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How to Care for Monstera Deliciosa (and grow HUGE leaves!)

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Monstera deliciosa, also known as the Swiss Cheese plant, is one of the main tropical plants for every houseplant owner… these indoor plants have become a rite of passage for every serious plant person! This can be a good thing, though, as monstera plants can be relatively forgiving, as long as you know a few tricks. So here is everything you need to know to not only keep your monstera alive and healthy, but to also have it grow large, beautifully fenestrated leaves that you can’t wait to show off to your friends!

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Monstera Care: Light Requirements

Monstera thrives in bright, indirect sunlight. Place your monstera near a window where it can get some natural light, but make sure to avoid direct sunlight, which can cause leaf scorch. This is seen as brown markings that start along the leaf edges. If you don’t have a bright spot in your home where you can put your Monstera, consider using grow lights to provide it with the light it needs. My personal monstera did quite well under grow lights, though if you want those large leaves, then nothing compares to lots of bright, natural light (which is once again NOT HOT, direct sunlight!)

One sign you might notice if your monstera isn’t getting enough light is that your plant’s leaves will be small, and will also start to be long and stretched out. If this is your plant, you would do well to place it in a location with more bright light, as well as consider pruning it back to help it form a sturdy base instead of a long, spindly one. (And make sure to propagate any cuttings at this time too!)

A picture of monstera leaves being sunlit and shadowed

Monstera Care: Water Requirements

Monstera deliciosa plants are considered to need medium watering amounts. This means that they would like evenly moist soil, but make sure to let your plant dry out to the top inch of soil before watering again. If your plant receives too much water, it could get root rot, which would kill your entire plant fast! So make sure that you have a regular watering routine, but that you also use a light, well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes. This will allow any excess water to drain out of the pot, which will help you avoid any overwatering issues!

During the growing season (usually spring through fall when it gets more light and warmer temperatures), your monstera will need a lot of water. But then, during the dormant season (usually during the winter months), you will need to decrease your watering. Because of this fluctuation in watering amounts it is a good idea for you to always be feeling the soil or use a soil moisture meter to determine if the soil is wet or dry BEFORE adding more water to your pot!

A monstera in a silver ceramic pot on a brown dresser

Monstera Care: Soil Tips

As mentioned above, this houseplant needs soil that drains well. This will help you avoid overwatering and root rot. For this, you should use a light potting mix… something that is specifically made for indoor plants, or a regular potting soil that is mixed with either sand or perlite. If this makes your pot too light, though, (especially if you use perlite), then you can place rocks in the bottom of your pot to keep it from falling over.

A monstera in a cream ceramic on a wooden stool

Monstera Care: Training it UP to Grow

One essential tip for monstera plants is that it NEEDS to be trained up a moss pole! Monstera plants are originally from the rainforests of central america. In its natural habitat, it uses aerial roots to wrap around tree trunks and climb its way to better light conditions high above in the canopy. Only then will it shoot out its large leaves!

This means that you will need to mimic this natural environment by giving it lots of bright indirect sunlight (to make it think it doesn’t need to climb any higher for light), and you will need to give it a moss pole to give it something to attach to. I’ve found that a sphagnum moss pole works the best, and if your plant still needs some help, you can give it some encouragement and wrap its aerial roots around your moss pole. Then secure the roots with plant ties or a bit of string.

Monstera being trained up to a moss pole

Monstera Care: Fertilizer is a MUST!!!

The next thing you need if you want a beautiful plant is you NEED to fertilize your little guy! Be careful not to over-fertilize, but definitely use your fertilizer to the maximum recommended dosage. This will vary based on the strength of your fertilizer, but this usually will have you fertilizing your monstera every 2 to 4 weeks. 

The addition of fertilizer will boost your new growth to become larger with greater fenestrations (or holes) in the leaves. The one caution, however, is that you should only fertilize your monstera during periods of growth. This is usually from spring through fall. Fertilization during the winter can cause chemical burn to your plant.

Close up picture of various monstera leaves

Monstera Care: How to Propagate…

The best way to propagate your monstera plant is through stem cuttings and rooting in water. I’ve found this is the easiest and fastest way to get new plants! First, you need to locate a leaf node. This is usually the junction where a leaf stem attaches to a main stem. It will also have a brown bump on the other side of this junction. This is where a root will form (or might have already started forming!). 

Simply cut off a portion of your stem that includes this leaf node, then place the leaf cutting in water. Replace the water every week or so, and within a few weeks, you should have new roots growing!

propagated monstera on a window seal

Once your roots are at least a couple of inches long, then you can transition your cuttings into soil. Pot your cutting into a well-draining soil mix, and make sure that it stays a little more moist for a couple of weeks while the roots are establishing in the soil. 

Also, when you transition your cutting into soil, you will also need to provide support (since your roots won’t be able to hold the weight of your plant for a couple of weeks at least!). What I’ve done in the past is simply get a few straight sticks and bury them in the pot as well. Then I’ll tie my monstera stem onto the stick. Many different support systems will work, I’ve just found this to be the easiest and cheapest way to provide support.

*Quick Tip: You can also use this time to place a moss pole for your plant to climb! It might not have any aerial roots for a while, but if you’ve got it ready now then why wait, right?!

After a few weeks the root system should be established enough to hold the plant upright without the help of any support. Then, within a few months you should have a plethora of beautiful new leaves, signaling that you now don’t have a cutting… now you have your very own new plant!

a monstera in an ff white pot

*Bonus Quick Tip: You can take monstera cuttings and place them in a decorative vase. Then you will have an attractive, living floral piece in your home! I’ve kept cuttings in a vase for a very long time (aka… MONTHS!) and they do GREAT!!! In fact, they looked so good, my neighbor asked if she could have some to put in her home! So definitely use this to your advantage…

This wraps up my Monstera deliciosa care tips! If you have any other questions, check out the Frequently Asked Questions section below. If this still doesn’t answer your question, then feel free to put up some pics on our Facebook group, Houseplants for Plant Killers! This is where I can personally help you along your plant journey! 

Wanting more, check out my Youtube channel for more awesomesauce plant tips!

Happy Digging!

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Frequently Asked Questions:

Is monstera easy to grow?

Monstera deliciosa is a relatively easy to care for houseplant. This plant does enjoy brighter lights, however, so if you only have low light, then I would recommend purchasing a different houseplant for your space. But if you do have an east, west, or south facing window, then go ahead an treat yourself to a beautiful monstera!

Where do Monstera plants grow best?

Monstera plants (as houseplants) grow best in any location that has bright indirect light and that is not affected by any cold breezes or heavy traffic. It also grows better with high humidity levels, so a bright bathroom would be the first best location. If this isn’t possible, don’t worry. As long as it gets plenty of bright, indirect light it will still do well in your home!

How do you grow healthy Monstera?

Healthy monsteras come from a combination of good lighting, proper watering, frequent fertilizer, and a moss pole (or similar) to allow it to climb. If your monstera has all of these things, then you should have a large, happy plant!

How often should I water Monstera?

Monstera plants should be kept moist, but need to be able to lightly dry in between watering. Watering amount and frequency will depend on your light situation, size of plant and pot, time of year, and type of soil and drainage. Overall, you should be watering about once every week, decreasing to no more than once every two weeks in the winter.

Should I put my monstera outside?

Placing your monstera outdoors can give it access to brighter light conditions, which could help it grow faster and larger! However, make sure that it stays in partial shade and NEVER in hot, direct sunlight. This could burn your monstera leaves. Also, make sure to bring your plant indoors if temperatures ever fall below 50 F or above 100 F to keep your plant safe.

How to Effortlessly Care for a Pilea peperomioides Plant

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Pilea peperomioides has become extremely popular as a houseplant in the past several years! Originating in the yunnan province of southern China, it seems like everyone wants one of these cute little guys with its round, saucer-like leaves that seem to bounce with every movement! It is also boasted as being a beginner houseplant that many people can easily take care of!

Unfortunately, I’ve found that without proper instruction or care information, this plant can actually be difficult for beginners. But don’t worry. Because this article has eveything you need to know to be able to set up your plant for success, so that it becomes the easy, low-maintenance plant that everyone talks about!

So if you want your plant to have huge, full leaves like you see on social media, then you’ll definitely need to read below to find out exactly how to care for your pilea peperomioides!

Note: This article may contain affiliate links, which help to support this website at no additional cost to you!

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In this article we are talking about pilea peperomioides, which is also known as:

  • Chinese money plant
  • UFO plant
  • pancake plant
  • missionary plant
  • friendship plant
  • coin plant

These names are also given to other houseplants, such as plants within the crassula and kalanchoe families. So if you have one of these little guys, make sure you become familiar with its scientific name! This will help you avoid a mix-up in the future!

