete pot.

Concrete Pots

Concrete pots are similar to clay pots in that they are both a breathable material. Concrete pots are particularly good in outdoor spaces where they will be durable and protective to your succulents. Just be sure to keep in mind that real concrete pots can be extremely heavy. This is good for areas that are prone to high winds (especially if you live within hurricane areas), since your concrete planters will be sure to protect your plants when the weather gets tough!

#3: Size of Pot

Pot size is, in my opinion, the MOST OVERLOOKED problem of succulent killers. Because if your pot is too big, your succulent will die!!! 

This is more of a water problem than a size problem. If you have a large pot, then you will have lots of soil that will be wet. This soil will have water where the small plant roots can’t reach. This extra, unreachable water will cause too much moisture to sit for too long and will lead to root rot.

Even with proper drainage, you need to make sure that the walls of your pot are only an inch or two bigger than your succulents’ current pot (on all sides). This is why a lot of succulent planters tend to be shallow pots that can fit a few succulents together in an arrangement, but that are still shallow enough that the small roots can still reach the bottom of the pot.

Potting Multiple Succulents Together

If you want to pot multiple succulents together in a succulent arrangement or succulent planter, then your best bet is to buy a large, shallow container. Then, make sure that it is stuffed full of succulents! This will help it have enough roots everywhere so you won’t have those pockets of soil that the roots can’t reach…

Pot Recommendations:

  • All-Around Favorite: D’vine Dev Terracotta Pots
  • Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value!): Brajtt Plant Pots
  • Best for a Group of Succulents: Kimisty 10 Inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl
  • Best for Hanging Succulents: Mkono 8 inch Ceramic Hanging Planter
  • Best for Large Succulents: Aveyas 6/8/10 inch Ceramic Planter Pot

#1: All-Around Favorite – Terracotta Pots by D’vine Dev

These pots are fantastic because they are not only terracotta pots, but they also have drainage holes, the perfect-fit saucer, a drainage net (to keep the soil from coming out), and a “scratch pad” to put under your pot. This ensures that your pot has great drainage, but also that it keeps your surfaces dry and scratch-free! 

These guys have really thought of everything that an indoor succulent grower needs out of a pot. And that’s why it’s my all-around favorite set of succulent pots!

#2: Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value) – Brajtt Succulent Pots

These white, modern pots are perfect for your shorter succulents that don’t have deep root systems. I love that each pot has a small drainage hole, and they come with a functional, stylish bamboo tray to catch any excess water before it stains your window ledge.

And to get 8 pots for only $14.99 (at the time of writing this post)… that’s an AMAZING deal!!!

#3: Best for a Group of Succulents – Kimisty 10 inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl

This planter dish is perfect for succulent arrangements or succulent gardens! It is a glazed ceramic pot with a drainage hole and a plug (to keep your surfaces clean!). It also has a gorgeous, airy stand and white decorative rocks to make your succulent garden go from amateur to professional!

I especially love the size of this planter dish, since most are only about 6” long. With this dish coming in at a solid 10” diameter, (choose the “large” size), it fits a lot of succulents!

#4: Best for Hanging Succulents – Mkono 8 Inch Ceramic Hanging Planter

I searched far and wide for the perfect hanging succulent planters, and this is the one that I finally discovered!

It is a sturdy glazed ceramic pot that comes with a removable drainage plug for excess water. It also comes with a rope and pre-drilled holes, so all you need now is a strong hook! This hanging pot is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

#5: Best For Large Succulents – Aveyas 6/8/10 Inch Ceramic Planter Pot

This sleek, modern pot is perfect for larger succulents! It comes with both a drainage plug and a saucer so you can really control the pot’s drain holes and protect your furniture. This pot also comes with a matching pot stand, a drainage net, and planter filler to add even more drainage to the bottom of your pot!

Your large succulents are definitely going to enjoy being in one of these!

Those are my best pots for succulents! If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions below, or join my plant community on Facebook, Houseplants for Plant Killers!

Then if you’re looking for your next step in your succulent journey, download my free resource, the Succulent Care Guide!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do succulents need deep pots?

Larger succulents need deep pots, but small succulents would die in deep pots. The trick is to plant your succulent in a pot that is only an inch or two deeper than its current pot. This way, the root system will be able to reach the water all the way at the bottom of your pot.

