31 Fuzzy Succulent Plants that make you go “Awww!”

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Hello succulent lovers! If you’re like me, you can never have enough of these adorable plants in your home. And what’s better than a fuzzy succulent? I’m excited to share with you my top 31 favorite fuzzy succulents that will add a unique and cozy touch to your indoor garden. Whether you’re new to succulents or a seasoned collector, there’s a fuzzy plant out there for everyone. So, let’s dive in and explore these irresistible, tender succulents that will make your heart melt!

What are fuzzy succulent plants?

A fuzzy succulent is a type of plant that exhibits hairy or woolly structures on its leaves or stems, which are often used for water retention and protection from environmental stresses. This characteristic is commonly found in plants belonging to the Crassulaceae, Asteraceae, and Malvaceae families. The fuzzy texture of succulents can range from a light fuzz to dense woolly covering, and can serve as an adaptation to various ecological niches, including arid and high-altitude environments.

These specialized hairy or fuzzy leaves can range in texture from a fine down that is nearly invisible to the naked eye, to a more noticeable fuzziness. You’ll find that touching these plants is an absolute delight, and their fuzzy texture adds a unique dimension to your houseplant collection.

General Care Tips for Fuzzy Succulents

Fuzzy succulents generally require well-draining soil, bright but indirect light, and infrequent watering. They can usually tolerate some direct sunlight, but this is usually not quite as much full sun than their non-fuzzy relatives.

It’s important, though, not to overwater them as their fuzzy leaves can trap moisture among the hairs, which can lead to damage on the leaves and possible root rot. So when watering, make sure to add only a little water, or drain out any excess water from the soil through the pot’s drainage hole.

Then, as with most succulents, fertilizing should be done sparingly, if at all. And only in the summer months. Never fertilize your succulents in the winter months when the plant is not actively growing.

One of the biggest things that sets fuzzy succulent care apart from regular succulents is that fuzzy succulents tend to trap dust on their leaves.  Normally this is taken care of outdoors by the wind, but since we typically don’t have high winds indoors, your fuzzy succulents would need to be periodically wiped down with a dry, soft cloth to remove any dust and debris that has gotten stuck on their leaves.

For more succulent care tips, check out my post on Taking Care of Succulents!

*Note: This post may contain affiliate links, which if purchased, I may receive a portion of the profits. This allows me to keep providing awesome information for you!*

1. Kalanchoe tomentosa

Kalanchoe tomentosa, also known as the Panda Plant or Teddy Bear Plant, is a fuzzy succulent that is perfect for plant lovers with furry friends. Its soft, silvery leaves are covered in tiny hairs, giving it a cuddly, teddy bear-like appearance. Not only is it safe for cats, but it also adds a touch of coziness to any space. And, a native of Madagascar, this fun succulent always makes me think of not just a panda bear, but specifically of King Julian from the movie Madagascar! Haha!

Get a Panda Plant!

2. Echeveria Setosa var. Deminuta

Echeveria setosa var. deminuta is a charming succulent with small, fuzzy leaves that resemble tiny sea anemones. This unique plant is known for its rosettes of grayish-green foliage that are covered in fine hairs, adding a touch of softness to its already delicate appearance. Its diminutive size makes it perfect for small spaces or as a feature in a succulent arrangement. It will also easily reward you with a new plant stemming from the sides of each rosette!

Get an Echeveria setosa var. Deminuta!

3. Echeveria Doris Taylor

Echeveria Doris Taylor is a stunning succulent with a soft and fuzzy appearance, reminiscent of lamb’s ear. Its rosettes of thick, powdery blue-green leaves are covered in fine white hairs, giving it a cozy and velvety texture. If it is in a bright, warm climate, this slow-growing plant will bloom in late fall or early winter, producing a tall stalk of delicate peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage. 

​Get an Echeveria Doris Taylor!

4. Crassula lanuginosa var. Pachystemon ‘David’

Crassula lanuginosa var. pachystemon ‘David’ doesn’t look like your typical jade plants. Instead, its thick, almost bonsai-like trunk and densely packed leaves can cascade down the sides of its pot more like a Burro’s tail succulent. Its fuzzy, silver-green foliage forms a neat, compact rosette that contrasts beautifully with its woody stem. This slow-growing plant is perfect for bonsai enthusiasts or as a statement piece in a succulent arrangement.

Get a David Crassula!

5. Echeveria pulvinata x setosa

Echeveria pulvinata x setosa is a stunning hybrid succulent with a velvety, soft texture and a rosette shape that resembles a flower. Its leaves are covered in fine hairs that give it a fuzzy appearance, with colors ranging from blue-green to reddish-brown. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a touch of elegance to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or as a unique gift for plant enthusiasts.

Get an Echeveria pulvinata x setosa!

6. Sempervivum Ciliosum

Sempervivum Ciliosum, with the common name of the Eyelash Houseleek, is a charming succulent with a unique appearance that resembles a tiny, green rose. Its compact rosettes of fleshy, pointed leaves have tiny hairs, or “eyelashes,” that protrude from the tips, adding an extra dimension of texture and visual interest. This slow-growing plant produces delicate pink flowers in the summer, making it an excellent addition to any rock garden or succulent arrangement.

Get an Eyelash Houseleek!

7. Crested Echeveria Frosty

Crested Echeveria Frosty is a captivating succulent with a unique and beautiful appearance. Its intricately curved leaves form a rosette shape, which is further accentuated by its crested growth pattern. The frosty blue-green leaves have a powdery texture, adding to its delicate and ethereal appearance. This slow-growing plant blooms in the spring, producing tall stems of peach-colored flowers that stand out against its muted foliage, making it an ideal plant for succulent enthusiasts who appreciate rare and distinctive specimens.

Get a Crested Echeveria Frosty!

8. Aeonium Dinner Plate

Aeonium Dinner Plate is a striking succulent with a unique and eye-catching appearance. Its large, flat rosettes of glossy leaves can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, resembling a plate, hence its name. The leaves range in color from green to deep burgundy and have small hairs along the leaf edges. This slow-growing plant produces tall stems of yellow flowers in the summer, making it a perfect addition to any succulent garden or patio where its striking beauty can be admired by all.

Get an Aeonium Dinner Plate!

9. Crassula mesembryanthemoides

Crassula mesembryanthemoides is a charming succulent with a unique and fascinating appearance. Its dense clusters of gray-green, hairy leaves form a dense mat-like structure, making it an excellent ground cover plant. The leaves are triangular and pointed, with a powdery texture that gives them a frosted appearance. This slow-growing plant produces small white or pink flowers on tall stems in the summer, adding a delicate touch to its already intriguing look. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, bringing a touch of beauty and diversity.

Get yourself a Crassula mesembryanthemhttps://www.etsy.com/listing/1430425188/crassula-mesembryanthemoides?gpla=1&gao=1&oides!

10. Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans”

Crassula congesta ‘Green Beans’ is a delightful succulent with a unique and charming appearance. Its thick, green leaves are shaped like little beans and are tightly packed together in rosettes that can grow up to 6 inches in diameter. The leaves have a fleshy texture and a glossy sheen, on their leaf surface, making them look almost plastic-like. Don’t forget to water it though! This slow-growing plant produces delicate white or pink flowers in the summer. This makes it an excellent addition to any succulent collection or rock garden, especially for those who appreciate rare and unusual specimens.

Get yourself a Green Bean Crassula!