Pilea Peperomioides Light Requirements

a pilea peperomioides in a hanging pot

The pilea peperomioides may look like a tropical plant, but it is actually a type of semi-succulent. Being a succulent, it prefers lots of bright, indirect light. It can even handle short periods of direct sunlight, but too much sun can cause the leaves to turn yellow. Because of this “bright, but not too bright” balance, this little plant can be quite picky until it finds its perfect place within your home.

Some signs you can look for are that if your plant isn’t growing very quickly (or at all), it could be needing more light. Once it is moved to a brighter location, it should begin to grow more new leaves. (This is what happened to my pilea when I first got it! While it wasn’t getting enough light, it didn’t seem to grow at all… then I moved it into an east-facing window, and boom! New growth like crazy!)

On the flip side, if your plant is getting too much light, the leaves will begin to curl outward (like an umbrella), and there might even be “sunburn” spots on the leaves. This shows up as yellow or brown spots on the leaves.

An arrow pointing to the pilea peperomioides leaves starting to curl downward due to too much light

Once your plant has found its perfect light spot, be sure to rotate the pot every couple of days. This is because the pilea tends to bend towards the light. So if you want your plant to look full and not curvy, make sure to rotate it!

Pilea Peperomioides Water Requirements

If you have other succulents, then you’ll know just how to water your pilea! This is because it likes consistent watering, but it also needs good drainage and doesn’t like to have its roots wet for long. If it stays wet for too long, it will be susceptible to root rot. Look for leaves that fall off without wilting, as well as thick, browning leaf stems. This is a sure sign of overwatering and means that you need to either lower your watering frequency, increase drainage in your pot, or possibly even move it to a smaller pot (so there isn’t as much moist soil).

The key here is that you don’t want to give it too much water, and make sure that you also don’t let it sit in water for long periods of time!

Another key to be aware of is that your pilea doesn’t like hard tap water. If you start to see holes in your plants’ leaves, then make sure that you switch to either distilled water, rainwater, or filtered water. Also, if you start to see white spots on the bottom of your leaves, this could be a mineral buildup from hard water. If you see these white spots, then you can wipe them clean with a damp cloth, being careful to not damage any of the leaves. Then switch to either filtered, distilled, or rain water. Here is the water filter that I personally use for my plants! (I have the smaller, indoor plant filter that I’ve installed under my bathroom sink!)

A final sign of water stress is when your pilea is changing its leaf shape. If the leaves are curling upward (like a cup), then this is a sign that it is receiving too much water. Be sure to either improve drainage in your pot, or to let it dry out a bit more between watering. This means that you need to let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry before you water your plant again. In smaller pots and plants, this might mean you are watering your pilea every couple of days, but in larger plants, this could mean you are watering once a week or so. Then adjust your watering schedule in the spring and fall during the seasonal changes in the growing season.

An arrow pointing to the pilea peperomioides leaves starting to curl upward due to too much water

Pilea Peperomioides Fertilizer

Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every other month during spring and summer (or according to the fertilizer label!). Your plant will be much happier with a nutrient boost! Use a well-balanced fertilizer (meaning that all three numbers are about the same) if you want an overall healthy plant. I personally use the Miracle-Gro Houseplant fertilizer, since it is at a low concentration so I can fertilize my plants whenever I water and I don’t have to worry about over-fertilizing. I’ve used other fertilizers in the past, but have found some to have strong odors. I’ll keep this updated if I find anything I like more!

Note: Be sure that you don’t fertilize your plant during the winter months when it is dormant. This can cause your pilea (and most other houseplants) to get a chemical burn.

a pilea peperomioides in a cream pot

Pilea Soil and Potting Needs

Like most succulents, pilea peperomioides plants do best with a well-draining soil. This can either be a cactus and succulent soil mix, or regular houseplant soil amended with sand or perlite. This also includes making sure that your pot has at least one drainage hole to allow any excess water to drain out the bottom of the pot.

Also be sure that your pot isn’t too large for your plant. A good rule of thumb is to make your pot slightly smaller than how wide your plant is. This will ensure that the roots have plenty of space to grow, but they also don’t have too much soil, which can hold excess water and cause overwatering problems. It’s better to let it get a bit root-bound than to have your plant in a pot that is too large.

Some good pot choices for this plant is either a terracotta pot or a plastic pot, as long as it has holes in the bottom that allow for good drainage. If it doesn’t have any holes, then you can easily drill your own holes with some tape and a drill!

two hands holding a pilea peperomioides in a brown pot

Pilea Peperomioides Temperature

When it comes to the pilea plants, there is a lot of confusion about what the optimal temperature range is. Many people believe that this plant needs to be kept in a warm environment at all times, but this isn’t true. In fact, pilea plant can thrive in a wide variety of temperatures, making it an excellent choice for those who live in colder climates. The ideal temperature range for your plant is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

The only caution that I have, however, is that while your plant is in lower temperatures in the winter, this usually also means that it will have lower light levels and may even go dormant. To account for this, you need to also lower your watering. If not, you might find yourself with root rot problems.

Pilea Peperomioides Pests

While this plant is generally pest free, there are a few pests that can occasionally bother this little guy. Identification and proper treatment of these pests is vital for keeping your plant healthy. Just make sure that as soon as you find insects on your plant, that you separate it from any other houseplants that are not yet infected. This can greatly reduce the spread.

The most common pests that affect this plant are spider mites and mealybugs.

To control for spider mites, you can mist your plant with water every few days (spider mites don’t like being wet!), or you can try spraying it with an insecticidal soap or neem oil.

a close up picture of pilea peperomioides leaf damage from spidermites

For mealybugs, it is important that you spray your plant thoroughly with an insecticidal soap. Most mealybugs like to stay in little corners of your plants, which makes it very difficult to reach when spraying. I’ve found it most helpful to repeat applications every few weeks (according to the instructions on the label). For smaller plants, or to get rid of your mealybugs quickly, you can also comb through your plant with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Simply coat the mealybugs with the alcohol and this will be enough to kill them.

Fungus gnats can also be a problem with this plant, but they usually only appear if you are also giving your plant too much water. By fixing your watering habits, this should keep the soil more on the dry side, which will also keep the fungus gnats away!

Pilea peperomioides Propagation

The Pilea peperomioides is an easy-to-propagate houseplant. There are several methods for propagating this plant, but the most popular (and easiest methods) are by division and by stem cuttings.

Division: The easiest way to propagate this plant is by dividing the mother plant and the baby plants it into several new plants. Simply take your plant out of its pot, loosen the soil, and separate the baby plant from the mother plant and repot it into its own new pot.

An arrow pointing to the baby pilea peperomioides leaves

If you don’t have any baby plants, then you can also divide your plant into several smaller plants by cutting it into 3-inch pieces with a sharp knife and rooting these sections in water or soil. This method is a bit more risky, however, so I would suggest that if you don’t have any baby plants that you instead use the stem cutting method.

Stem Cuttings: Another way to propagate this plant is by taking stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, you will need to prune leaves from the main stem of your plant. The best time to take stem cuttings is when new growth begins to appear on the plant. When removing the leaf from the mother plant, you will need to use a sharp knife to cut away a small (think scale-like) portion of the stem. This stem portion will be where the new roots will grow.

two hands holding pilea peperomioides plant in a white ceramic pot

In conclusion, the pilea plant is a low-maintenance houseplant that can be enjoyed by anyone as long as you follow these simple care tips and remember to treat it more like your succulent plants (with a bit less sunlight). But by implementing these care tips, your plant will grow and thrive in your home and you’ll have your very own insta-worthy plant in no time!

For more ideas on what plants to grow as beginners, check out my post on Hard-to-Kill Houseplants! Then, if you want personalized plant care help, join my Facebook group Houseplants for Plant Killers! Because we’re all on this journey together!

Happy Digging!

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Frequently Asked Questions:

How often do you water a Pilea?

How often you should water your Pilea depends on a variety of factors, including the climate, pot size, and type of soil. In general, aim to water your Pilea every 5 to 7 days or so. The best rule of thumb is if the potting mix feels dry to the touch an inch below the surface, it’s time to water again.

Do Pilea like to be misted?

Pilea plants enjoy higher levels of humidity, so yes, they would enjoy being misted! Some otehr ways to achieve higher humidity levels are to place your plant on a pebble tray filled with water, or to place it near other water-loving plants such as pothos, philodendron, or ferns.

Are Pilea peperomioides easy to take care of?

Pilea plants are easy to take care of as long as you remember that they act more like a succulent than a tropical plant. Give it lots of bright indirect light and make sure that it has a chance to dry in between watering. The most common killer of this houseplant is by overwatering.