Do succulents grow better in pots?

Most plants grow better when planted in the ground. However, if your environment isn’t hot and dry, then your succulents would actually prefer to be in a pot, where they will have better drainage and can be brought indoors when it gets cold or damp.

Can succulents stay in small pots?

Some small succulent varieties will stay perfectly happy in their small pots. However, some larger succulents will grow to where they don’t have enough room and will eventually need to be repotted into larger pots. This all depends on your type of succulent and its mature size and growth habit.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Yes. If your succulents are in a wide pot, they do better if they are crowded. This lessens the possibility of your pot having drainage issues. It also makes the most beautiful succulent arrangements. So feel free to pack them in!

Do you put succulents in plastic pots?

Yes, you can. Just make sure that your pot still has good drainage. Don’t use plastic pots for outdoor succulents, though, as these tend to heat up, dry out, and fall over more than ceramic pots. For indoor use, however, plastic pots will be just fine.

What is the easiest succulent to grow?

There are a number of succulents that are easier to grow than others. These include haworthias, echeverias, and sedums. For a complete list, check out my post 12 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors.

How often should you water a succulent?

Generally, you should water your succulents once the soil has become dry, but before it begins to pull away from the sides of your pot. This is usually between every five to seven days, depending on the amount of sunlight, temperature, and season. Check out my post “How Often Should I Water my Succulent” for more details.

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The Ultimate Guide to Pothos Plant Care [+Free Care Pages!]

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Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a fantastic plant for anyone wanting a little more green in their home… It is one of the easiest tropical plants to grow and I recommend it to everyone. Especially to those who think that they can’t grow anything. Pothos is also listed as one of NASA’s top list of plants that clean the air! And if that isn’t enough, here are also some awesome tips to help you with your pothos plant care. Enjoy!

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Pothos Vine Care: Light Requirements

There are many different types of Pothos, or devil’s ivy, that are sold in garden centers today. The most common ones are:

  • Golden Pothos (green with a yellow pattern)
  • Marble Queen Pothos (green with a white pattern)
  • Jade Pothos (simply, but elegantly green)
  • N’Joy (a variegated white and green leaf)
  • Pearls and Jade (similar to N’Joy but usually has more white along the outside edges)
  • Neon Pothos (a fun, bright green variety)
  • Cebu blue (an Epipremnum pinnatum, with long, blue-green leaves)

As it goes, the brighter the leaf, the more bright indirect light it needs. The darker leaves can withstand lower light levels, but if you want larger leaves, then give it more light!

For example, Neon would like the brightest light, then Marble Queen, Golden, and finally Jade doesn’t do well in too bright light. However, all Pothos varieties can still grow and do well in low light conditions. They will just eventually lose their colors and all start to look like the normal Jade Pothos when in low light conditions. This is totally fine, but if you are absolutely devastated that the colors are leaving, then just move it to a brighter location.

One thing to remember with lighting, though, is that Pothos does not like to be in direct sunlight! This will cause the leaves to start looking dull and they may even turn a pale-yellow color. This is a sign of a “plant sunburn” from too much light. So adjust accordingly. If your pothos is losing its variegation and colors, then this is a sign of too little light. However, if your plant is turning a pale yellow, too much light. Simple, right?!

Pothos Vine Care: Water Requirements

As for watering, pothos plants can be easier than most indoor plants, but there are a few points to consider. This is because pothos can do well growing in a pot with soil, or can grow in straight water! But if your plant has been living in soil, you don’t want to put it in straight water and vice versa. These plants adapt very well so if it’s in soil, then only water when the top inch of soil has dried. Too much water and they will start to rot. But if it’s in water, then keep it in water and just make sure that the water is changed out every two weeks.

Pothos plants can adjust from water to soil, but they need to be well-watered during this transition.

If your leaves are a bright yellow color, then your plant is too dry. You can let the leaves get a little wilted before watering, but if they curl or turn yellow, then you’ve waited too long. On the flip side, if your plant’s new and older growth turns black, then this is a sign that it is either being over-watered, or that the air temperature is too low. (They don’t like being in air colder than about 50° F.)