11. Kalanchoe orgyalis

Kalanchoe orgyalis is one of my favorite succulents. It has a unique appearance with elongated, fuzzy, and copper-colored leaves that look almost like they’re made of velvet. The leaves’ edges have a smooth texture that adds to the plant’s charm. This slow-growing succulent produces clusters of delicate pink flowers that add a pop of color to its already striking appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, and the fuzziness of the leaves makes it a favorite of mine to touch and admire.

Get a Kalanchoe orgyalis!

12. Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’

Echinopsis subdenudata ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is a unique and fascinating succulent that I can’t help but love. Its round, green body is covered in tiny white spines that make it look fuzzy and almost soft to the touch. The plant’s spines make it unique and fascinating, and its slow growth rate makes it a perfect choice for indoor gardening. The plant produces large, showy pink flowers that add to its already attractive look. Whether placed on a windowsill or in a terrarium, ‘Fuzzy Navel’ is an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection.

Get yourself a Fuzzy Navel succulent!

13. Cotyledon Tomentosa – Bear Paw

Cotyledon Tomentosa, also known as the Bear’s Paw, is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance resembling the paw of a bear. Its rounded, furry leaves are covered in tiny hairs, and the tips are adorned with sharp, claw-like protrusions. This slow-growing plant produces delicate, tubular flowers in shades of orange or yellow in the summer, adding a touch of color to its already charming appearance. It’s an excellent addition to any succulent collection, especially for those who love animals.

Get yourself a Bear Paw!

14. Crassula brevifolia

Crassula brevifolia is a perfect succulent for an indoor setting. Its round, fuzzy leaves grow in a rosette pattern that adds a unique and charming touch to any room. The plant’s thick leaves have a soft texture that invites you to touch them, and they’re easy to care for, making them a great choice for indoor gardening. This succulent thrives in bright, indirect sunlight and requires infrequent watering. It’s an excellent addition to any indoor succulent collection, adding a touch of greenery and coziness to your living space.

Get a Crassula brevifolia!

15. Kalanchoe eriophylla

Kalanchoe eriophylla is a unique and fascinating succulent that can add a charming touch to any indoor space. Its velvety, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that invites you to touch them. The plant is easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for indoor gardening, and it produces beautiful pink showy flowers that add to its already attractive look. This succulent is perfect for adding a pop of color and texture to your indoor succulent collection while keeping your furry friends safe.

Get yourself a Kalanchoe eriophylla!

16. Crassula mesembryanthemoides ‘Tenelli’ 

Crassula mesembryanthemoides Tenelli is an excellent choice for an indoor succulent collection. The plant’s delicate, fuzzy leaves give it a soft and cozy appearance that adds warmth to any room. It’s easy to care for and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it a low-maintenance choice for indoor gardening. Its compact size and attractive look make it perfect for tabletops or shelves, adding a touch of greenery and elegance to your indoor space.

Get a Tenelli Crassula!

17. Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks

Sempervivum Cobweb Hens and Chicks is a delightful indoor succulent that adds texture and visual interest to any room. Its web-like fuzziness and small rosette-shaped fleshy leaves make it a unique and attractive addition to your indoor garden. This low-maintenance plant thrives in bright light and doesn’t require frequent watering, making it perfect for busy plant parents. Plus, its pet-safe nature ensures that your furry friends won’t be harmed if they decide to give it a nibble.

Get yourself a Cobweb Hens and Chicks!

18. Kalanchoe tomentosa – Variegated Bear Paw

The Variegated Bear Paw kalanchoe is a striking addition to any indoor collection. Its soft, fuzzy leaves are variegated with cream and green, creating a beautiful contrast. Unlike the original Bear Paw Succulent, this variety has more of a trailing growth habit and can be a great choice for hanging baskets. It’s safe for pets and easy to care for, making it a perfect option for any indoor plant lover.

​Grab a Variegated Bear Paw!

19. Senecio haworthii – Woolly Senecio

The Senecio haworthii, also known as the Woolly Senecio or the Woolly Rose, is a soft, fuzzy succulent that adds a playful touch to any indoor space. Unlike its famous cousin, the string of pearls, this plant has fuzzy, grey-green leaves that are irresistible to touch and pet. This makes it a great addition for anyone who loves tactile plants. Plus, this low-maintenance succulent is perfect for busy plant parents looking for a bit of greenery without the hassle!

Get yourself a Woolly senecio!

20. Cephalocereus senilis – Old Man Cactus

Old Man Cactus, with its shaggy white hairs, is a charming addition to any succulent collection. Its soft and fuzzy texture adds a cozy touch to your indoor space. This plant requires minimal care and can tolerate a variety of indoor conditions, making it an easy choice for any level of plant enthusiast. Its unique appearance is sure to bring a smile to your face every time you see it.

Get an Old Man Cactus!

21. Cyanotis somaliensis – Kitten Ears

Kitten Ears, or Cyanotis somaliensis, is a delightful succulent species that boasts a soft and fuzzy texture reminiscent of a soft, furry kitten’s ears. The plant’s delicate green leaves are adorned with tiny white hairs that give it a cozy and inviting appearance. It’s a perfect addition to any indoor garden or plant collection, adding a touch of charm and playfulness.

Get yourself some Kitten Ears!

22. Kalanchoe tomentosa ‘Chocolate soldier’

This succulent is a Chocolate Soldier, a type of Kalanchoe tomentosa. Its fuzzy, chocolate-brown leaves give it a unique appearance that I can’t resist touching. The main difference between the regular panda plant and the Chocolate Soldier plants is the color of the hairs on the leaves. While the original has green and white fuzzy succulent leaves, the Chocolate Soldier leaves have a more distinct brown hair color, which makes the leaves look more like chocolate… yummm!

Get a Chocolate Soldier!

23. Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida – White Chenille Plant

Oh, the White Chenille Plant, also known as Echeveria pulvinata var. Frigida, is one of my favorite indoor succulents. The fuzzy leaves are irresistible to touch and the plant’s rosette shape is just adorable. Plus, its fuzzy leaves resemble white hairs, and the rosettes form small clumps that make it look like a cute little snowball. This plant thrives in bright light and is easy to care for, making it perfect for succulent beginners.

Get yourself a White Chenille Plant!

24. Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’

Kalanchoe beharensis, also known as the Felt Bush or Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe, is a unique and fuzzy succulent that is perfect for any indoor plant collection. The leaves are covered in soft, felt-like hairs that make them a pleasure to touch. The silver-green leaves have a scalloped edge and are held on tall, upright stems. Then, with the right care, you could possibly see stalks of delicate pink or white flowers blooming from the head of the plant. This makes it a beautiful addition to any succulent collection!

Get a Velvet Leaf Kalanchoe!

25. Echeveria setosa – Mexican Firecracker

Looking for a striking, low-maintenance succulent to add to your indoor collection? Look no further than Echeveria setosa, also known as the Mexican Firecracker. This beautiful plant boasts a unique fuzzy texture and bright red-orange tips, adding a pop of color to any space.

Grab yourself a Mexican Firecracker!

26. Tradescantia sillamontana

If you’re looking for a succulent with a unique texture, you should check out the Tradescantia sillamontana, also known as Cobweb Spiderwort. This plant’s fuzzy, silver leaves give it an almost velvety appearance. It’s definitely a conversation starter, and I love the way it adds a touch of softness to any indoor succulent garden. Just be aware, this can be a picky succulent to grow indoors as it loves lots of humidity!