Is a Pilea a Peperomia?

No. The pilea actually comes from the Pilea genus. This is unlike the peperomia that comes from the Piperaceae genus (or the pepper family). The pilea peperomioides originates from southern China and has distinct differences from the peperomias that we also know and love.

What does it mean when your Pilea leaves curl?

Pilea leaves are normally flat, coin-shaped leaves protruding from a central stem. If your leaves are curling inward (like an umbrella), then this is a sign that it is getting too much light. But if your leaves are curling outward (like a cup), then this is a sign that your plant is getting too much water. Pretty crazy, right?!

Can I put my Pilea outside?

You can place your pilea outdoors in the warmer months, however, be careful to shade your plant from any hot direct sunlight. This plant can deal with only a few hours of morning or evening direct sunlight, so make sure that if you move your plant outdoors, that it is placed in a shaded location, such as under a covered patio or porch.

Why do Pilea leaves turn yellow?

Pilea leaves can turn yellow because of a number of different factors. First, they can yellow if your plant is getting overwatered. These yellow leaves will be fat, filled with water, and will drop off your plant. Next, if your plant is underwatered, the leaves will yellow, but then turn a gray-brown as it shrivels up and ultimately falls off the plant. Then last, the leaves will turn yellow but maintain green markings within the leaves if your plant is lacking in nutrients. This would require you to start a fertilizer routine for your Pilea.

How to Choose the Best Pots for Succulents (+5 Faves)

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Have you been eyeing a new succulent lately? Or maybe you have a growing collection and just need a new pot? Whether you’re a beginner or a succulent expert, we all need to have one thing right in our succulent care. And that is… we need to choose the right pot!

So what are the best pots for succulents? Today I’m going to tell you exactly what works and what doesn’t work for succulent pots, as well as give you some recommendations of my personal faves. Then if you still have questions, check out my “Frequently Asked Questions” section at the bottom of the page. Or just scroll down to see my top 5 best succulent pots!

Ready?! 

Let’s dig in!

**Note: This post may contains affiliate links, which helps support this website, at no extra cost to you!**

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What Makes the Best Pots?

There are three keys that you need to look for in the right container. The perfect succulent pot would consider:

  • Drainage
  • Material
  • Size

Let’s address these things one at a time.

#1: Proper Drainage

Picture of various shapes and sizes of pots

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but let me stress this fact… succulent pots NEED drainage holes!!!!

Technically, you CAN keep succulents alive in pots without drainage holes by simply adding only small amounts of water at a time. I know, because I’ve done this. But speaking from experience, these succulents never thrive like the succulents that I have in my pots with good drainage. This is because when your pots have proper drainage, you can water your plant as much as you want at each watering and the excess water will simply drain out.

But with pots that have no drainage holes (such as the pretty glass containers they show on Pinterest), these pots will leave you to always be fighting your moisture levels, since one little extra watering could potentially kill your whole plant. Personally, I tend to under-water these succulents to avoid accidentally giving them too much water. But as a result, my succulent plants are never as healthy.

So long story short… get a pot with drainage holes! Just do it!

#2: Pot Material

I would argue that pot material is the least important thing out of the three keys for choosing the best pot for succulents. This is because pot material alone will not kill your succulents.

Terra Cotta/Ceramic Pots

A towering shot of pots next to a pile of dirt

Terracotta pots, or ceramic pots, are definitely the best choice for succulent pots. This is due to the fact that the clay can actually soak up some of the excess moisture, giving your plant a little extra buffer between wet and dry phases. Be careful in the winter, though, as wet ceramic pots (in cold temperatures) can take longer to dry out. This could potentially cause overwatering problems for people who tend to water too much in the winter.

So the best pot material for succulents is terra cotta pots, unless you tend to overwater your plants during the winter. 

Plastic Pots

A succulent in a white squareshaped pot

Plastic pots and plastic containers are also a fine choice for succulents as long as they have sufficient drainage, are heavy enough to not tip over, and are not left outdoors.

Some succulents grow more vertically and can become top heavy. Plastic pots are usually lighter and easily fall over in these situations. To fix this, use sand instead of perlite in your succulent soil mix. This will help to weigh down any tipsy pots!

Next, if you are keeping your succulent outdoors, I do not recommend using plastic pots. This is first because of their higher chances of falling over due to their low weight. Second, plastic pots have a tendency to heat up and dry out faster when exposed to high temperature than clay pots or concrete pots. And third, plastic pots can freeze and deteriorate quickly in very cold climates. This is why I only recommend plastic pots for indoor use.

Metal Pots

Various plants flowering in different colors of pink red and green in metal cans

Metal pots and metal containers usually have the same heat issue as plastic pots. For this reason, you should keep a metal pot indoors only. If you want to move your succulents outdoors, then a good choice would be a terracotta or concrete pot.

Concrete Pots

two succulents in concrete pots

Concrete pots are similar to clay pots in that they are both a breathable material. Concrete pots are particularly good in outdoor spaces where they will be durable and protective to your succulents. Just be sure to keep in mind that real concrete pots can be extremely heavy. This is good for areas that are prone to high winds (especially if you live within hurricane areas), since your concrete planters will be sure to protect your plants when the weather gets tough!

#3: Size of Pot

Pot size is, in my opinion, the MOST OVERLOOKED problem of succulent killers. Because if your pot is too big, your succulent will die!!! 

plants growing in various shaped and sized pots

This is more of a water problem than a size problem. If you have a large pot, then you will have lots of soil that will be wet. This soil will have water where the small plant roots can’t reach. This extra, unreachable water will cause too much moisture to sit for too long and will lead to root rot.

Even with proper drainage, you need to make sure that the walls of your pot are only an inch or two bigger than your succulents’ current pot (on all sides). This is why a lot of succulent planters tend to be shallow pots that can fit a few succulents together in an arrangement, but that are still shallow enough that the small roots can still reach the bottom of the pot.

Potting Multiple Succulents Together

variety of succulents in a singular pot

If you want to pot multiple succulents together in a succulent arrangement or succulent planter, then your best bet is to buy a large, shallow container. Then, make sure that it is stuffed full of succulents! This will help it have enough roots everywhere so you won’t have those pockets of soil that the roots can’t reach…

Pot Recommendations:

  • All-Around Favorite: D’vine Dev Terracotta Pots
  • Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value!): Brajtt Plant Pots
  • Best for a Group of Succulents: Kimisty 10 Inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl
  • Best for Hanging Succulents: Mkono 8 inch Ceramic Hanging Planter
  • Best for Large Succulents: Aveyas 6/8/10 inch Ceramic Planter Pot

#1: All-Around Favorite – Terracotta Pots by D’vine Dev

These pots are fantastic because they are not only terracotta pots, but they also have drainage holes, the perfect-fit saucer, a drainage net (to keep the soil from coming out), and a “scratch pad” to put under your pot. This ensures that your pot has great drainage, but also that it keeps your surfaces dry and scratch-free! 

These guys have really thought of everything that an indoor succulent grower needs out of a pot. And that’s why it’s my all-around favorite set of succulent pots!

Plants in various models of the terracotta pots by d'vine dev

#2: Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value) – Brajtt Succulent Pots

These white, modern pots are perfect for your shorter succulents that don’t have deep root systems. I love that each pot has a small drainage hole, and they come with a functional, stylish bamboo tray to catch any excess water before it stains your window ledge.

And to get 8 pots for only $14.99 (at the time of writing this post)… that’s an AMAZING deal!!!

12 different example plants potted in the brajtt succulent pots

#3: Best for a Group of Succulents – Kimisty 10 inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl

This planter dish is perfect for succulent arrangements or succulent gardens! It is a glazed ceramic pot with a drainage hole and a plug (to keep your surfaces clean!). It also has a gorgeous, airy stand and white decorative rocks to make your succulent garden go from amateur to professional!

I especially love the size of this planter dish, since most are only about 6” long. With this dish coming in at a solid 10” diameter, (choose the “large” size), it fits a lot of succulents!

various forms of succulents all potted in a singular kimisty 10 in round succulent planter bowl

#4: Best for Hanging Succulents – Mkono 8 Inch Ceramic Hanging Planter

I searched far and wide for the perfect hanging succulent planters, and this is the one that I finally discovered!

It is a sturdy glazed ceramic pot that comes with a removable drainage plug for excess water. It also comes with a rope and pre-drilled holes, so all you need now is a strong hook! This hanging pot is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

A picture example of a mkono 8 inch ceramic hanging planter

#5: Best For Large Succulents – Aveyas 6/8/10 Inch Ceramic Planter Pot

This sleek, modern pot is perfect for larger succulents! It comes with both a drainage plug and a saucer so you can really control the pot’s drain holes and protect your furniture. This pot also comes with a matching pot stand, a drainage net, and planter filler to add even more drainage to the bottom of your pot!