Pothos Vine Care: Fertilizer & Pot Choice

Remember that Pothos in soil like to get a bit root-bound, so don’t re-pot it until the roots have filled out the container. They can also be fertilized once every two to three months during the summer. Only be careful because too much fertilizer (large amounts every week) can cause stunted growth. Personally, I feel that Pothos generally grows fast enough and doesn’t need any additional fertilizer, but it is really up to you. If you want a plant with huge, 2 foot leaves, then it’ll need fertilizer and plenty of light.

Also, make sure that your pot has at least one good drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. This is recommended for all houseplants as excess water can pool at the bottom of your pot, causing root rot, which is one of the few ways this plant could potentially die. If you tend to have problems with knowing when to water your pothos, I would recommend using a self-watering pot.

Quick story with this self-watering pot… One day last year I came home with two 3″ pothos (a golden and a marble queen). I placed them both in my office, and loved them so much! But a few weeks after purchasing, I received a few self-watering pots in the mail. So, my golden pothos ended up getting placed in a self-watering pot directly underneath my plant light, while my marble queen was left in her 6″ pot near the light, but not directly under it…

Fast forward about three months, and my golden pothos was DOUBLE the size of my marble queen!

This just shows how much a plant light and a self-watering pot can do to make your plant LOVE YOU!!!

*Update: Since this experiment, I have switched my marble queen to a self-watering pot, and she is starting to grow like crazy too, even though it’s winter time (aka NOT the typical growing season!)*

Pothos Vine Care: Pruning Tips

A lot of people also have a hard time keeping their Pothos from becoming too long and thin. We want a bushy-looking, full trailing vine. This only comes with regular trimming. Simply cut off the ends of the vines every month or so. You can either re-pot them in a light potting mix, such as vermiculite, or simply grow them in a glass of water. This will not only make your plant look healthy and vibrant, but will also give you plenty more little Pothos plants to add into your home!

Pothos Vine Care: Propagation

Pothos vines are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate due to its aerial roots and fast growth rate. For information on how to propagate your pothos, (and how to get PERFECT stem cuttings…) check out my post on Pothos Propagation!

Be aware: This plant is toxic to pets and children who may ingest large quantities of plant material. It isn’t fatal, but it may cause irritation and vomiting. It may also cause a skin rash for some people who have very highly sensitive skin. Check out my list of plants that are toxic to pets, as well as my list of non-toxic houseplants!

Well there are my tips! I hope you decide to pick up one of these little guys, or root out your own cutting! They are seriously one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and are great for those who want a low-maintenance, low-light option!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do Pothos Plants Need a lot of Sunlight?

Yes and no. If you are okay with your leaves losing their yellow or white markings, then they will be just fine in low-light conditions. However, if you want your pothos to grow faster, and keep its beautiful colorings, then it will need enough light to keep it happy. This means lots of bright, indirect sunlight, as hot, direct sunlight can potentially burn your pothos vines.

How do you make Pothos Happy?

The easiest way to make a pothos happy is to stick it in a self-watering pot in an east- or west-facing window. They also love bright bathrooms where they can enjoy high humidity levels. (Just make sure there isn’t too much sun in the hot afternoons!)

Why are Pothos Leaves turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves are usually a sign of either too little water, or too little sunlight. This is the plant’s way of coping with an unfavorable environment. To fix this, simply increase your watering (to have moist soil that only slightly dries out between watering). You can also move it to a location with more light, or consider bringing in additional lighting, such as fluorescent lighting or LED lights that are made for indoor plants.

Do Pothos like to be Watered?

Yes, pothos like to be watered. But make sure that you have good drainage in your pot so that any excess water can flow out of your pot. Then let the soil lightly dry out in between watering. This means that you will naturally water less in the winter months and more in the summer months. If you aren’t sure about watering, grab a Soil Water Meter!

Should I mist my Pothos?

Misting a pothos is generally unnecessary. However, in the winter months, indoor air can be dry and your plant can become dusty. These dry, dusty conditions can attract spider mites. If you see these insects, then definitely start misting (as well as treating with an insecticidal soap). This is because spider mites DO NOT like to be wet!

How do you tell if Pothos is Overwatered?

First, your soil will be wet. If you can press the top of the soil, and water appears, then there is too much water! Next, your pothos will be wilted, and there can possibly be brown spots on the leaves or stems that feel mushy to the touch. Your plant will also feel somewhat fat because the leaves are filled with water. Make sure your pot has drainage holes, and that your soil feels slightly dry to the touch every 5 days or so.