Grab yourself a tradescantia sillamontana!

27. Adromischus cristatus – Key Lime Pie Plant

The Adromischus cristatus, also known as the Crinkle leaf plant or Key Lime Pie plant, has a unique crinkly texture to its leaves that almost looks like it’s been scrunched up like paper. The fuzziness of the leaves makes it all the more interesting to touch and care for. Its vibrant green color and wavy shape give it a playful, fun appearance that’s sure to brighten up any room. 

Buy yourself a Key Lime Pie plant!

28. Aeonium smithii

Aeonium smithii, or the Black Rose, is a beautiful succulent with dark, glossy leaves that almost look black. It’s a bit fuzzy to the touch and adds a nice rosette form to your indoor garden. With proper care, this plant can grow tall and produce stunning rosettes of flowers at the top of the stem. It can be grown indoors as well as outdoors in warmer climates, and is a low maintenance plant that will thrive in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. When exposed to more sun, the red pigmentation in its leaves becomes more vibrant, making it a stunning addition to any succulent collection.

Get yourself a Black Rose Aeonium!

29. Echeveria setosa var. Ciliata

Echeveria setosa var. ciliata is a fuzzy, succulent plant with a unique appearance. Its leaves have hair-like growths that give it a distinct texture, and its pale green color adds to its overall beauty. I love the way it looks in a decorative pot or mixed with other succulents in an arrangement!

Get yourself an Echeveria setosa var. ciliata!

30. Crassula barbata

Crassula barbata, also known as the Bearded-leaved Crassula, is a unique succulent with plump, triangular leaves that are a pale green color. The leaves have a slightly fuzzy texture, which makes this plant all the more charming. This Crassula is a native of South Africa, and as such is a slow grower. But it’s definitely worth the wait for its beautiful rose shape and unique texture.

Get a Bearded-leaved Crassula!

31. Echeveria harmsii

Echeveria harmsii is a delightful succulent with a unique appearance. Its leaves are a dusty blue-green color with a soft velvety texture that is so satisfying to touch. The fuzzy leaves have a striking white outline, and the rosette shape makes it perfect for display in a pot or hanging basket.

Get yourself an Echeveria harmsii!

I hope this list of 31 fuzzy succulents for indoors has inspired you to add some texture and variety to your indoor plant collection. Remember to always research the specific care requirements for each plant and provide them with the appropriate environment to thrive. With a little bit of love and attention, these fuzzy succulents can brighten up your home and bring you joy and fuzzy feelings for years to come! 

Happy Digging!

How to Water your Houseplant

Last month my mom was visiting to help me with my new little baby girl. While she was visiting, she asked me about one of her houseplants. It was a pretty interesting conversation… and I’ll admit, she’s struggled through the years as many people have with her plants dying. She wasn’t sure how to correctly water plants.

Want to watch different watering techniques? Check out my youtube video below!

So… what was the first question that she asked me? She asked if yellow leaves were a sign of overwatering or underwatering.

My honest reply was that it can be a sign of either over-watering or under-watering.

With an exasperated sigh, she threw up her hands and said “Then how do I know if I need to water it more or if I need to stop?!”

“Well…” I replied, “is the soil wet?”

This question always seems to get people thinking. Hmm… Is the soil wet? Most people wouldn’t know. My mom didn’t remember. She said her plant had died a while back and she couldn’t remember if the soil was wet or dry…

So the moral of this story is that watering can be hard, but ultimately we are trying to find out if our soil is wet or dry.
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Is it wet? Or is it dry?

This is very hard to tell by simply looking at the top of the soil. This is because with gravity, water will naturally sink to the bottom of the pot. And if your pot doesn’t have drainage holes, then it can create a rather large pool of water in the potting mix at the bottom, while appearing to be dry on top of the soil. So, instead of just looking at the soil, I’ve got 3 ways you can tell if your soil is dry, or if it is actually wet down below.

1 – Feel the Soil

Now, I don’t mean just feel the top of the soil. I mean stick your finger as deep as you can down into the soil. This will allow you to usually feel a few inches down into the soil (depending on the size of your pot), and you should be able to feel if there is still moisture. Then you will be able to tell if your plant’s soil is dry all the way through, or if there is still moisture down below the surface of the soil. This method works great for any medium or small plant you have, but it isn’t as effective when you are trying to guage the moisture level in large pots.

placing finger into houseplant soil.

2 – Weigh your Pot

The second way to tell how moist or dry your plant’s soil has become is to pick up your plant and weigh it in your hands. After lifting your plant a few times, you will begin to be able to feel if your plant is heavier than usual, or if it is lighter than usual. A light pot means that your soil is dry. A heavy pot, on the other hand, means that there is still some water in your soil that is weighing it down. This method also works best for medium to small pots, but it can be difficult to constantly be lifting one of your larger houseplants.

hand lifting scindapsus plant in macrame hanger

3 – Use a Soil Moisture Meter

The third way to check if the soil is wet (and my FAVORITE way!) is to use a soil moisture meter. These devices are pretty cheap and can be purchased at any major garden center, or find my favorite one here! With a soil moisture meter, you simply place the probe into the soil (making sure that you push it down enough that it gets an accurate reading of the bottom of the pot), and it will tell you how dry, moist, or wet your soil is! That’s all there is to it!

soil moisture meter reading "moist" in houseplant soil

This brings me to a few questions that people regularly ask about watering…

How often should I water my houseplants?

This question has a lot going on. First, as a plant parent, you should never have a set schedule of watering your plants. This is because there are a lot of factors that will change how often you will need to water. For example, some things that might affect how much water your plant uses is:

  • the soil mixture/type
  • the amount of light it is receiving
  • the size of the pot
  • the general room temperature
  • how much water you added when you last watered

Your houseplant’s watering schedule will even change between the seasons, as it will use more water during the spring, summer, and fall, but will use less water during the winter. So there really isn’t a set number of days you should be watering your houseplant. Instead, the easiest way to gauge if your plant needs soil or not is to follow the guidelines above to determine if you have moist soil or dry soil.

After realizing that you will never have a set plant watering routine, you might be wondering…

What is the Best Way to Water Houseplants?

A lot of plant parents ask if they should be top watering or bottom watering their plants. And I know that bottom watering does have its benefits, but top watering is also very convenient. And top watering is how we water all of our outdoor plants, right?! So let me just say, the best way to water your houseplants is to simply make sure that you water your plant evenly, you add enough water to thoroughly soak the root ball, and you drain off any excess water (so you don’t have root rot issues!). As long as you follow these general rules, than either top or bottom watering can work for you. If you are still unsure, though, check out my video on Should you Top or Bottom Water your Plants?

two snake plants in pots sitting in tupperware full of water. hand lifting one snake plant out to drain excess water.

Side note, however, is that if you are struggling with fungus gnats, then I suggest you only bottom water for several months. This is because these gnats lay their eggs in the top few inches of soil, where the larvae need soggy soil to survive. When you top water, you are giving these fungus gnats exactly what they need to survive. If you switch to bottom watering, however, this will keep the top of your soil relatively dry, which will in turn keep the gnats away!

Next I get asked a lot about watering types…

What is the best type of water?

To this, once again, it depends! A lot of plants will do okay with tap water (as long as you don’t have too much chlorine and chemicals within your water). But there are a few that specifically HATE the chlorine that is found in tap water. For people with these types of plants, (or with hard chlorinated water), the best option is to water your plants with either filtered water or distilled water. This will help keep the mineral levels low.