Your large succulents are definitely going to enjoy being in one of these!

various size colors and glaze of the aveyas 6 8 10 inch ceramic planter pot

Those are my best pots for succulents! If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions below, or join my plant community on Facebook, Houseplants for Plant Killers!

Then if you’re looking for your next step in your succulent journey, download my free resource, the Succulent Care Guide!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do succulents need deep pots?

Larger succulents need deep pots, but small succulents would die in deep pots. The trick is to plant your succulent in a pot that is only an inch or two deeper than its current pot. This way, the root system will be able to reach the water all the way at the bottom of your pot.

Do succulents grow better in pots?

Most plants grow better when planted in the ground. However, if your environment isn’t hot and dry, then your succulents would actually prefer to be in a pot, where they will have better drainage and can be brought indoors when it gets cold or damp.

Can succulents stay in small pots?

Some small succulent varieties will stay perfectly happy in their small pots. However, some larger succulents will grow to where they don’t have enough room and will eventually need to be repotted into larger pots. This all depends on your type of succulent and its mature size and growth habit.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Yes. If your succulents are in a wide pot, they do better if they are crowded. This lessens the possibility of your pot having drainage issues. It also makes the most beautiful succulent arrangements. So feel free to pack them in!

Do you put succulents in plastic pots?

Yes, you can. Just make sure that your pot still has good drainage. Don’t use plastic pots for outdoor succulents, though, as these tend to heat up, dry out, and fall over more than ceramic pots. For indoor use, however, plastic pots will be just fine.

What is the easiest succulent to grow?

There are a number of succulents that are easier to grow than others. These include haworthias, echeverias, and sedums. For a complete list, check out my post 12 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors.

How often should you water a succulent?

Generally, you should water your succulents once the soil has become dry, but before it begins to pull away from the sides of your pot. This is usually between every five to seven days, depending on the amount of sunlight, temperature, and season. Check out my post “How Often Should I Water my Succulent” for more details.

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The Ultimate Guide to Pothos Plant Care [+Free Care Pages!]

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Picture of a pothos plant vine with the caption how to care for your pothos vine

Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a fantastic plant for anyone wanting a little more green in their home… It is one of the easiest tropical plants to grow and I recommend it to everyone. Especially to those who think that they can’t grow anything. Pothos is also listed as one of NASA’s top list of plants that clean the air! And if that isn’t enough, here are also some awesome tips to help you with your pothos plant care. Enjoy!

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Pothos Vine Care: Light Requirements

There are many different types of Pothos, or devil’s ivy, that are sold in garden centers today. The most common ones are:

  • Golden Pothos (green with a yellow pattern)
  • Marble Queen Pothos (green with a white pattern)
  • Jade Pothos (simply, but elegantly green)
  • N’Joy (a variegated white and green leaf)
  • Pearls and Jade (similar to N’Joy but usually has more white along the outside edges)
  • Neon Pothos (a fun, bright green variety)
  • Cebu blue (an Epipremnum pinnatum, with long, blue-green leaves)

As it goes, the brighter the leaf, the more bright indirect light it needs. The darker leaves can withstand lower light levels, but if you want larger leaves, then give it more light!

For example, Neon would like the brightest light, then Marble Queen, Golden, and finally Jade doesn’t do well in too bright light. However, all Pothos varieties can still grow and do well in low light conditions. They will just eventually lose their colors and all start to look like the normal Jade Pothos when in low light conditions. This is totally fine, but if you are absolutely devastated that the colors are leaving, then just move it to a brighter location.

One thing to remember with lighting, though, is that Pothos does not like to be in direct sunlight! This will cause the leaves to start looking dull and they may even turn a pale-yellow color. This is a sign of a “plant sunburn” from too much light. So adjust accordingly. If your pothos is losing its variegation and colors, then this is a sign of too little light. However, if your plant is turning a pale yellow, too much light. Simple, right?!

overhead picture of a pothos vine of various shades of cream and green

Pothos Vine Care: Water Requirements

As for watering, pothos plants can be easier than most indoor plants, but there are a few points to consider. This is because pothos can do well growing in a pot with soil, or can grow in straight water! But if your plant has been living in soil, you don’t want to put it in straight water and vice versa. These plants adapt very well so if it’s in soil, then only water when the top inch of soil has dried. Too much water and they will start to rot. But if it’s in water, then keep it in water and just make sure that the water is changed out every two weeks.

Pothos plants can adjust from water to soil, but they need to be well-watered during this transition.

If your leaves are a bright yellow color, then your plant is too dry. You can let the leaves get a little wilted before watering, but if they curl or turn yellow, then you’ve waited too long. On the flip side, if your plant’s new and older growth turns black, then this is a sign that it is either being over-watered, or that the air temperature is too low. (They don’t like being in air colder than about 50° F.)

a picture of a pothos propagation

Pothos Vine Care: Fertilizer & Pot Choice

Remember that Pothos in soil like to get a bit root-bound, so don’t re-pot it until the roots have filled out the container. They can also be fertilized once every two to three months during the summer. Only be careful because too much fertilizer (large amounts every week) can cause stunted growth. Personally, I feel that Pothos generally grows fast enough and doesn’t need any additional fertilizer, but it is really up to you. If you want a plant with huge, 2 foot leaves, then it’ll need fertilizer and plenty of light.

Also, make sure that your pot has at least one good drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. This is recommended for all houseplants as excess water can pool at the bottom of your pot, causing root rot, which is one of the few ways this plant could potentially die. If you tend to have problems with knowing when to water your pothos, I would recommend using a self-watering pot.

Quick story with this self-watering pot… One day last year I came home with two 3″ pothos (a golden and a marble queen). I placed them both in my office, and loved them so much! But a few weeks after purchasing, I received a few self-watering pots in the mail. So, my golden pothos ended up getting placed in a self-watering pot directly underneath my plant light, while my marble queen was left in her 6″ pot near the light, but not directly under it…

Fast forward about three months, and my golden pothos was DOUBLE the size of my marble queen!

This just shows how much a plant light and a self-watering pot can do to make your plant LOVE YOU!!!

*Update: Since this experiment, I have switched my marble queen to a self-watering pot, and she is starting to grow like crazy too, even though it’s winter time (aka NOT the typical growing season!)*

a pothos plant showing various shades of green and cream

Pothos Vine Care: Pruning Tips

A lot of people also have a hard time keeping their Pothos from becoming too long and thin. We want a bushy-looking, full trailing vine. This only comes with regular trimming. Simply cut off the ends of the vines every month or so. You can either re-pot them in a light potting mix, such as vermiculite, or simply grow them in a glass of water. This will not only make your plant look healthy and vibrant, but will also give you plenty more little Pothos plants to add into your home!

Pothos Vine Care: Propagation

Pothos vines are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate due to its aerial roots and fast growth rate. For information on how to propagate your pothos, (and how to get PERFECT stem cuttings…) check out my post on Pothos Propagation!

Be aware: This plant is toxic to pets and children who may ingest large quantities of plant material. It isn’t fatal, but it may cause irritation and vomiting. It may also cause a skin rash for some people who have very highly sensitive skin. Check out my list of plants that are toxic to pets, as well as my list of non-toxic houseplants!

Well there are my tips! I hope you decide to pick up one of these little guys, or root out your own cutting! They are seriously one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and are great for those who want a low-maintenance, low-light option!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do Pothos Plants Need a lot of Sunlight?

Yes and no. If you are okay with your leaves losing their yellow or white markings, then they will be just fine in low-light conditions. However, if you want your pothos to grow faster, and keep its beautiful colorings, then it will need enough light to keep it happy. This means lots of bright, indirect sunlight, as hot, direct sunlight can potentially burn your pothos vines.

How do you make Pothos Happy?

The easiest way to make a pothos happy is to stick it in a self-watering pot in an east- or west-facing window. They also love bright bathrooms where they can enjoy high humidity levels. (Just make sure there isn’t too much sun in the hot afternoons!)

Why are Pothos Leaves turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves are usually a sign of either too little water, or too little sunlight. This is the plant’s way of coping with an unfavorable environment. To fix this, simply increase your watering (to have moist soil that only slightly dries out between watering). You can also move it to a location with more light, or consider bringing in additional lighting, such as fluorescent lighting or LED lights that are made for indoor plants.

Do Pothos like to be Watered?