How do you Train a Pothos to Climb?

Pothos vines have aerial roots that will only grow into moist, natural materials. This is something like a moss pole, or in nature, a tree trunk. To get a pothos to climb indoors, however, simply use plant ties, command hooks, or even pieces of string to train your pothos up any vertical support.

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The 5 Signs your Plants Need Filtered Water

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Do you REALLY need filtered water for your plants? I know there is a huge controversy about benefits vs costs, but after doing some research (… a LOT of research…), I’ve found that yes, effects can be small. But small things add up. 

A favorite podcaster of mine always stresses this when he points out that if you had a penny that doubled every day for only 30 days, by the end of the month you would have over 5 MILLION dollars! Just from a single penny! (Rob Dial, The Mindset Mentor)

So when I think about watering my plants, I think about how many drops I am giving them every day, every week, every year. It really adds up! And that’s why I use filtered water.

But the decision is ultimately up to you. I’m just here to point out the 5 signs that your plants might need filtered water. 

*Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me keep providing this information to all of you. But, I only promote products that I have personally tried and love!*

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Sign #1 – Brown leaf tips, or brown, dying spots

Brown leaf tips and brown, dying (necrotic) spots can be caused by a few different factors, but they have both been linked to problems with water contamination. Now, this isn’t saying that your tap water is dangerous to drink… instead, it’s just dangerous to some of your more sensitive plants.

These two contaminants are chlorine, a chemical used to kill harmful bacteria in water, and flouride, a chemical that is actually added to water as it helps people have healthier teeth.

An excess of chlorine is what contributes to brown leaf tips in sensitive plants. These plants include: palms, spider plants, dracaena, azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc.

An excess of fluoride, however, causes necrotic spots along leaf edges. These fluoride-sensitive plants include those listed above as well as ti plants, prayer plants, and calatheas.

So if your plants are showing either of these symptoms, then it’s a sign you need filtered water.

Sign #2 – It’s hot outside

You might not know this, but the concentration of chemicals in your drinking water will actually change with the weather. This is because most water treatment plants are outdoors, and the variation in temperatures can cause different levels of bacterial and microbial growth.

It has been seen that as it gets hotter, water treatment plants need to use more chlorine than usual to kill these microbes. So if it’s getting hot outside, then not only will your plants need more water, but they will also have a higher chance of absorbing too much chlorine.

https://medium.com/@HomeWaterPros/chlorine-levels-in-drinking-water-reach-their-peak-during-the-end-of-summer-77e4f8b72358

Sign #3 – Your Soil is Turning White

A common question that a lot of people ask me is… “What is that white stuff on my soil? And how do I get rid of it?” The short answer is, this is a mineral build-up, and you need to leach it from the soil.

The problem with this short answer, though, is that this mineral build-up is most commonly caused by sodium carbonate… a chemical used to “soften” water (which usually makes it taste better when we drink it). 

These salts, while they might not be too harmful to us, can eventually lead to some major problems for our plants, especially if the soil is never replaced or leached. (After all, there’s a reason why the Salt Flats don’t have a lot of vegetation y’all!)

So, I recommend that people leach out their pots… (running a bunch of water through the soil to flush out any harmful chemicals or built-up minerals). This will be harder for those of you with garden plants, but even with indoor plants, it can take a lot of time and a warm location where the soil can dry.

The one problem, though, is how useful is leaching if you’re using the same water that contains the same amounts of sodium as before? So you see how it really is a short-term solution that doesn’t change the root of the problem.

Sign #4 – Your Plant isn’t Growing as Big

This sign is mainly for outdoor and garden plants, but it can also apply to indoor plants.

To dive into the “why” of this sign, we need to remember that water treatment plants have the goal to kill microbes that are living in our water. In fact, it is the water treatment plants that help keep us safe from cholera, E. coli, and Giardia. So they add chlorine, trihalomethanes (TTHM), and haloacetic acids (HAA5) to our water to kill any living microbes.

The problem with this, though, is that it kills beneficial microbes as well.

These beneficial microbes (like mycorrhizae) help break down nutrients in the soil so they can be absorbed by the plant roots. This is one reason why most quality fertilizers contain beneficial microbes.