You can check out my post on 5 Signs your Plants need Filtered Water if you’re unsure.

Some people also swear by leaving their water out for a few hours to let the chlorine evaporate into the air, and this might work for you, but with those of us who have multiple plants, this watering method simply isn’t reasonable… unless you want me tripping over buckets of water all through my house! Haha!

You can also check out my video where I tested my own water filter to see if it really removed the chemicals or not…

The next question that I wanted to address is when people ask the following…

What does it mean to water thoroughly?

This is a phrase that plant people LOVE to throw around and it can make beginner plant parents confused… What does it mean to water a plant thoroughly?! But all we are saying is to water around all sides of the pot, with a large enough amount of water to soak into the entire rootball (from top to bottom). Then as long as you have good drainage, your house plants should drain off any extra water and you will be left with the perfectly watered plant!

watering can spout adding water to ivy plant sitting in sink

And the last tip that I wanted to leave you with, is to…

Know Your Plant!

I know this might take a little research, but it is extremely important!!! The type of plant you have will help decide how wet or dry you leave the soil in between watering. Some plants like it more moist (like african violets and spider plants), but the majority of indoor plants need it to get a bit dry before watering again (like snake plants and money trees). (Don’t let them get too dry though! We don’t want them to feel like they’re living in the Mojave Desert!)

If you want the shortcut, I have a special deal for my readers on the Indoor Plant Guide A-Z. This is a comprehensive care guide to over 130+ popular houseplants. So you can cut the endless google searches and have everything you need to know for your houseplants all in one spot.

And now, to state this once again as the ULTIMATE GAME-CHANGER for all plant parents…

Soil Moisture Meters

The last thing you need to do if you struggle with knowing how to water houseplants is to purchase a water moisture meter. You can stick your moisture meter (also called a soil moisture gauge) into the soil and the meter will tell you exactly how wet or dry your potted plant is. Then as soon as the meter gets into the dry portion of your gauge, you add water. And if it isn’t in the dry portion, then please don’t add water! 

This moisture meter is the #1 tool that I recommend to all plant parents. Why? Because it works! (And I also love that it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to purchase, either!)

hand holding dry soil above houseplant in pot

So to wrap everything up… if you know what type of plant you own and you know what kind of watering it likes, and then you follow these general guidelines to water the correct way, and if your plant is still dying… Well then you at least know that it isn’t because of water. Try something else. And check out my post on 10 quick tips to keep your indoor plants alive! Or join the Facebook group, Houseplants for Plant Killers and let me know what’s going on! I absolutely love helping people with their plant questions!

Happy digging!

P.S. – For more watering specifics, check out my posts below!

How to Water Air Plants the RIGHT way!

How Often should I water my Succulents?

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How to Choose the Best Pots for Succulents (+5 Faves)

Have you been eyeing a new succulent lately? Or maybe you have a growing collection and just need a new pot? Whether you’re a beginner or a succulent expert, we all need to have one thing right in our succulent care. And that is… we need to choose the right pot!

So what are the best pots for succulents? Today I’m going to tell you exactly what works and what doesn’t work for succulent pots, as well as give you some recommendations of my personal faves. Then if you still have questions, check out my “Frequently Asked Questions” section at the bottom of the page. Or just scroll down to see my top 5 best succulent pots!

Ready?! 

Let’s dig in!

**Note: This post may contains affiliate links, which helps support this website, at no extra cost to you!**

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What Makes the Best Pots?

There are three keys that you need to look for in the right container. The perfect succulent pot would consider:

  • Drainage
  • Material
  • Size

Let’s address these things one at a time.

#1: Proper Drainage

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but let me stress this fact… succulent pots NEED drainage holes!!!!

Technically, you CAN keep succulents alive in pots without drainage holes by simply adding only small amounts of water at a time. I know, because I’ve done this. But speaking from experience, these succulents never thrive like the succulents that I have in my pots with good drainage. This is because when your pots have proper drainage, you can water your plant as much as you want at each watering and the excess water will simply drain out.

But with pots that have no drainage holes (such as the pretty glass containers they show on Pinterest), these pots will leave you to always be fighting your moisture levels, since one little extra watering could potentially kill your whole plant. Personally, I tend to under-water these succulents to avoid accidentally giving them too much water. But as a result, my succulent plants are never as healthy.

So long story short… get a pot with drainage holes! Just do it!

#2: Pot Material

I would argue that pot material is the least important thing out of the three keys for choosing the best pot for succulents. This is because pot material alone will not kill your succulents.

Terra Cotta/Ceramic Pots

Terracotta pots, or ceramic pots, are definitely the best choice for succulent pots. This is due to the fact that the clay can actually soak up some of the excess moisture, giving your plant a little extra buffer between wet and dry phases. Be careful in the winter, though, as wet ceramic pots (in cold temperatures) can take longer to dry out. This could potentially cause overwatering problems for people who tend to water too much in the winter.

So the best pot material for succulents is terra cotta pots, unless you tend to overwater your plants during the winter. 

Plastic Pots

Plastic pots and plastic containers are also a fine choice for succulents as long as they have sufficient drainage, are heavy enough to not tip over, and are not left outdoors.

Some succulents grow more vertically and can become top heavy. Plastic pots are usually lighter and easily fall over in these situations. To fix this, use sand instead of perlite in your succulent soil mix. This will help to weigh down any tipsy pots!

Next, if you are keeping your succulent outdoors, I do not recommend using plastic pots. This is first because of their higher chances of falling over due to their low weight. Second, plastic pots have a tendency to heat up and dry out faster when exposed to high temperature than clay pots or concrete pots. And third, plastic pots can freeze and deteriorate quickly in very cold climates. This is why I only recommend plastic pots for indoor use.

Metal Pots

Metal pots and metal containers usually have the same heat issue as plastic pots. For this reason, you should keep a metal pot indoors only. If you want to move your succulents outdoors, then a good choice would be a terracotta or concrete pot.

Concrete Pots

Concrete pots are similar to clay pots in that they are both a breathable material. Concrete pots are particularly good in outdoor spaces where they will be durable and protective to your succulents. Just be sure to keep in mind that real concrete pots can be extremely heavy. This is good for areas that are prone to high winds (especially if you live within hurricane areas), since your concrete planters will be sure to protect your plants when the weather gets tough!

#3: Size of Pot

Pot size is, in my opinion, the MOST OVERLOOKED problem of succulent killers. Because if your pot is too big, your succulent will die!!! 

This is more of a water problem than a size problem. If you have a large pot, then you will have lots of soil that will be wet. This soil will have water where the small plant roots can’t reach. This extra, unreachable water will cause too much moisture to sit for too long and will lead to root rot.

Even with proper drainage, you need to make sure that the walls of your pot are only an inch or two bigger than your succulents’ current pot (on all sides). This is why a lot of succulent planters tend to be shallow pots that can fit a few succulents together in an arrangement, but that are still shallow enough that the small roots can still reach the bottom of the pot.