Yes, pothos like to be watered. But make sure that you have good drainage in your pot so that any excess water can flow out of your pot. Then let the soil lightly dry out in between watering. This means that you will naturally water less in the winter months and more in the summer months. If you aren’t sure about watering, grab a Soil Water Meter!

Should I mist my Pothos?

Misting a pothos is generally unnecessary. However, in the winter months, indoor air can be dry and your plant can become dusty. These dry, dusty conditions can attract spider mites. If you see these insects, then definitely start misting (as well as treating with an insecticidal soap). This is because spider mites DO NOT like to be wet!

How do you tell if Pothos is Overwatered?

First, your soil will be wet. If you can press the top of the soil, and water appears, then there is too much water! Next, your pothos will be wilted, and there can possibly be brown spots on the leaves or stems that feel mushy to the touch. Your plant will also feel somewhat fat because the leaves are filled with water. Make sure your pot has drainage holes, and that your soil feels slightly dry to the touch every 5 days or so.

How do you Train a Pothos to Climb?

Pothos vines have aerial roots that will only grow into moist, natural materials. This is something like a moss pole, or in nature, a tree trunk. To get a pothos to climb indoors, however, simply use plant ties, command hooks, or even pieces of string to train your pothos up any vertical support.

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The 31 Best Indoor Houseplants of 2023

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Houseplants. The trend that steadily rose with NASA’s clean air study, and has now led us to green walls, urban jungles, and a race for IKEA’s glass cabinets! But whether you’re new to the plant scene, or you’ve been here a while, it’s great to see what kinds of indoor plants are available, trending, and super hot right now. Whether you’re a green thumb or not, you’re sure to find a plant that’s right for you!

So here’s a list of the 31 BEST houseplants of 2023!

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  1. Scientific Name: Sansevieria trifasciata

Common Name: Snake Plant

Starting off strong for the year is the snake plant! Now, there is a reason why you’ve seen this guy everywhere. He comes in lots of different colors, but more importantly, he comes in lots of different SIZES! This means that he can jazz up a living room with his tall, compact vertical lines, or he can sit, totally happy in a small corner of your desk. Snake plants are also extremely low maintenance, hard to kill, drought-tolerant, and do well in low light. I mean, you really can’t ask for more. He’s definitely a teacher’s pet! Here’s all you need to know for Snake Plant Care!

A close up picture of a snake plant showing it's varying leaf designs and color

2. Scientific Name: Aloe vera

Common Name: Aloe vera

This plant has always been a popular plant, but it has seen a huge rise in the interior space. This is in part from the popularity of succulents (Aloe vera plants are a relatively easy succulent to grow indoors). But its popularity has also recently stemmed from the essential oils and home remedies movement. Oh, and as a bonus, it also cleans your air. I mean, how more natural can you get?! This plant literally has healing benefits! And for a bonus, here’s my post on how to care for one of these guys – Aloe Plant Care!

An aloe verya plant used to decorate a window seal

3. Scientific Name: Rhaphidophora tetrasperma

Common Name: Mini Monstera

This “Mini Monstera” isn’t actually part of the Monstera family. Instead, this little guy is an “adopted” monstera due to its deeply veined leaves. But this origin story isn’t why people are raving about this plant… instead, it’s because this plant achieves a very similar look of the monstera, without the size. Which is huge!!! (Because it’s so small!!!) This means that people who don’t have a lot of space can now enjoy this tropical look as well!

A Mini Monstera decoratively placed on a small table

4. Scientific Name: Zamioculcas zamiifolia

Common Name: ZZ Plant

The ZZ plant is the perfect plant for busy, beginner houseplant owners. This low-fuss personality isn’t the main reason why it rose in popularity, though. The biggest selling point of the ZZ plant is its ability to thrive in low light! So if you have a dark corner that most plants don’t like, then consider this guy for the job! Another added perk… it’s also a semi-succulent. So it doesn’t mind the neglect… it actually prefers to dry out a bit!

A picture of a ZZ plant in a white pot on a small table

5. Scientific Name: Platycerium spp.

Common Name: Staghorn Fern

One plant that has risen in popularity pretty fast is the staghorn fern! This is in part because we stopped looking at houseplants as something you put in a pot on the windowsill. No, this fern is a living piece of art, perfect for any focal wall! So if you’re low on space, but still want to green things up, then think vertical with this stunning fern.

A wall mounted staghorn fern

6. Scientific Name: Ficus lyrata

Common Name: Fiddle Leaf Fig

It’s no wonder that the fiddle leaf fig is still one of our most-used houseplants. It seems every modern interior design has at least one of these included. We, in turn, are trained to see this indoor tree as a symbol of style and design. And you know what? I’m okay with that. This big guy deserves it! I do predict, though, that this ficus might see a bit of a drop in popularity. That’s because once everyone has one (or several), then stores will stop being able to sell them. Which less demand = seeing fewer in stores. So make sure to stock up now! For information on how to keep your fiddle leaf alive, check out my post, Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Care!

A Fiddle Leaf Fig decoratively placed in a woven basket

7. Scientific Name: Tillandsia, sp.

Common Name: Air Plants

I’m going to admit… the majority of air plants themselves aren’t the most beautiful plant ever. I mean, when was the last time you saw one of these lying on a shelf? No, what makes these plants special is the choice of holder you place it in. By personally selecting a holder, you have the chance to add a personal 3-D sculpture to your space that is a majestic blend of inorganic and living elements. And to top it all off, you won’t have to sacrifice much living space to do it either! Here’s How to Care for Air Plants, as well as a bonus post I created on How to Water Air Plants… the right way!

Air plants with their ombre shades of green to pink

8. Scientific Name: Epipremnum aureum ‘Golden’

Common Name: Golden Pothos

The Golden Pothos has been a popular houseplant for many years and I don’t think it’s going to go down in popularity any time soon. This is because this GORGEOUS vine is also good at boosting indoor oxygen levels, can do well in low light, and can tolerate a good amount of inconsistent moisture! So if you’re looking for an amazing, easy-to-grow indoor plant, then grab one of these! And, here’s everything you need to know to care for this plant in my post Pothos Vine Care… which includes free printable care pages!

A close shot of a Golden Pothos leaf and its varying shades of cream and green

9. Scientific Name: Epipremnum aureum ‘Marble Queen’

Common Name: Marble Queen Pothos

The Marble Queen pothos used to be overshadowed by its “Golden” big brother. But not anymore! With some modern design trends focusing on clean, white lines, (or lighter shades of just about everything), this white variety of pothos has re-emerged in a big way! Just remember, though, that it needs plenty of bright, indirect light in order to keep its white variegation! And if you missed it in the previous clip, here’s everything you need to know about Pothos Vine Care!

A close up picture of Marble Queen Pothos and it's cream and green leaf patterns

10. Scientific Name: Euphorbia trigona

Common Name: Royal Red Cathedral Cactus

The Royal Red Cathedral Cactus definitely lives up to its elegant name! This cactus blends deep purples and reds, giving it a soft, almost tropical look that can be successfully paired with desert plants, as well as tropicals! Either way, this cactus is definitely on my wishlist this year!

A Royal Red Cathedral Cactus in a brown pot

11. Scientific Name: Varies

Common Name: Ferns (Multiple species)

Aside from the Staghorn fern, I thought it was important to mention ferns as a general category. That’s because we’ve seen a HUGE increase in both popularity, as well as the number of different species that are widely available today. Some common ones are the Boston fern, Kimberly Queen, Maidenhair, Rabbit’s Foot, and Kangaroo Paw… just to name a few! If you have high humidity levels, then you should definitely add one of these ferns to your space!

A picture of a boston fern in a green pot

Common Name: Jade Plant

Jade plants have always been popular houseplants, but with the rise of succulents, jade plants are now even more common in our homes. This is as plant parents have wanted plants that require less watering. But it has also come as the Portulacara “jade” plants have become better known. This new type of jade plant has brought more colors and shapes to the previously boring, green Crassula variety. Because who doesn’t want a “Rainbow Jade”?!

A close up pictue of a jade plant and its varying color leaves ranging from green yellow and red

13. Scientific Name: Beaucarnea recurvata

   Common Name: Ponytail Palm

This lesser-known palm tree has become one of the favorites of the bohemian decorating style. With long, curvy leaves that know how to make a statement, the ponytail palm is definitely the free spirit of the family! Just make sure that if you’re displaying this plant in your boho space, that you pair it with an equally fab and trend-setting pot. Do this, and you’ll be sure to have tons of envious friends! (Oh, and be sure to keep your cat away! They love this edible palm!)