So if your plants aren’t growing as fast, it could be because the chemicals in your water are killing these beneficial microbes, leaving your plants on their own.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/chlorine-toxicity

Sign #5 – You’re Not on Well Water

Well water can actually be better for plants than city water because it usually has fewer disinfecting chemicals, less or no fluoride, and higher mineral (a.k.a. nutrient) concentrations. But if you’re on “city” water, then you might like it more, but your plants will get the short end of the stick!

Those are the 5 signs that your plants need filtered water.

And if you’re now thinking you need a filter, I personally use and love this water filter system from GrowMax Water. I chose this one because I can use it for my indoor plants all winter (when it’s cold outside!), and then I can bring it outdoors in the summer to use for my garden!

It’s super light and connects to both under my sink, and onto my spigot! I just love this little guy!

filter option if your plants need filtered water

If you have any more plant-related questions, feel free to comment below or shoot me an email. You can also join my Facebook group, “Houseplants for Plant Killers” to receive personalized help and plant tips whenever you need!

Happy Digging!

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3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

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Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

Please leave any additional comments or questions below and sign up for my email list to receive even more tips and tricks to help keep your houseplants alive!

Happy Digging!

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How to Stop Over Watering your Succulents

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I get it. You buy a succulent, you lovingly water it, and then three days later it has died… What went wrong?! Then you discover the ugly truth. You’ve been over watering your succulents! Don’t worry. We’ve all been there. But how exactly do you stop? And how do you keep your little guys alive?! Keep reading, cause I’ll show you exactly how to stop over watering your succulents!

There are a couple of different reasons why your succulent is being over watered. First, it could be because you are simply adding too much water to its pot.

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Reason #1: Using Too Much Water

To fix this, only add small amounts of water each time you are watering.

Sounds simple, right?!

Well, it can actually be super difficult if you’re using a regular watering can to water those tiny little pots.

This is why it’s BEST to water your succulents with one of these!

These succulent watering bottles are designed to give you the ultimate control over how much your succulent is watered. It also has a small nozzle, which positions the water stream to exactly where you want it! No more wet succulent leaves, and no more wet plant shelves!

Reason #2: Not Enough Drainage

The next thing to consider with over watering succulents is how fast your water is draining out of its pot.

In a succulent’s native habitat, water will move quickly into, then out of a plant’s reach. This is done either through the water quickly sinking down through the sandy or rocky soil, or water will escape through evaporation due to the sun’s heat. Either way, the soil does not stay wet for long.

Which means… succulents are not accustomed to having their roots constantly wet. In fact, they’re used to having moderately dry roots.

Because of this, we need to allow the water in our own pots to move down and out of the soil.

To do this, we will need:

  1. Soil that drains well
  2. Pots that drain well

Well-Draining Soil

For well-draining soil, either amend regular soil with sand and perlite (at a rate of 1/3 soil, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 perlite), or consider purchasing a pre-mixed soil, such as this cactus and succulent soil!

Well-Draining Pots

To have well-draining pots, first make sure that your pot’s soil-to-root ratio is correct. (A.k.a., don’t use a large pot for a small succulent). This is extremely important!!!

If your succulent is small, use a small pot.

Also, look for shallow pots. Don’t purchase anything too deep.

Then, make sure that your pots have drainage holes!!!

I can’t stress this enough! Succulents NEED pots with drainage holes!

If you want to group your succulents together, get a pot that is specifically made for grouping succulents. These will be shallow, wide, and have drainage holes. Check out these pots for succulent groupings.

And for pot ideas, check out my post on Indoor Plant Pots. Just make sure you pick out pots that are proportionate to the size of your succulents!!!

So remember, add less water, and improve drainage of your soil and your pots! If you do all of these above steps, you will never over water your succulents again! Let me know if you have any more succulent-related questions in the comments below! And for more succulent tips, check out my post on Succulent Care, or my post, How Often should I Water my Succulent?!

Happy Digging!

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Common Problems with Christmas Cactus and How to Fix Them

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Isn’t it frustrating when your plant (that looked so great at the store!) comes home and slowly starts looking like it’s about to die?! If this is the story of you and your Christmas cactus, just know that it’s okay.

You are not the only person who has a hard time keeping this tropical cactus alive…

And today, I’m going to show you the five most common problems people run into with their Christmas cactus. Knowing these problems and implementing their solutions will turn your dying Christmas cactus back into its glorious cactus self again soon!