Potting Multiple Succulents Together

If you want to pot multiple succulents together in a succulent arrangement or succulent planter, then your best bet is to buy a large, shallow container. Then, make sure that it is stuffed full of succulents! This will help it have enough roots everywhere so you won’t have those pockets of soil that the roots can’t reach…

Pot Recommendations:

  • All-Around Favorite: D’vine Dev Terracotta Pots
  • Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value!): Brajtt Plant Pots
  • Best for a Group of Succulents: Kimisty 10 Inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl
  • Best for Hanging Succulents: Mkono 8 inch Ceramic Hanging Planter
  • Best for Large Succulents: Aveyas 6/8/10 inch Ceramic Planter Pot

#1: All-Around Favorite – Terracotta Pots by D’vine Dev

These pots are fantastic because they are not only terracotta pots, but they also have drainage holes, the perfect-fit saucer, a drainage net (to keep the soil from coming out), and a “scratch pad” to put under your pot. This ensures that your pot has great drainage, but also that it keeps your surfaces dry and scratch-free! 

These guys have really thought of everything that an indoor succulent grower needs out of a pot. And that’s why it’s my all-around favorite set of succulent pots!

#2: Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value) – Brajtt Succulent Pots

These white, modern pots are perfect for your shorter succulents that don’t have deep root systems. I love that each pot has a small drainage hole, and they come with a functional, stylish bamboo tray to catch any excess water before it stains your window ledge.

And to get 8 pots for only $14.99 (at the time of writing this post)… that’s an AMAZING deal!!!

#3: Best for a Group of Succulents – Kimisty 10 inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl

This planter dish is perfect for succulent arrangements or succulent gardens! It is a glazed ceramic pot with a drainage hole and a plug (to keep your surfaces clean!). It also has a gorgeous, airy stand and white decorative rocks to make your succulent garden go from amateur to professional!

I especially love the size of this planter dish, since most are only about 6” long. With this dish coming in at a solid 10” diameter, (choose the “large” size), it fits a lot of succulents!

#4: Best for Hanging Succulents – Mkono 8 Inch Ceramic Hanging Planter

I searched far and wide for the perfect hanging succulent planters, and this is the one that I finally discovered!

It is a sturdy glazed ceramic pot that comes with a removable drainage plug for excess water. It also comes with a rope and pre-drilled holes, so all you need now is a strong hook! This hanging pot is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

#5: Best For Large Succulents – Aveyas 6/8/10 Inch Ceramic Planter Pot

This sleek, modern pot is perfect for larger succulents! It comes with both a drainage plug and a saucer so you can really control the pot’s drain holes and protect your furniture. This pot also comes with a matching pot stand, a drainage net, and planter filler to add even more drainage to the bottom of your pot!

Your large succulents are definitely going to enjoy being in one of these!

Those are my best pots for succulents! If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions below, or join my plant community on Facebook, Houseplants for Plant Killers!

Then if you’re looking for your next step in your succulent journey, download my free resource, the Succulent Care Guide!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do succulents need deep pots?

Larger succulents need deep pots, but small succulents would die in deep pots. The trick is to plant your succulent in a pot that is only an inch or two deeper than its current pot. This way, the root system will be able to reach the water all the way at the bottom of your pot.

Do succulents grow better in pots?

Most plants grow better when planted in the ground. However, if your environment isn’t hot and dry, then your succulents would actually prefer to be in a pot, where they will have better drainage and can be brought indoors when it gets cold or damp.

Can succulents stay in small pots?

Some small succulent varieties will stay perfectly happy in their small pots. However, some larger succulents will grow to where they don’t have enough room and will eventually need to be repotted into larger pots. This all depends on your type of succulent and its mature size and growth habit.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Yes. If your succulents are in a wide pot, they do better if they are crowded. This lessens the possibility of your pot having drainage issues. It also makes the most beautiful succulent arrangements. So feel free to pack them in!

Do you put succulents in plastic pots?

Yes, you can. Just make sure that your pot still has good drainage. Don’t use plastic pots for outdoor succulents, though, as these tend to heat up, dry out, and fall over more than ceramic pots. For indoor use, however, plastic pots will be just fine.

What is the easiest succulent to grow?

There are a number of succulents that are easier to grow than others. These include haworthias, echeverias, and sedums. For a complete list, check out my post 12 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors.

How often should you water a succulent?

Generally, you should water your succulents once the soil has become dry, but before it begins to pull away from the sides of your pot. This is usually between every five to seven days, depending on the amount of sunlight, temperature, and season. Check out my post “How Often Should I Water my Succulent” for more details.

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The Ultimate Guide to Pothos Plant Care [+Free Care Pages!]

Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a fantastic plant for anyone wanting a little more green in their home… It is one of the easiest tropical plants to grow and I recommend it to everyone. Especially to those who think that they can’t grow anything. Pothos is also listed as one of NASA’s top list of plants that clean the air! And if that isn’t enough, here are also some awesome tips to help you with your pothos plant care. Enjoy!

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Pothos Vine Care: Light Requirements

There are many different types of Pothos, or devil’s ivy, that are sold in garden centers today. The most common ones are:

  • Golden Pothos (green with a yellow pattern)
  • Marble Queen Pothos (green with a white pattern)
  • Jade Pothos (simply, but elegantly green)
  • N’Joy (a variegated white and green leaf)
  • Pearls and Jade (similar to N’Joy but usually has more white along the outside edges)
  • Neon Pothos (a fun, bright green variety)
  • Cebu blue (an Epipremnum pinnatum, with long, blue-green leaves)

As it goes, the brighter the leaf, the more bright indirect light it needs. The darker leaves can withstand lower light levels, but if you want larger leaves, then give it more light!

For example, Neon would like the brightest light, then Marble Queen, Golden, and finally Jade doesn’t do well in too bright light. However, all Pothos varieties can still grow and do well in low light conditions. They will just eventually lose their colors and all start to look like the normal Jade Pothos when in low light conditions. This is totally fine, but if you are absolutely devastated that the colors are leaving, then just move it to a brighter location.

One thing to remember with lighting, though, is that Pothos does not like to be in direct sunlight! This will cause the leaves to start looking dull and they may even turn a pale-yellow color. This is a sign of a “plant sunburn” from too much light. So adjust accordingly. If your pothos is losing its variegation and colors, then this is a sign of too little light. However, if your plant is turning a pale yellow, too much light. Simple, right?!

Pothos Vine Care: Water Requirements

As for watering, pothos plants can be easier than most indoor plants, but there are a few points to consider. This is because pothos can do well growing in a pot with soil, or can grow in straight water! But if your plant has been living in soil, you don’t want to put it in straight water and vice versa. These plants adapt very well so if it’s in soil, then only water when the top inch of soil has dried. Too much water and they will start to rot. But if it’s in water, then keep it in water and just make sure that the water is changed out every two weeks.

Pothos plants can adjust from water to soil, but they need to be well-watered during this transition.

If your leaves are a bright yellow color, then your plant is too dry. You can let the leaves get a little wilted before watering, but if they curl or turn yellow, then you’ve waited too long. On the flip side, if your plant’s new and older growth turns black, then this is a sign that it is either being over-watered, or that the air temperature is too low. (They don’t like being in air colder than about 50° F.)

Pothos Vine Care: Fertilizer & Pot Choice

Remember that Pothos in soil like to get a bit root-bound, so don’t re-pot it until the roots have filled out the container. They can also be fertilized once every two to three months during the summer. Only be careful because too much fertilizer (large amounts every week) can cause stunted growth. Personally, I feel that Pothos generally grows fast enough and doesn’t need any additional fertilizer, but it is really up to you. If you want a plant with huge, 2 foot leaves, then it’ll need fertilizer and plenty of light.