A Ponytail Palm being displayed in a black pot

14. Scientific Name: Ficus elastica

Common Name: Rubber Tree

Rubber trees are one of those plants that I can see go either way for popularity. I believe it’s because most people don’t trim their trees, leaving it looking like a tall, spindly stalk of leaves. But if done right, (with pruning and turning), then this guy can actually be a stunning houseplant! Then, add in its super easy care routine to its gorgeous leaf colors, and I could see this guy taking off! Check out how to easily keep it alive in my post, Rubber Tree Plant Care!

A rubber tree plant white pot

15. Scientific Name: Philodendron xanadu

Common Name: Xanadu Philodendron

You know, I’m not really sure why the Xanadu philodendron has become so hugely popular lately. It’s similar to the re-emergence of high-waisted jeans… I just don’t get it. But if you’re a fan of the crinkled leaves, then by all means, go for it! Although it’s not my favorite, I can’t argue with its ability to quickly make any space feel like a chic, urban jungle!

A close up picture xanadu philodendron with its unique leaf ridges

16. Scientific Name: Saintpaulia ionantha

Common Name: African Violets

African violets have been seen everywhere lately, but I’m not sure if it’s the actual appearance of this plant that has caused the popularity, or if it’s just widely sold as one of the few flowering houseplants. Either way, the biggest thing to watch out for with African violets is that you NEED to purchase a healthy plant. If there are any signs of mold or a mushy stem or leaves, then don’t buy it. These plants aren’t always the easiest to keep alive, especially if you buy a sick plant to begin with. But if you do manage to keep this guy alive, then enjoy your flowers for years to come! Here’s exactly how to care for it… African Violet Plant Care!

Flowering african violets in a pot

17. Scientific Name: Aglaonema sp.

Common Name: Chinese Evergreen

Chinese evergreens are one of my favorite houseplants to grow, and it’s not surprising that it’s made the list of the best houseplants! This is because Chinese evergreens come in all different leaf patterns and colors like green, white, red, and even pink! Needless to say, if you want to add a splash of color to your interiors, then this easy, low-maintenance plant is the one to choose!

An overhead picture of a chinese evergreen and its leaf design of various shades of pink and green

18. Scientific Name: Zamioculcas zamiifolia

Common Name: Raven ZZ Plant

The Raven ZZ is the newly-introduced black-leaf variety of the regular ZZ plant. Not only is it a beautifully dark shade, but it’s also a bit more compact and shorter than its also a bit more compact and shorter than its green brother. This, combined with its low light and little water requirements makes it perfect for those small desks or shelves that just need a little extra something!

An overhead picture of a raven zz plant and its leaf design and structure

19. Scientific Name: Spathiphyllum

Common Name: Peace Lily

This plant is extremely popular, and has always been extremely popular. This is because its large, dense leaves can really green up a space fast! And, this plant is very forgiving if you forget to water for a bit. If you see it start to droop, add water, and watch as it springs back to life in no time!

A decorative picture of a peace lily in a pot by a window

20. Scientific Name: Tradescantia albiflora

Common Name: Tradescantia Nanouk

Tradescantias were fading in most indoor plant scenes. Until the Nanouk came along. This pink and cream variety has caused a re-birth for the “Wandering Jew” plant. Now you can see both the pink and purple varieties draping down their hanging baskets along several storefronts. Though, with its difficulty in staying alive, we’ll see if this picky houseplant will maintain its current fame. *Hint: If you have one, give it tons of bright, indirect light, and let it dry out between watering. Don’t keep it too wet, and it will thank you!!!*

Tradescantia nanouk with a purple and green variety of leaves

21. Scientific Name: Hedera helix

Common Name: English Ivy

English Ivy has been a popular houseplant for years! That’s because it’s relatively easy to grow, it does well in low light, and it looks good in hanging baskets, up moss poles, or pretty much anywhere else! Then throw in the several variegated varieties that have been coming out, and there’s just no way to beat this classic houseplant!

A decorative english lily in a pot with its leaves overflowing through the top

22. Scientific Name: Dracaena marginata

Common Name: Madagascar Dragon Tree

The Madagascar Dragon Tree is another classic houseplant that is still found in many homes. However, I’m not sure if this one will continue in popularity for too much longer. It can sometimes be difficult to water (as it is easily over-watered). This is making it be quickly being upstaged by its relatives, the corn plant, the Janet Craig Dracaena, and the Warneckii. Only time will tell if one of these dracaenas will become like the Fiddle Leaf Fig of the Ficus family…

A madagascar dragon tree in a pot next to two empty pots

23. Scientific Name: Haworthia, spp.

Common Name: Transparent Haworthia

Another houseplant that has been popular lately is the Transparent Haworthia, also called Windows Haworthia, or simply just Haworthia. Many social media images have shown off these translucent succulent leaves, causing the succulent community to go green with desire! And, although these leaves aren’t always as see-through in person, these Haworthias are still a stunning piece of nature that every plant lover can show off with pride! And remember, this little guy doesn’t NEED the bright light that it’s brother, the zebra plant loves. The windows haworthia can settle for only morning or evening sunlight. Its leaves are made to optimize light after all!

Close up side picture of a transparent haworthia with great detail of its see through leaf structure

24. Scientific Name: Philodendron ‘Birkin’

Common Name: Philodendron Birkin

Philodendron covers a very large group of houseplants, but the Birkin variety has become extremely popular the last few years. This is in part because it has started to be widely sold throughout the United States as part of the Costa Farms Tropicals collection. But availability isn’t the only reason why people bought this plant. It is also because this plant’s beautiful striped leaves has everyone falling in love at first sight!

A picture of the stems and leaves of a philodendron birkin

25. Scientific Name: Maranta spp.

Common Name: Prayer Plant

Prayer plants have also seen a resurgence in popularity over the past couple of years. The Kerchoveana Minima in particular can be found in most garden centers as it’s large leaves and dark spots make it look stunning and full, even in a small 3 inch pot!

A picture of stems and leaves of the prayer plant with its varying shades of green

26. Scientific Name: Monstera Deliciosa var.

Common Name: Variegated Monstera

There are several different types of variegated Monstera plants, but regardless of the type of variegation, they are all highly sought after… (almost comparable to toilet paper at the start of the COVID lockdown!) Fortunately, growers have caught on to this fad and have been producing even more of these gorgeous monsteras. Which means that you can now find some varieties for just a couple hundred dollars… (talk about the rare diamonds of the houseplant world!!!)

a picture of a variegated monstera of varying colors of green and cream potted in a woven basket

27. Scientific Name: Begonia spp.

Common Name: Begonia

While Begonias aren’t new to the popular plant scene, begonias as houseplants has really been coming back hot! Ranging in colors from reds to purples to whites (and don’t get me started on the spotted begonias!), these leaves look like they belong on a set from The Mandalorian! So if you’re looking for something unique, then definitely check out this year’s begonias!

A picture of flowering begonia and its multicolored leavves of shades of pink cream and brown

28. Scientific Name: Calathea spp.

Common Name: Peacock plant

Calathea plants encompass many different varieties and styles that are often called peacock plants, prayer plants, and even rattlesnake plants. But it’s the beautiful markings on these leaves that people just can’t resist! Calathea can be difficult to grow (since it requires lots of humidity) but if you have the right conditions, this plant will be a show-stopper!

A peacock plant with leaves varying from green to purple in a gray pot

29. Scientific Name: Monstera adansonii

Common Name: Swiss Cheese Vine

This Monstera is the vine version of the Monstera deliciosa. The Swiss Cheese vine has risen in popularity as it has a similar look to the Swiss Cheese plant, but it has smaller leaves and an upright or hanging form that is a much better option if you don’t have the space for it’s bigger brother. Talk about houseplants that can fit into small spaces!

swiss cheese plant propagation picture

30. Scientific Name: Stromanthe sanguinea 

Common Name: Tricolor Stromanthe

This is another houseplant that plant lovers just have to add to their collection! With each leaf a different pattern of creams, pinks, and greens, it’s hard to believe that this plant is real! But just be careful, because this little girl is definitely a diva… so I would only recommend it to people who are at least at an intermediate level in houseplant care. For care instructions for this plant, check out this post on Stromanthe Plant Care.

a tricolor stromanthe with special attention to its leaf colors of green cream and pink

31. Scientific Name: Cordyline spp.

Common Name: Ti Plant

Ti plants are usually grown outdoors, but they have been recently building in popularity as indoor plants. This is because of their bright colors and the tropical vibes they bring to any space. Just keep them in a sunny window and give them plenty of water (in a well-draining pot of course), and these leaves will stay bright and colorful. So if you want some beachy vibes, then ditch the driftwood, and bring your space to life with a few Ti plants!

an overhead picture of a Ti plant and its leaves varying colors of pink rims and deep purple leaves

This is it for my list of the 31 best indoor houseplants of 2022! If you liked this post, then feel free to share it to your favorite social media platform, or join the Facebook group Houseplants for Plant Killers to get personalized plant care tips and help! Then, for more houseplant ideas, check out my post, 10 Hard-to-Kill Houseplants, to find a list of plants that are perfect for any beginner houseplant parents!