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Problem #1: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Limp & Droopy

Cause #1: There are two different reasons why your Christmas cactus’ leaves are limp and droopy. The first reason is if it is currently flowering. Producing flowers takes a lot of energy away from the plant and many people have said that their plants become droopy during and just after flowering.

Care: If this is you, then simply wait until your plant has finished flowering, then make sure to let it rest for a few weeks with no fertilizer and only little water. Only water it when the soil is dry to the touch. After these few weeks, you can then resume your care as normal.

Cause #2: The second reason for limp or droopy leaves is because of improper watering. This is also a cause for wilted or shriveled leaves. So if your plant’s leaves are limp and droopy, and it isn’t currently flowering, then improper watering is the cause.

Care: Refer to the next section for shriveled or wilted leaf care.

Christmas Cactus Limp Leaves
Image courtesy of Garden.org

Problem #2: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Shriveled or Wilted

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves will wilt and shrivel up when the leaves aren’t getting enough water due to improper watering. This can be from either over-watering or under-watering. Feel the soil several inches below the soil surface, or use a soil moisture meter to determine if your soil has been kept too wet or too dry.

Care #1: If your soil is too wet, then you will most likely have damaged roots. You should immediately re-pot your Christmas cactus into fresh soil that is only lightly moist. While re-potting, trim off any black or mushy roots and pour hydrogen peroxide over the root system. This will kill any remaining bacteria before you place it into fresh soil. Also, take stem cuttings at this time to propagate, following the directions in Christmas Cactus Propagation. This will ensure that even if your plants’ roots die, you will still have cuttings to re-grow your Christmas cactus.

Care #2: On the flip side, if your plant is too dry, then you will need to slowly increase the moisture levels over a few days. Slowly bring it from bone dry back to lightly moist. You will know you’ve been successful when your plant’s leaves perk back up! Just be sure that you don’t end up over-watering your plant at this time. Remember, let it barely dry out before you water it again.

Also note that if your plant’s soil is hard and difficult to press your fingers into, then you will need to re-pot your plant into fresh, well-draining soil, such as a cactus and succulent soil or a regular soil mixed with additional sand or perlite.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #3: Your Plant’s Leaves are Pale or Red

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves begin to turn pale and then get a slight red tint if they are getting too much direct sunlight. The red tint can be pretty (and harmless in the right settings), but make sure that it isn’t getting burnt. Remember, these plants are tropical cacti, not desert cacti. So they are used to a very moist heat, not a dry heat like what you find in a home window. So if your leaves are turning a pale greenish-yellow color, or are excessively red, then it’s too much hot, direct sunlight.

Care: Move your Christmas cactus out of any direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight will be fine, but try to avoid any direct sunlight for at least a little while.

These plants can eventually become accustomed to higher light levels, but this would take a lot of acclimatizing. Instead, I would suggest you take the easier route and simply move it away from the hot sunlight.

Image courtesy of houzz.com

Problem #4: You Christmas Cactus’ Stems are Falling Off

Cause: The reason why your plant’s stems are falling off is because of root- or stem rot at the base of the plant. This always happens as a result of over-watering.

Care: Follow the care instructions for over-watering under the “Wilted or Shriveled Leaves” section (Problem #2, Care #1). This will tell you exactly how to care for a plant that has been over-watered.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #5: Flower Buds Fall off Before they Fully Bloom

Cause: Christmas cactus flower are notorious for being overly-sensitive. The reasons why your buds fell off could be because of your plant getting too dry, staying too wet, or because it recently moved locations.

Care: When your plant is in bud, make sure to keep your watering schedule consistent. But, if something comes up (or you’ve just recently brought your plant home) and all of its buds fall off, sit tight.

Let it rest for a few weeks, keeping it a bit more dry than usual, and give it a chance to set new buds. Sometimes if it is healthy enough, a Christmas cactus is able to produce a second set of blooms. So don’t get frustrated! Your little plant might just need a bit more time!

Image courtesy of gardeningknowhow.com

Those are the 5 most common Christmas cactus problems and how to fix them! Please let me know below if you have any questions or additional comments, and join my email list to get not only a special welcome gift, but to also receive all the latest tips and how-to’s straight to your inbox. Then, for more info on how to take care of your plant, check out my post, Christmas Cactus Plant Care!

Happy Digging!

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