Also, make sure that your pot has at least one good drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. This is recommended for all houseplants as excess water can pool at the bottom of your pot, causing root rot, which is one of the few ways this plant could potentially die. If you tend to have problems with knowing when to water your pothos, I would recommend using a self-watering pot.

Quick story with this self-watering pot… One day last year I came home with two 3″ pothos (a golden and a marble queen). I placed them both in my office, and loved them so much! But a few weeks after purchasing, I received a few self-watering pots in the mail. So, my golden pothos ended up getting placed in a self-watering pot directly underneath my plant light, while my marble queen was left in her 6″ pot near the light, but not directly under it…

Fast forward about three months, and my golden pothos was DOUBLE the size of my marble queen!

This just shows how much a plant light and a self-watering pot can do to make your plant LOVE YOU!!!

*Update: Since this experiment, I have switched my marble queen to a self-watering pot, and she is starting to grow like crazy too, even though it’s winter time (aka NOT the typical growing season!)*

Pothos Vine Care: Pruning Tips

A lot of people also have a hard time keeping their Pothos from becoming too long and thin. We want a bushy-looking, full trailing vine. This only comes with regular trimming. Simply cut off the ends of the vines every month or so. You can either re-pot them in a light potting mix, such as vermiculite, or simply grow them in a glass of water. This will not only make your plant look healthy and vibrant, but will also give you plenty more little Pothos plants to add into your home!

Pothos Vine Care: Propagation

Pothos vines are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate due to its aerial roots and fast growth rate. For information on how to propagate your pothos, (and how to get PERFECT stem cuttings…) check out my post on Pothos Propagation!

Be aware: This plant is toxic to pets and children who may ingest large quantities of plant material. It isn’t fatal, but it may cause irritation and vomiting. It may also cause a skin rash for some people who have very highly sensitive skin. Check out my list of plants that are toxic to pets, as well as my list of non-toxic houseplants!

Well there are my tips! I hope you decide to pick up one of these little guys, or root out your own cutting! They are seriously one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and are great for those who want a low-maintenance, low-light option!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do Pothos Plants Need a lot of Sunlight?

Yes and no. If you are okay with your leaves losing their yellow or white markings, then they will be just fine in low-light conditions. However, if you want your pothos to grow faster, and keep its beautiful colorings, then it will need enough light to keep it happy. This means lots of bright, indirect sunlight, as hot, direct sunlight can potentially burn your pothos vines.

How do you make Pothos Happy?

The easiest way to make a pothos happy is to stick it in a self-watering pot in an east- or west-facing window. They also love bright bathrooms where they can enjoy high humidity levels. (Just make sure there isn’t too much sun in the hot afternoons!)

Why are Pothos Leaves turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves are usually a sign of either too little water, or too little sunlight. This is the plant’s way of coping with an unfavorable environment. To fix this, simply increase your watering (to have moist soil that only slightly dries out between watering). You can also move it to a location with more light, or consider bringing in additional lighting, such as fluorescent lighting or LED lights that are made for indoor plants.

Do Pothos like to be Watered?

Yes, pothos like to be watered. But make sure that you have good drainage in your pot so that any excess water can flow out of your pot. Then let the soil lightly dry out in between watering. This means that you will naturally water less in the winter months and more in the summer months. If you aren’t sure about watering, grab a Soil Water Meter!

Should I mist my Pothos?

Misting a pothos is generally unnecessary. However, in the winter months, indoor air can be dry and your plant can become dusty. These dry, dusty conditions can attract spider mites. If you see these insects, then definitely start misting (as well as treating with an insecticidal soap). This is because spider mites DO NOT like to be wet!

How do you tell if Pothos is Overwatered?

First, your soil will be wet. If you can press the top of the soil, and water appears, then there is too much water! Next, your pothos will be wilted, and there can possibly be brown spots on the leaves or stems that feel mushy to the touch. Your plant will also feel somewhat fat because the leaves are filled with water. Make sure your pot has drainage holes, and that your soil feels slightly dry to the touch every 5 days or so.

How do you Train a Pothos to Climb?

Pothos vines have aerial roots that will only grow into moist, natural materials. This is something like a moss pole, or in nature, a tree trunk. To get a pothos to climb indoors, however, simply use plant ties, command hooks, or even pieces of string to train your pothos up any vertical support.

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The 5 Signs your Plants Need Filtered Water

Do you REALLY need filtered water for your plants? I know there is a huge controversy about benefits vs costs, but after doing some research (… a LOT of research…), I’ve found that yes, effects can be small. But small things add up. 

A favorite podcaster of mine always stresses this when he points out that if you had a penny that doubled every day for only 30 days, by the end of the month you would have over 5 MILLION dollars! Just from a single penny! (Rob Dial, The Mindset Mentor)

So when I think about watering my plants, I think about how many drops I am giving them every day, every week, every year. It really adds up! And that’s why I use filtered water.

But the decision is ultimately up to you. I’m just here to point out the 5 signs that your plants might need filtered water. 

*Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me keep providing this information to all of you. But, I only promote products that I have personally tried and love!*

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Sign #1 – Brown leaf tips, or brown, dying spots

Brown leaf tips and brown, dying (necrotic) spots can be caused by a few different factors, but they have both been linked to problems with water contamination. Now, this isn’t saying that your tap water is dangerous to drink… instead, it’s just dangerous to some of your more sensitive plants.

These two contaminants are chlorine, a chemical used to kill harmful bacteria in water, and flouride, a chemical that is actually added to water as it helps people have healthier teeth.

An excess of chlorine is what contributes to brown leaf tips in sensitive plants. These plants include: palms, spider plants, dracaena, azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc.

An excess of fluoride, however, causes necrotic spots along leaf edges. These fluoride-sensitive plants include those listed above as well as ti plants, prayer plants, and calatheas.

So if your plants are showing either of these symptoms, then it’s a sign you need filtered water.

Sign #2 – It’s hot outside

You might not know this, but the concentration of chemicals in your drinking water will actually change with the weather. This is because most water treatment plants are outdoors, and the variation in temperatures can cause different levels of bacterial and microbial growth.

It has been seen that as it gets hotter, water treatment plants need to use more chlorine than usual to kill these microbes. So if it’s getting hot outside, then not only will your plants need more water, but they will also have a higher chance of absorbing too much chlorine.

https://medium.com/@HomeWaterPros/chlorine-levels-in-drinking-water-reach-their-peak-during-the-end-of-summer-77e4f8b72358

Sign #3 – Your Soil is Turning White

A common question that a lot of people ask me is… “What is that white stuff on my soil? And how do I get rid of it?” The short answer is, this is a mineral build-up, and you need to leach it from the soil.

The problem with this short answer, though, is that this mineral build-up is most commonly caused by sodium carbonate… a chemical used to “soften” water (which usually makes it taste better when we drink it). 

These salts, while they might not be too harmful to us, can eventually lead to some major problems for our plants, especially if the soil is never replaced or leached. (After all, there’s a reason why the Salt Flats don’t have a lot of vegetation y’all!)

So, I recommend that people leach out their pots… (running a bunch of water through the soil to flush out any harmful chemicals or built-up minerals). This will be harder for those of you with garden plants, but even with indoor plants, it can take a lot of time and a warm location where the soil can dry.

The one problem, though, is how useful is leaching if you’re using the same water that contains the same amounts of sodium as before? So you see how it really is a short-term solution that doesn’t change the root of the problem.