Happy Digging!

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A decorative picture of a plant with the title 31 best houseplants of the year and care info

The 5 Signs your Plants Need Filtered Water

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Do you REALLY need filtered water for your plants? I know there is a huge controversy about benefits vs costs, but after doing some research (… a LOT of research…), I’ve found that yes, effects can be small. But small things add up. 

A favorite podcaster of mine always stresses this when he points out that if you had a penny that doubled every day for only 30 days, by the end of the month you would have over 5 MILLION dollars! Just from a single penny! (Rob Dial, The Mindset Mentor)

So when I think about watering my plants, I think about how many drops I am giving them every day, every week, every year. It really adds up! And that’s why I use filtered water.

But the decision is ultimately up to you. I’m just here to point out the 5 signs that your plants might need filtered water. 

*Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me keep providing this information to all of you. But, I only promote products that I have personally tried and love!*

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Sign #1 – Brown leaf tips, or brown, dying spots

Brown leaf tips and brown, dying (necrotic) spots can be caused by a few different factors, but they have both been linked to problems with water contamination. Now, this isn’t saying that your tap water is dangerous to drink… instead, it’s just dangerous to some of your more sensitive plants.

These two contaminants are chlorine, a chemical used to kill harmful bacteria in water, and flouride, a chemical that is actually added to water as it helps people have healthier teeth.

An excess of chlorine is what contributes to brown leaf tips in sensitive plants. These plants include: palms, spider plants, dracaena, azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc.

An excess of fluoride, however, causes necrotic spots along leaf edges. These fluoride-sensitive plants include those listed above as well as ti plants, prayer plants, and calatheas.

So if your plants are showing either of these symptoms, then it’s a sign you need filtered water.

Browning leaf tips and dying necrotic spots on plant leaves

Sign #2 – It’s hot outside

You might not know this, but the concentration of chemicals in your drinking water will actually change with the weather. This is because most water treatment plants are outdoors, and the variation in temperatures can cause different levels of bacterial and microbial growth.

It has been seen that as it gets hotter, water treatment plants need to use more chlorine than usual to kill these microbes. So if it’s getting hot outside, then not only will your plants need more water, but they will also have a higher chance of absorbing too much chlorine.

https://medium.com/@HomeWaterPros/chlorine-levels-in-drinking-water-reach-their-peak-during-the-end-of-summer-77e4f8b72358

a picture of a chart containing the cvolatile contaminants found in tap water

Sign #3 – Your Soil is Turning White

A common question that a lot of people ask me is… “What is that white stuff on my soil? And how do I get rid of it?” The short answer is, this is a mineral build-up, and you need to leach it from the soil.

The problem with this short answer, though, is that this mineral build-up is most commonly caused by sodium carbonate… a chemical used to “soften” water (which usually makes it taste better when we drink it). 

These salts, while they might not be too harmful to us, can eventually lead to some major problems for our plants, especially if the soil is never replaced or leached. (After all, there’s a reason why the Salt Flats don’t have a lot of vegetation y’all!)

So, I recommend that people leach out their pots… (running a bunch of water through the soil to flush out any harmful chemicals or built-up minerals). This will be harder for those of you with garden plants, but even with indoor plants, it can take a lot of time and a warm location where the soil can dry.

The one problem, though, is how useful is leaching if you’re using the same water that contains the same amounts of sodium as before? So you see how it really is a short-term solution that doesn’t change the root of the problem.

An overhead shot of a plant with soil that is starting to turn white

Sign #4 – Your Plant isn’t Growing as Big

This sign is mainly for outdoor and garden plants, but it can also apply to indoor plants.

To dive into the “why” of this sign, we need to remember that water treatment plants have the goal to kill microbes that are living in our water. In fact, it is the water treatment plants that help keep us safe from cholera, E. coli, and Giardia. So they add chlorine, trihalomethanes (TTHM), and haloacetic acids (HAA5) to our water to kill any living microbes.

The problem with this, though, is that it kills beneficial microbes as well.

These beneficial microbes (like mycorrhizae) help break down nutrients in the soil so they can be absorbed by the plant roots. This is one reason why most quality fertilizers contain beneficial microbes.

So if your plants aren’t growing as fast, it could be because the chemicals in your water are killing these beneficial microbes, leaving your plants on their own.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/chlorine-toxicity

a Picture of someone holding a plant in a woven pot

Sign #5 – You’re Not on Well Water

Well water can actually be better for plants than city water because it usually has fewer disinfecting chemicals, less or no fluoride, and higher mineral (a.k.a. nutrient) concentrations. But if you’re on “city” water, then you might like it more, but your plants will get the short end of the stick!

A picture of water coming out of a tree

Those are the 5 signs that your plants need filtered water.

And if you’re now thinking you need a filter, I personally use and love this water filter system from GrowMax Water. I chose this one because I can use it for my indoor plants all winter (when it’s cold outside!), and then I can bring it outdoors in the summer to use for my garden!

It’s super light and connects to both under my sink, and onto my spigot! I just love this little guy!

filter option if your plants need filtered water

If you have any more plant-related questions, feel free to comment below or shoot me an email. You can also join my Facebook group, “Houseplants for Plant Killers” to receive personalized help and plant tips whenever you need!

Happy Digging!

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Are African Violet Houseplants Safe for Cats?

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Being a cat owner myself, I know that it’s extremely important to keep your pets safe. But does that mean you have to sacrifice your plant collection? Nope! Even if your feline friend likes to try a few bites every now and again, there are quite a few popular houseplants that are non-toxic and safe for cats!

But here’s the real reason why you’re reading my post…

You want to know… Are African Violets safe for my cat?

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Scientific Name: Saintpaulia 

Common Name: African Violet

Toxicity Level: Non-Toxic

According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (aka the ASPCA), African Violets are non-toxic. They are specifically labelled as safe for cats, dogs, and even horses!

This means that this plant will not cause any major problems if your cat decides to try a few bites. 

Good news, right?!

But before you go, here are a few ESSENTIAL tips that all cat owners need to know to keep their pets safe…

A close up picture of a flowering african violet

There’s Still a Chance for Poisoning…

While African Violets aren’t poisonous plants, there are still a few ways your curious cats can get into trouble. 

This is if you, or the person you bought your plant from (usually a commercial greenhouse), have been using strong fertilizers or a systemic insecticide on your plant.

A picture of someone pouring systemic insecticide

Strong fertilizers (different from what you buy at your local garden center) have the possibility of causing gastrointestinal issues. However, this is only if your pet has been ingesting large amounts of the plant over a long period of time. If your plant is relatively new, or you plan on busting out the super, high-intense, extra-strength, commercial-grade fertilizers, then you should probably keep your plant away from your cat.

A more harmful substance is a systemic insecticide. These are insecticides that are absorbed by the plant (usually through the root system), so that when an insect eats any part of the plant, it will die.

Now, your cat probably won’t die due to the fact that he or she won’t be eating their entire body weight’s worth of poisonous leaves like the insects do, but this still isn’t good for your pet and can cause MAJOR harm… (anyone else thinking of Snow White and the Poisoned Apple?!?!)

Snow Whites evil queen dressed as old hag looking around questioningly

Symptoms of Poisoning

Cats Protection lists the following as symptoms of poisoning:

  • Vomiting
  • Excess Salivation
  • Diarrhea
  • Body Spasms/Twitching
  • Difficulty Breathing
  • Shock
  • Inflammation of the Skin
  • Sudden Changes in Eating, Drinking, or Urination
  • Sudden Depression or Coma

If your cat is experiencing any of these symptoms, then immediately call either your veterinarian, or the pet poison helpline at 1-888-426-4435.

Pet Poison Helpline: 1-888-426-4435

When to Not Worry…

You shouldn’t worry if your cat has only ingested a small amount of your African Violet and is only showing signs of slight gastrointestinal discomfort (or stomach upset). This is normal when your little fur baby has eaten something that is new to them… (trust me… I used to get the same gut feeling when I ate sushi for the first time, haha!)

These signs of discomfort should be mild and should only last a short duration of time. If, however, symptoms persist, or if they get worse, then immediately seek help from your veterinarian or call the pet poison helpline.

A gray cat walking next to a potted african violets plant

Safe Houseplants for Pet Owners

That’s all you need to know about African Violets and your cats! If you’re looking for more indoor plants that will be safe for your cats, then check out my list of Non-Toxic Plants for Cats and Dogs!

And to be extra cautious, you should probably also check out my list of Poisonous Indoor Plants as well.

Here’s to keeping safe with your precious, (taste-testing) fur baby!

Happy Digging!

*Note: I am not a veterinarian, and hold no liability for any damage or loss of life that occurs. To be safe, I suggest you consult with a professional, such as your veterinarian.*

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A picture of african violets with the title what every cat owner needs to know about african violets
A picture of a cat next to african violets with the title safe or poisonous? What at owners should know about african violets

3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

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Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Repotted succulent

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

Please leave any additional comments or questions below and sign up for my email list to receive even more tips and tricks to help keep your houseplants alive!

Happy Digging!

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A picture ofa succulent and the title how to save succulents that have been overwatered

How to Stop Over Watering your Succulents

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I get it. You buy a succulent, you lovingly water it, and then three days later it has died… What went wrong?! Then you discover the ugly truth. You’ve been over watering your succulents! Don’t worry. We’ve all been there. But how exactly do you stop? And how do you keep your little guys alive?! Keep reading, cause I’ll show you exactly how to stop over watering your succulents!

There are a couple of different reasons why your succulent is being over watered. First, it could be because you are simply adding too much water to its pot.

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Reason #1: Using Too Much Water

To fix this, only add small amounts of water each time you are watering.

Sounds simple, right?!

Well, it can actually be super difficult if you’re using a regular watering can to water those tiny little pots.

This is why it’s BEST to water your succulents with one of these!

Someone watering various plants

These succulent watering bottles are designed to give you the ultimate control over how much your succulent is watered. It also has a small nozzle, which positions the water stream to exactly where you want it! No more wet succulent leaves, and no more wet plant shelves!

Reason #2: Not Enough Drainage

The next thing to consider with over watering succulents is how fast your water is draining out of its pot.

In a succulent’s native habitat, water will move quickly into, then out of a plant’s reach. This is done either through the water quickly sinking down through the sandy or rocky soil, or water will escape through evaporation due to the sun’s heat. Either way, the soil does not stay wet for long.

Which means… succulents are not accustomed to having their roots constantly wet. In fact, they’re used to having moderately dry roots.

Because of this, we need to allow the water in our own pots to move down and out of the soil.

To do this, we will need:

  1. Soil that drains well
  2. Pots that drain well

Well-Draining Soil

For well-draining soil, either amend regular soil with sand and perlite (at a rate of 1/3 soil, 1/3 sand, and 1/3 perlite), or consider purchasing a pre-mixed soil, such as this cactus and succulent soil!

Picture of Perfect Plants Succulent soil

Well-Draining Pots

To have well-draining pots, first make sure that your pot’s soil-to-root ratio is correct. (A.k.a., don’t use a large pot for a small succulent). This is extremely important!!!

If your succulent is small, use a small pot.

Also, look for shallow pots. Don’t purchase anything too deep.

Then, make sure that your pots have drainage holes!!!

I can’t stress this enough! Succulents NEED pots with drainage holes!

If you want to group your succulents together, get a pot that is specifically made for grouping succulents. These will be shallow, wide, and have drainage holes. Check out these pots for succulent groupings.

A picture of DeeCoo Succulent Pots

And for pot ideas, check out my post on Indoor Plant Pots. Just make sure you pick out pots that are proportionate to the size of your succulents!!!

So remember, add less water, and improve drainage of your soil and your pots! If you do all of these above steps, you will never over water your succulents again! Let me know if you have any more succulent-related questions in the comments below! And for more succulent tips, check out my post on Succulent Care, or my post, How Often should I Water my Succulent?!

Happy Digging!

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Common Problems with Christmas Cactus and How to Fix Them

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Isn’t it frustrating when your plant (that looked so great at the store!) comes home and slowly starts looking like it’s about to die?! If this is the story of you and your Christmas cactus, just know that it’s okay.

You are not the only person who has a hard time keeping this tropical cactus alive…

And today, I’m going to show you the five most common problems people run into with their Christmas cactus. Knowing these problems and implementing their solutions will turn your dying Christmas cactus back into its glorious cactus self again soon!

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Problem #1: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Limp & Droopy

Cause #1: There are two different reasons why your Christmas cactus’ leaves are limp and droopy. The first reason is if it is currently flowering. Producing flowers takes a lot of energy away from the plant and many people have said that their plants become droopy during and just after flowering.

Care: If this is you, then simply wait until your plant has finished flowering, then make sure to let it rest for a few weeks with no fertilizer and only little water. Only water it when the soil is dry to the touch. After these few weeks, you can then resume your care as normal.

Cause #2: The second reason for limp or droopy leaves is because of improper watering. This is also a cause for wilted or shriveled leaves. So if your plant’s leaves are limp and droopy, and it isn’t currently flowering, then improper watering is the cause.

Care: Refer to the next section for shriveled or wilted leaf care.

Christmas Cactus Limp Leaves
Image courtesy of Garden.org

Problem #2: Your Christmas Cactus’ Leaves are Shriveled or Wilted

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves will wilt and shrivel up when the leaves aren’t getting enough water due to improper watering. This can be from either over-watering or under-watering. Feel the soil several inches below the soil surface, or use a soil moisture meter to determine if your soil has been kept too wet or too dry.

Care #1: If your soil is too wet, then you will most likely have damaged roots. You should immediately re-pot your Christmas cactus into fresh soil that is only lightly moist. While re-potting, trim off any black or mushy roots and pour hydrogen peroxide over the root system. This will kill any remaining bacteria before you place it into fresh soil. Also, take stem cuttings at this time to propagate, following the directions in Christmas Cactus Propagation. This will ensure that even if your plants’ roots die, you will still have cuttings to re-grow your Christmas cactus.

Care #2: On the flip side, if your plant is too dry, then you will need to slowly increase the moisture levels over a few days. Slowly bring it from bone dry back to lightly moist. You will know you’ve been successful when your plant’s leaves perk back up! Just be sure that you don’t end up over-watering your plant at this time. Remember, let it barely dry out before you water it again.

Also note that if your plant’s soil is hard and difficult to press your fingers into, then you will need to re-pot your plant into fresh, well-draining soil, such as a cactus and succulent soil or a regular soil mixed with additional sand or perlite.

Shriveling Christmas Cactus leaves
Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #3: Your Plant’s Leaves are Pale or Red

Cause: Christmas cactus leaves begin to turn pale and then get a slight red tint if they are getting too much direct sunlight. The red tint can be pretty (and harmless in the right settings), but make sure that it isn’t getting burnt. Remember, these plants are tropical cacti, not desert cacti. So they are used to a very moist heat, not a dry heat like what you find in a home window. So if your leaves are turning a pale greenish-yellow color, or are excessively red, then it’s too much hot, direct sunlight.

Care: Move your Christmas cactus out of any direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight will be fine, but try to avoid any direct sunlight for at least a little while.

These plants can eventually become accustomed to higher light levels, but this would take a lot of acclimatizing. Instead, I would suggest you take the easier route and simply move it away from the hot sunlight.

Christmas Cactus leaves turning red
Image courtesy of houzz.com

Problem #4: You Christmas Cactus’ Stems are Falling Off

Cause: The reason why your plant’s stems are falling off is because of root- or stem rot at the base of the plant. This always happens as a result of over-watering.

Care: Follow the care instructions for over-watering under the “Wilted or Shriveled Leaves” section (Problem #2, Care #1). This will tell you exactly how to care for a plant that has been over-watered.

Christmas Cactus stems falling off
Image courtesy of reddit.com

Problem #5: Flower Buds Fall off Before they Fully Bloom

Cause: Christmas cactus flower are notorious for being overly-sensitive. The reasons why your buds fell off could be because of your plant getting too dry, staying too wet, or because it recently moved locations.

Care: When your plant is in bud, make sure to keep your watering schedule consistent. But, if something comes up (or you’ve just recently brought your plant home) and all of its buds fall off, sit tight.

Let it rest for a few weeks, keeping it a bit more dry than usual, and give it a chance to set new buds. Sometimes if it is healthy enough, a Christmas cactus is able to produce a second set of blooms. So don’t get frustrated! Your little plant might just need a bit more time!

Christmas cactus flower buds falling off before fully blooming
Image courtesy of gardeningknowhow.com

Those are the 5 most common Christmas cactus problems and how to fix them! Please let me know below if you have any questions or additional comments, and join my email list to get not only a special welcome gift, but to also receive all the latest tips and how-to’s straight to your inbox. Then, for more info on how to take care of your plant, check out my post, Christmas Cactus Plant Care!

Happy Digging!

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