Sign #4 – Your Plant isn’t Growing as Big

This sign is mainly for outdoor and garden plants, but it can also apply to indoor plants.

To dive into the “why” of this sign, we need to remember that water treatment plants have the goal to kill microbes that are living in our water. In fact, it is the water treatment plants that help keep us safe from cholera, E. coli, and Giardia. So they add chlorine, trihalomethanes (TTHM), and haloacetic acids (HAA5) to our water to kill any living microbes.

The problem with this, though, is that it kills beneficial microbes as well.

These beneficial microbes (like mycorrhizae) help break down nutrients in the soil so they can be absorbed by the plant roots. This is one reason why most quality fertilizers contain beneficial microbes.

So if your plants aren’t growing as fast, it could be because the chemicals in your water are killing these beneficial microbes, leaving your plants on their own.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/chlorine-toxicity

Sign #5 – You’re Not on Well Water

Well water can actually be better for plants than city water because it usually has fewer disinfecting chemicals, less or no fluoride, and higher mineral (a.k.a. nutrient) concentrations. But if you’re on “city” water, then you might like it more, but your plants will get the short end of the stick!

Those are the 5 signs that your plants need filtered water.

And if you’re now thinking you need a filter, I personally use and love this water filter system from GrowMax Water. I chose this one because I can use it for my indoor plants all winter (when it’s cold outside!), and then I can bring it outdoors in the summer to use for my garden!

It’s super light and connects to both under my sink, and onto my spigot! I just love this little guy!

filter option if your plants need filtered water

If you have any more plant-related questions, feel free to comment below or shoot me an email. You can also join my Facebook group, “Houseplants for Plant Killers” to receive personalized help and plant tips whenever you need!

Happy Digging!

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3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

Please leave any additional comments or questions below and sign up for my email list to receive even more tips and tricks to help keep your houseplants alive!

Happy Digging!

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How to Stop Over Watering your Succulents

I get it. You buy a succulent, you lovingly water it, and then three days later it has died… What went wrong?! Then you discover the ugly truth. You’ve been over watering your succulents! Don’t worry. We’ve all been there. But how exactly do you stop? And how do you keep your little guys alive?! Keep reading, cause I’ll show you exactly how to stop over watering your succulents!

There are a couple of different reasons why your succulent is being over watered. First, it could be because you are simply adding too much water to its pot.

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Reason #1: Using Too Much Water

To fix this, only add small amounts of water each time you are watering.

Sounds simple, right?!

Well, it can actually be super difficult if you’re using a regular watering can to water those tiny little pots.

This is why it’s BEST to water your succulents with one of these!

These succulent watering bottles are designed to give you the ultimate control over how much your succulent is watered. It also has a small nozzle, which positions the water stream to exactly where you want it! No more wet succulent leaves, and no more wet plant shelves!

Reason #2: Not Enough Drainage

The next thing to consider with over watering succulents is how fast your water is draining out of its pot.

In a succulent’s native habitat, water will move quickly into, then out of a plant’s reach. This is done either through the water quickly sinking down through the sandy or rocky soil, or water will escape through evaporation due to the sun’s heat. Either way, the soil does not stay wet for long.

Which means… succulents are not accustomed to having their roots constantly wet. In fact, they’re used to having moderately dry roots.

Because of this, we need to allow the water in our own pots to move down and out of the soil.

To do this, we will need:

  1. Soil that drains well
  2. Pots that drain well

Well-Draining Soil

For well-draining soil, either amend regular soil with sand and perlite (at a rate of 1/3 soil, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 perlite), or consider purchasing a pre-mixed soil, such as this cactus and succulent soil!

Well-Draining Pots

To have well-draining pots, first make sure that your pot’s soil-to-root ratio is correct. (A.k.a., don’t use a large pot for a small succulent). This is extremely important!!!

If your succulent is small, use a small pot.

Also, look for shallow pots. Don’t purchase anything too deep.

Then, make sure that your pots have drainage holes!!!

I can’t stress this enough! Succulents NEED pots with drainage holes!

If you want to group your succulents together, get a pot that is specifically made for grouping succulents. These will be shallow, wide, and have drainage holes. Check out these pots for succulent groupings.

And for pot ideas, check out my post on Indoor Plant Pots. Just make sure you pick out pots that are proportionate to the size of your succulents!!!

So remember, add less water, and improve drainage of your soil and your pots! If you do all of these above steps, you will never over water your succulents again! Let me know if you have any more succulent-related questions in the comments below! And for more succulent tips, check out my post on Succulent Care, or my post, How Often should I Water my Succulent?!

Happy Digging!

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Common Problems with Christmas Cactus and How to Fix Them

Isn’t it frustrating when your plant (that looked so great at the store!) comes home and slowly starts looking like it’s about to die?! If this is the story of you and your Christmas cactus, just know that it’s okay.

You are not the only person who has a hard time keeping this tropical cactus alive…

And today, I’m going to show you the five most common problems people run into with their Christmas cactus. Knowing these problems and implementing their solutions will turn your dying Christmas cactus back into its glorious cactus self again soon!

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Problem #1: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Limp & Droopy

Cause #1: There are two different reasons why your Christmas cactus’ leaves are limp and droopy. The first reason is if it is currently flowering. Producing flowers takes a lot of energy away from the plant and many people have said that their plants become droopy during and just after flowering.

Care: If this is you, then simply wait until your plant has finished flowering, then make sure to let it rest for a few weeks with no fertilizer and only little water. Only water it when the soil is dry to the touch. After these few weeks, you can then resume your care as normal.

Cause #2: The second reason for limp or droopy leaves is because of improper watering. This is also a cause for wilted or shriveled leaves. So if your plant’s leaves are limp and droopy, and it isn’t currently flowering, then improper watering is the cause.

Care: Refer to the next section for shriveled or wilted leaf care.

Christmas Cactus Limp Leaves
Image courtesy of Garden.org

Problem #2: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Shriveled or Wilted

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves will wilt and shrivel up when the leaves aren’t getting enough water due to improper watering. This can be from either over-watering or under-watering. Feel the soil several inches below the soil surface, or use a soil moisture meter to determine if your soil has been kept too wet or too dry.

Care #1: If your soil is too wet, then you will most likely have damaged roots. You should immediately re-pot your Christmas cactus into fresh soil that is only lightly moist. While re-potting, trim off any black or mushy roots and pour hydrogen peroxide over the root system. This will kill any remaining bacteria before you place it into fresh soil. Also, take stem cuttings at this time to propagate, following the directions in Christmas Cactus Propagation. This will ensure that even if your plants’ roots die, you will still have cuttings to re-grow your Christmas cactus.

Care #2: On the flip side, if your plant is too dry, then you will need to slowly increase the moisture levels over a few days. Slowly bring it from bone dry back to lightly moist. You will know you’ve been successful when your plant’s leaves perk back up! Just be sure that you don’t end up over-watering your plant at this time. Remember, let it barely dry out before you water it again.

Also note that if your plant’s soil is hard and difficult to press your fingers into, then you will need to re-pot your plant into fresh, well-draining soil, such as a cactus and succulent soil or a regular soil mixed with additional sand or perlite.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #3: Your Plant’s Leaves are Pale or Red

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves begin to turn pale and then get a slight red tint if they are getting too much direct sunlight. The red tint can be pretty (and harmless in the right settings), but make sure that it isn’t getting burnt. Remember, these plants are tropical cacti, not desert cacti. So they are used to a very moist heat, not a dry heat like what you find in a home window. So if your leaves are turning a pale greenish-yellow color, or are excessively red, then it’s too much hot, direct sunlight.

Care: Move your Christmas cactus out of any direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight will be fine, but try to avoid any direct sunlight for at least a little while.

These plants can eventually become accustomed to higher light levels, but this would take a lot of acclimatizing. Instead, I would suggest you take the easier route and simply move it away from the hot sunlight.

Image courtesy of houzz.com

Problem #4: You Christmas Cactus’ Stems are Falling Off

Cause: The reason why your plant’s stems are falling off is because of root- or stem rot at the base of the plant. This always happens as a result of over-watering.

Care: Follow the care instructions for over-watering under the “Wilted or Shriveled Leaves” section (Problem #2, Care #1). This will tell you exactly how to care for a plant that has been over-watered.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #5: Flower Buds Fall off Before they Fully Bloom

Cause: Christmas cactus flower are notorious for being overly-sensitive. The reasons why your buds fell off could be because of your plant getting too dry, staying too wet, or because it recently moved locations.

Care: When your plant is in bud, make sure to keep your watering schedule consistent. But, if something comes up (or you’ve just recently brought your plant home) and all of its buds fall off, sit tight.

Let it rest for a few weeks, keeping it a bit more dry than usual, and give it a chance to set new buds. Sometimes if it is healthy enough, a Christmas cactus is able to produce a second set of blooms. So don’t get frustrated! Your little plant might just need a bit more time!

Image courtesy of gardeningknowhow.com

Those are the 5 most common Christmas cactus problems and how to fix them! Please let me know below if you have any questions or additional comments, and join my email list to get not only a special welcome gift, but to also receive all the latest tips and how-to’s straight to your inbox. Then, for more info on how to take care of your plant, check out my post, Christmas Cactus Plant Care!

Happy Digging!

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Lucky Bamboo Plant Care

Lucky Bamboo is a common houseplant that is famous for its ability to grow in pure water. But this ability also comes with its own challenges. So here is everything you need to know about lucky bamboo plant care. Let’s keep your plant green, growing, and pest-free!

*Don’t have one of these plants yet? You can buy lucky bamboo plants here!*

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Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Light Requirements

As you might already know, Lucky Bamboo isn’t actually a bamboo plant. Instead, it is actually a Dracaena. Because of this, it needs to be treated like a dracaena, especially when it comes to lighting.

Place your lucky bamboo somewhere it will only get indirect sunlight. Keep it out of direct sunlight. This plant will easily burn if it gets too much direct sunlight. If this happens, the leaf will begin to turn a pale yellow color. These portions can be trimmed off and removed, only make sure that it is safe from getting sunburned in the future. This plant also does well in low light situations but growth will be slower.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Keep your lucky bamboo out of direct sunlight.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Water Requirements

I usually see one of two problems with lucky bamboo watering. First, people buy large, tall vases for their bamboo plant and fill the entire, tall base with water. This can be very bad for your plant. IF the water level is too far above the root system, then it has to potential to cause stem rot. Instead, only water your plant until the roots have about an inch of water covering them.

The second problem that I see is watering with tap water. Dracaenas are particularly susceptible to the chlorine and mineral deposits that are contained in tap water. If the sides of your container has a white, crusty layer, or if the tips of your plant are turning yellow, this is a sign that you’ll need to switch to distilled or bottled water.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Here's how much water you should have in your pot.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Additional Tips

I’ve heard people go back and forth on fertilizer needs of this plant, but I highly recommend it. To fertilize correctly though, purchase special lucky bamboo fertilizer. Then, only fertilize two to three times each summer, starting with a single application in the spring once your plant is starting to produce new growth.

Next, make sure that you are changing out the water in your container. This is very important to do, as algae or bacteria can start growing in your containers and can even cause root rot in your plants. Change out the water every 2 weeks.

If you see any algae or bacterial growth, thoroughly clean your container and any pebbles or rocks you have in it. Then, rinse your plant’s roots well and place it back in the container. Repeat this once a week until no algae or bacteria has been seen for a month, then you can go back to changing out the water every two weeks.

It is also best to fertilize your plant when you add new water so your lucky bamboo will have a week or two to absorb the nutrients before the water is switched out.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Fertilizer and changing out the water will keep your plant healthy and green.

I hope you enjoy carrying for your lucky bamboo plant and that it brings you added prosperity and happiness! Leave any additional comments or questions below!

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How to Care for Christmas Cactus

Care-for-Christmas-Cactus-Cover

A Christmas cactus can be a beautiful and fun houseplant to own! Not only does it add a bit of warmth to the holidays, but if given good treatment, it can bloom every Christmas for up to 30 years! Now that’s one long life for a plant! But to keep our Christmas cactus alive and well for all those years, we need to know how to properly care for our Christmas cactus! So here’s what you need to know…

Don’t have a Christmas cactus yet? You can get one here!

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Care for Christmas Cactus: Light Requirements

For proper care, we first need to realize that this cactus, a Schlumbergera species, is not like or normal cacti originating from central America to the western United States. Nope… this cactus actually originates from a coastal climate in Brazil. So that being said, it isn’t used to those long hours of hot, direct sunlight. Instead, place it in an east- or west- facing window so that it gets direct sunlight in the mornings or evenings, but it stays protected from any hot, afternoon sunlight.

Here's what you need to know to care for christmas cactus... light requirements...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Water Requirements

Being a coastal cactus, this plant needs some interesting watering techniques. First, only water your Christmas cactus when the soil feels dry to the touch (about 2 inches or 5 cm down from the surface). Too much water, and your cactus will start turning yellow and the leaves will get fast and mushy. If this happens, it’s best to take some cuttings from the healthy part of your plant to propagate in case your entire plant dies from being over-watered. Here are the 3 methods you can use for Christmas Cactus Propagation. So basically let’s avoid this by only watering once the soil feels dry to the touch!

The next tip I have for you is to give your plant higher humidity levels, especially during the time when it had buds on it. If your plant doesn’t get enough humidity, or it is getting either too little water or too much water, it will drop all of its buds. So once your plant’s buds form, lightly mist it every day.

Water requirements for Christmas cactus care...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Additional Tips

As well as misting, once your plant’s buds form, you will also want to be giving it a high-phosphorous plant food once every two weeks. This will help it to stay healthy while it is at it’s most vulnerable. Next, to help with correct watering, it is VITAL that you keep it in a light, well-draining soil, such as in a cactus and succulent potting soil.

Also, as your plant blooms, remove any dead or wilting flowers. This helps it to produce even more flowers as it senses that it’s seeds didn’t fully ripen. It also keeps your Christmas cactus looking fresh and healthy! Then, once your plant has finished blooming, re-pot it into fresh soil, keeping the pot small enough to have the roots just a little cramped. Then just let it sit and enjoy it’s morning or evening sun until the following September when you’ll want to prompt it to start blooming once again!

Here are the additional tips for care for Christmas cactus...

That’s how to care for your Christmas cactus! And once again, for information on how to propagate your plant, check out my post, 3 Easy Ways to Propagate Christmas Cactus! If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends! Simply click on your favorite social button and it will let you share this post, no copying and pasting required! I hope you all have a wonderful holiday season and I hope your Christmas cactus stays beautiful all year round!

Happy Digging!

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